Chapter 1 of
HOW TO EUROPE
The Complete Travelers Handbook
Internet edition.
All photographs by the author.
A page from
Enjoy-Europe.com
by
John Bermont
You can't swim in a car pool.
AN ALMOST FATAL MISTAKE
Transfer To The Netherlands
My boss walked into my office one fine California morning in 1975
and asked how I would like a
transfer to the company's office in The Netherlands. This doesn't happen every day.
I begged for some time and after
a few days of thinking it over I decided what the heck and
accepted. A few weeks later I landed on a chilly drizzly October morning
at Amsterdam's Schiphol airport to begin a two year adventure in
Europe, though I was lucky to live through the first month.
Just a Leaf
Shortly after arriving, I borrowed a friend's car to run
some errands. While driving on a narrow street, another car
suddenly came speeding from the opposite direction. The Dutch
driver flashed his lights and honked his horn but continued to race
ahead as if I was just a leaf on the pavement. He seemed eager for
the inevitable head-on collision, and was probably cussing as loud as I
was but we couldn't hear each other.
My only escape was to jump the curb and drive across
someone's front lawn. Then I circled the block to see what, if
anything, I had done wrong. The only visible sign at the street
where I turned in was a round red board with a white band across
it. That was something I had never seen before. Later, a Dutch
neighbor explained that this road sign means "Do Not Enter —
Wrong Way." It's always posted at the exit end of one-way streets.
A similar sign is now used in the United States on expressway exit
ramps, with the wording which is never on the European signs. Heck, even
if the sign had the wording I couldn't read it anyway so soon after arriving.
GENESIS OF A BOOK
Living and Working in Holland
Within a few weeks I had found an apartment and started to
settle in. I made the short drive to the office every day, by car
or bike. Though it was the same work I had done in California, the
office environment and worker attitude were totally different.
After work was much different also. Being single, I didn't
have much in common with most of the Americans in Holland. Most of
them had families and socialized through the American Women's Club.
My life was almost entirely among the Dutch and I got to know them
quite well. That was especially true of the friendly crowd who
habitated a bar we called the Proef, strategically located around the corner
from my apartment in Haarlem. I was the "Yank" — a name the Dutch
affectionately use for Americans.
Shipping my car over turned out to be an excellent move. I
put it to good use on the roads all over northern Europe. Drives up
to Stockholm, over to the former East German border, down to the
Italian Riviera, and many areas in between were covered on weekend
and one-week trips. I learned how to drive in Paris like a local,
drive 120 mph on the German Autobahnen (expressways), and
maneuver around Sunday strollers on rural roads.
This was my first home in Europe — in the city of
Haarlem, The Netherlands, about 17 minutes from the heart of
Amsterdam. For two years I lived in the ground floor apartment of
the house on the right at the corner of the river Spaarne and the canal
Bakenessergracht. Most of the buildings
in this neighborhood are about 300 years old. The Teylers Museum, the oldest museum
in The Netherlands, is the building with the wings on top.
The Sint Bavokerk, also
known as the Grote Kerk, (Big Church) rises above the city.
This counter-weighted lift bridge, the Gravestenenbrug, is
attended full time during working hours and is raised dozens of
times a day to let boats pass up and down the Spaarne. Swans love all the
rivers and canals in Holland, and here are five of them on an afternoon cruise.
[0117]
Returning for Adventure
After two years in Holland I went back to California but it
wasn't long before I started to regret leaving Europe. I decided to
return, but this time strictly as a traveler. I was still single
and had saved enough money to take some time off from the usual
work routine.
To get ready for the return trip, I quit my job and spent
two months in full-time preparation. While sorting through most of
the popular guidebooks, plus a library of books, pamphlets, and
maps accumulated while living in Holland, it appeared that a new
book would be helpful. For example, up until 2006 you could not find
a description, much less a reasonable illustration, of the "Do Not
Enter" sign in any European guidebook. The only popular book in which you can
find it also plagiarizes a lot of other material from How To Europe. I guess he
knows a good thing when he sees it.
The round red one with
the white belt is "Do Not Enter." Learn more about the rest of
those important round signs in chapter 18,
Driving in Europe. Seeing as how this is
Amsterdam, a city with one of the finest public transportation
systems and most confusing driving conditions on the whole planet
earth, just don't drive here, unless you can read those little
white boards with other qualifiers written in good crisp Dutch
while a taxi snooks up your tailpipe and two bicycles brush you on
the right as a pedestrian and dog step out in front of you on the
left. If you feel lucky enough to drive in A'dam you should take a
taxi to the casino where all you can lose is your cash and not your
life.
[0115]
My nearly fatal mistake on the one-way street was only
one of many "dumb foreigner" blunders I made in Europe. Each cost me time,
cash, or grief, or all of the above. Sometimes the local citizens
were not very amused. Many things are different over there and I
had to learn it all the hard way. As I learned the ropes, it became
apparent that other Americans on their first trip were just as
confounded by the mores of Europe as I was when I arrived.
Many guide books present little
more than superficial facts, presume a reader's familiarity with
the new surroundings, sometimes copy mistakes and overstatements
from each other, and are usually wordy and flowery galore. How
To Europe would serve as an introduction to the art of travel through the
multi-culture of Europe, spiced with personal anecdotes to enhance
an understanding of the new adventures travelers will experience on
their first trip to Europe.
So a year after leaving Europe I returned with a notebook, a camera, and a
three-month EurailPass. I covered most of Europe in almost constant
travel, from Bordeaux in western France to Vienna in eastern Austria to
Narvik in the north of Norway.
Then I spent an additional three months visiting and studying in
Amsterdam, Paris, and London. After another three-week refresher
trip through nine countries in 1981, I published the first edition
of How To Europe the following spring.
The book reviews were very nice.
American Library Association's Booklist said ". . . outstandingly practical
. . ."
The Los Angeles Times said ". . . exceedingly complete . . ."
The International Travel News, the best
travel journal there is, said "Bermont has a knack for picking out
and clarifying the things that usually baffle American visitors."
Many others echoed the same sentiments.
The following year I was back again hitting the four
corners of then Western Europe — Helsinki, Finland to Dublin, Ireland to
Lisbon, Porugal to Athens, Greece — crisscrossing by train and boat for ten weeks ending
in early 1984. The second edition went to press later that year and
sold out three printings in three years.
The Changing Times
Europe has undergone incredible changes in
some aspects over the past three decades, but most things are still
the same. The things that are still the same are the artifacts and natural wonders that people
have always gone to Europe for, and always will.
Eastern Europe: The most significant change is the
fact that the Berlin Wall is down and the communist dictatorships
are gone. We are now free to travel in most of what was once a huge
prison, the so-called Peoples Democratic Republics. There are still
a few of these bastardizations left in other parts of the world but
Europe is rid of them, with the possible exception of Russia and a couple
of its friends.
Uh oh, they saw my camera. This
couple with their pet grizzly came quickly to get a donation. We
were stuck in traffic in Constanta, Romania but got moving before
the bear paws reached us.
[0104]
New Technology:
The technological revolution
of the 1990s has helped Europe immensely. It has brought the
archaic telecommunications systems up to and above the quality we
enjoy in the USA. The caliber of transportation — plane,
train, and auto — has improved dramatically. Unfortunately so
has the frequency of traffic jams and overcrowded trains.
Living in France, Germany, and Switzerland
I've also changed. I
moved to Paris in the summer of 1986 to study French and to work on
the third edition. There I met Elizabeth and amour, which
lasted about 10 years. Our daughter Stephanie was born in late 1987.
Then, the company I worked for transferred us to Germany in 1991 for
a three year period. Taking advantage of the new freedoms in the east
I drove throughout eastern Europe, going into Ukraine twice. We
finished up the German experience with a one month drive as far as
Istanbul, returning back to Germany via Bulgaria, Romania, Poland,
and several other countries. My most recent trip in January 2006 included
travels by bus through Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania, and Poland, all of which
were former captives of the commies in Moscow. This internet edition
will get you up to speed on travel in the former "Evil Empire."
Europe's New Money:The euro is the new currency of
15 nations and a few tiny principalities in Europe. This is a momentous step for Europe, and a great benefit
to travelers. No longer do we need to exchange money every time we
cross the borders of many countries in Europe. How sweet it is. There are
still more than 30 other countries in Europe which have their individual currencies, though
the euro is legal in some of these.
Unmovable Artifacts: But for the most part the
character and charm of old Europe remains — the monuments are
still where they have been for hundreds of years. Notre Dame
Cathedral plus a thousand monuments and museums have not moved a
millimeter, and won't. You do not need this year's date on the cover of your guidebook.
WHAT IS THIS BOOK?
Most people think of travel books as guidebooks. Au
contraire, mon ami, for How To Europe is not really a travel
guidebook. This means that it is not a catalog of hotels,
restaurants, and sights, telling you what is "comfortable" or
"cheap" or "charming" or whatever. There are many good and many not so
good guidebooks doing this already. You'll find recommendations and cautions
for buying guidebooks in chapter 10,
Guidebooks, Maps, Dictionaries.
A Travelers Handbook
Rather than a specific guidebook, How To Europe is a
general and practical handbook for Americans planning a
do-it-yourself trip to
Europe. It is essential reading for first-time travelers and will
probably enlighten and amuse even experienced Europhiles. I've
received letters from native Europeans telling me how much they
learned from this book. Other much better known travel
writers have told me how much they like this book. Some of them
have even copied from it. Among my advantages as a travel writer
are that I have lived in four countries in Europe, speak some of
the languages, have European relatives and friends whom I visit,
and have traveled just about everywhere and by any means.
How To Europe is zero-base. This means it does not
presume that you know how to drive on a German expressway, use a
French telephone, get service in a Dutch restaurant, find a hotel
in Ukraine, or board an Italian train. Amongst many other
things, what it does do is show you how to find the best values in
any city in Europe without guiding you and a thousand other
Americans to the same cheap hotels and restaurants. You'll learn
how to travel like a European, thus getting the most from your time
and money while dodging the travel gremlins.
At least as important as anything, How To Europe teaches
you how to avoid becoming another victim of the ever-present
pickpockets and baggage thieves operating throughout Europe.
Thieves are concentrated in the major cities and resort areas, but
can strike anywhere and anytime. This ubiquitous army of villains,
usually not native to the locale, can mess up your trip — very
seriously. Security should always be on your mind. See the first
section of chapter 8, "Cash, Check, and Credit Card."
Photos To Learn By
Together with the captions, the photographs explain many of
the mundane but essential points of life in Europe, those things
that differ from our upbringing in America. Reviewers of the first
two editions have especially noted the uniqueness and value of these photos.
And for flattery, after teaching another travel writer how to take photos he has copied many
of mine in his own books. My travel photography tips are at chapter 12,
Photography in Europe.
I took all of the pictures in the book and on this web site, except for a few as noted
or as obvious. Most of the chapters available on line do not include the photos
because of the size of the files. A single photo has about
the same file size as the text of a complete chapter. Also, if you order the
complete book at
Amazon.com please be aware that the photos in the book are all black and
white. Some of the photos in this internet edition are in color and are different, and there are
a number of text differences in the two editions.
The Fifth Arrondissement (fifth ward) of Paris welcomes visitors with
this street side map locating hotels and sights. The bulls eye is
accompanied by the words vous etes ici (you are here). My
Paris apartment was just a tad southeast of the bull's eye on rue des Trois
Portes, 200 yards from the back door of Notre Dame Cathedral.
Check the inset "Paris V" to see where you are in the city
— I should say THE City.
[0108]
Really Straight Talk
Here and there I recommend some
products, publications, and services, and offer a few words of
caution about other things which did not measure up. I
paid retail for everything in my travels and received no payment or other
consideration for any comment in this book. I mention this because
virtually all travel writers accept free air travel, ground
transportation, hotels, and/or meals from companies in the travel
business. That is why you rarely, if ever, read a travel article
with the least bit of criticism of anything. Those who bite the
golden hand are not invited to eat again. I didn't take any
freebees so I can tell it like it is.
I have been to every place I've discussed in this book. I
did not hire others to "research" or write this book or take the
photos. If you see a book with a famous author's name on the cover
— it is marketing bull. Most of the popular guide books these
days are written by hired writers for politically perfect
corporations. The travel writers are paid to travel.
I pay to travel, on my own tight budget.
From the Algarve to the east side of Ukraine, Iceland to
Istanbul, Narvik to Naples, I've traveled the rails and roads
throughout Europe. I've slept in hotels deluxe and on deck chairs,
dined in gourmet restaurants and picnicked on park benches, and
walked the boulevards and back alleys of cities big to small. I was
lost and found, rained on, frozen, sun burnt, insulted,
complimented, ripped off, embraced, and scorned. How To Europe
gives it to you straight, no matter what your schedule, budget, or
attitude.
EUROPE, WHY NOT?
Why go to Europe? Curiosity, culture, entertainment,
sports, adventure, relatives, roots, education, business, a job,
diet, or just plain fun may entice you. If you haven't made the
decision yet, the holdup is probably due to one of three things:
money, time, or timidity.
Can't Afford It?
A major problem is the high cost. Travel is expensive. But
some things are cheaper in Europe, most are negotiable, and airline
and hotel bargains can be found with diligent searching. Despite
the high cost of travel, you can budget accurately with the
information presented in chapter 2, "On Budget in Europe." The key to low cost
travel is up-front smarts and cautious shopping. Do a little home
budget swapping to tide you over. You might want to postpone buying
a new car to put some European flavor in your life.
Don't Have Time?
Another problem for most of us is lack of time. A standard
American corporate vacation of two or three weeks is hardly enough to see
one country, much less the four dozen or so in Europe. Request an extra
four or five weeks of unpaid leave from your job and go on your
own. A longer tour will enable you to get your feet on the ground
and wander off the trampled tourist trail. By the way, Europeans
are horrified when you tell them that you are allowed a two week
vacation. In most of Europe the standard vacation is four to six
weeks. Some companies even pay their employees for a "13th month" so
they have enough money to enjoy themselves on vacation.
A couple of
celebrants brandish their beers at the annual Koninginnedag, (Queen's Day) festival
in Amsterdam, The Netherlands. I kept pace. What a beautiful day.
If you suffer from ochlophobia stay out of Amsterdam on April 30.
[0109]
Afraid of All Those Foreigners?
Aside from the limitations of time and money, many
Americans are afraid to go. The adventure of travel is not always
fun. On the road, aggravations often outnumber the laughs. Travel
is not always relaxing. It can be tiresome visiting strange places
with different languages, money, customs, food, and poor service.
Why leave the security and comfort of home to find yourself lost in
France in the rain? Look at this from another perspective: your
nest is just another place on our earth and those strangers are
just as human as you and your home town neighbors.
If you really do find yourself in trouble over there, help
is readily available and it usually comes with a bigger heart
because you are a foreigner. Just ask. Women, of course, must be a
little more careful than men. For encouragement and advice, ladies
should consult the books of Mesdames
Georgia Hesse,
Louise Purwin Zobel, and
Eleanor Adams Baxel.
Some of these books are decades old but the advice is timeless.
And after reading How To Europe you should have as much
confidence in visiting Europe as you have in going to your corner
grocery store.
The Terror
The unspeakable monstrosity which struck America and
civilization on 9/11 cannot be ignored by those planning a trip, or
even by those going to work every day. Many more innocent people were
killed at their desks than were killed on the planes that day. A new and brutal war without
limits or front lines is all around us. It is just beginning. The
enemy is well organized, financed, and concealed. The head of the
evil is at large. When that head is cut off another will take its
place.
I personally experienced the effects of terror years ago.
My first edition published in 1982 and all subsequent editions are
dedicated to an early victim of a terrorist bombing. She is Annette
Kampinga. She was murdered on December 31, 1980 in Nairobi, Kenya.
The coward who killed her and 15 other people placed a bomb in his
closet at the Norfolk Hotel and then flew off to Malta and then on
to Saudi Arabia without checking out of his room. The time bomb
exploded just above the ballroom as the New Year's Eve party was
getting underway.
Closer to my own body, I was evacuated from Los Angeles
International Airport along with hundreds of others when someone
phoned in a bomb threat. I flew to Amsterdam and traveled on to
Paris just a few days after President Reagan bombed Libya in April
1986. While living in Paris that summer I was walking past the
Hôtel Dieu in the center of the city. Suddenly a police car zipped
around the corner and almost rolled. A few blocks further I happened
on a building with all of the windows on the 4th floor blown out.
Cops were everwhere later on. The story I read was that the bomb
went off in a men's room of what is the French equivalent of the FBI.
The assistant director was killed.
In following days other bombs were set off around Paris. One was
in the post office of the Hôtel Dieu, a small post office I used
often. Some people were murdered in that bombing. Patrols were everywhere.
In all train stations 3 man squads armed with carbines marched continuously
through the crowds. This was deadly serious business. I flew into
Frankfurt in January 1991, a few days before the
Gulf War started and flew out a week later on PanAm while the other
five in our group jumped ship and thought they would be safer on
Lufthansa. I was in Al Khobar, Saudi Arabia in July 1996 on the
night that a terrorist gang blew up the Khobar Towers and murdered
19 American servicemen. That bomb went off a couple of miles from
my apartment with effects remarkably similar to those of the Oklahoma City
bombing. The truth on the Al Khobar sneak attack is still concealed, though
Osama bin Laden was the mastermind whispered about at the American
Consulate when I made my regular Friday visit to the library.
On the other hand, one of my brothers was murdered in
Chicago. He stopped his taxi for the wrong "customer" who
immediately shot him. The Chicago cops supposedly know who did it
but never arrested anybody.
The point is that you never know when or where or how your
Maker is going to call you back. Look at the situation in our
schools. Vulnerable teachers and students are killed in their classrooms every
year. This is murder and mayhem and a violation of citizens rights,
but typically the only rights being respected are those of the mad
dogs who do the crime, even when they are filmed in the act and
caught with blood on their hands. It is actually more dangerous being in school
than flying on a plane in the USA.
Have no fear, but be alert and ready for action. Those
people on the "shoe bomber" flight from Paris saved themselves.
Perhaps, some day, so must you.
Security is tight and causes delays in airports. You are
advised to get to the airport early. I arrived at Los Angeles
airport in January 2002 before the Northwest Airlines people opened
check-in. After checking in I went to security and they were still
closed. I had to wait a half hour till 5:00 am to get clearance to
enter the boarding area. I found a place to plug in my laptop and
get to work on this book for a few hours. If you're not writing a book,
bring one and relax.
Security personnel at Amsterdam's Schiphol Airport have been giving me
a final pat down in the departure lounge since the mid 1990s. This is after
x-rays and electronic checks. I guess that a single guy traveling light
is high on the profile list.
The bottom line on mass murder by terror is that it can and
probably will happen again. But the odds are that it will not happen
to you if you fly every day for the next 50 years. Let your Maker
select your inevitable last day. You enjoy your life while you have
it. Don't let the bastards get you down.
You Are Already Too Thin?
My last reason for not going to Europe is not especially
profound. If you've watched the
evening news at all for the past few years you certainly have heard
about the French paradoxes. One has to do with their extraordinary
consumption of wine and their less than (American) average
incidence of heart disease. The other has to do with their dietary
intake of beautiful rich foods — lamb, duck, paté,
cheeses — with their inverse correlation to the American
waistline. You rarely see fat French people. So, if you don't want
to lose weight, don't go on a one-month French restaurant crawl.
Especially, I encourage everyone to stay out of Bourgogne
(Burgundy), one of the least touristed regions of France and my
favorite for food and wine.
The crew of this hostel information stand in the Krakow, Poland train
station will find you a low cost bed for the night. They were very helpful to me.
It was a cold January morning and the station is not heated, but these dedicated
people tolerated the deep freeze with a smile. Krakow is a city you must visit.
[P1200192]
WHEN AND WHERE
In Season
Americans traditionally travel in the summer. That's
equally true in Europe. Northern Europeans head for the sand, sea, and
sun around the Mediterranean in July and August. Many also take
winter holidays, skiing in the Alps and other cold climes.
Out of Season
Those who have the opportunity to travel off-season are
lucky. You can travel more economically and in far less crowded
circumstances with a spring trip. Air fares are drastically lower
off-season, and the roads and trains are noticeably less crowded.
Off-season is anytime other than July and August and the holiday
periods around Christmas and Easter. April through June is the best
off-season travel period. On my 30 day trip in January 2006 the
trains were nearly empty except for rush hour and I found myself
alone in hostel rooms with up to a dozen empty beds.
The obvious feature of off-season travel is that it is
cooler in the south and colder in the north. The opposite is true
of in-season travel, since it can get uncomfortably hot and humid
in southern Europe during the summer. Spring is the driest time of
year in northern Europe. You are less likely to get rained on in
April and May, and the length of daylight is about the same as in
July and August.
A significant problem when traveling in the fall is that
hotel space may be scarce or impossible to find in major cities. This is caused by
the plethora of trade shows and business conventions in
the big cities. These are known as fairs and congresses
to most Europeans. If you have a chance go to one. These
exhibitions feature everything from French cuisine to hazardous
waste treatment, and many are open to the public, not just to those
in the trade.
All the Seasons
Those with a transportable profession can enjoy Europe
throughout the year, and have someone else pay the bill. Just get
a job in Europe. I've lived and worked in The Netherlands and
Germany. Not only do you get a salary boost but there can be other
financial rewards as well, depending on your employer. See more
about this in chapter 22 part 1,
Moving to Europe and chapter 22 part 2,
Working in Europe.
Tivoli is an amusement park in Copenhagen, Denmark, right across the street from the railway station.
It is great for kids and adults of all ages and not as stodgy or as expensive as another famous place
which seems to have copied some of its designs, and added a talking
mouse. Enjoy Tivoli Garden from mid spring to the end of fall, though exact dates
vary from year to year. It also has a Christmas season from mid November to the end of the year.
[p1110128]
Special Events
Your interest in special events may dictate your timing.
Oktoberfest, for instance, is held in late September in Munich. The
tulips bloom at Keukenhof, Holland, in early spring, weather
permitting. These and other events can live with you for life.
Where is the best place to go?
Friends and students are always asking me which place in
Europe I like the most. My preferences would be of little value to
anyone else. These places are mostly associated with memories of
the people I met there, whether locals or other travelers.
Pick your own pleasure. Prepare thoroughly for your travels
using the general and specific information in this book, as well as
other books discussed in chapter 10,
Guidebooks, Maps, Dictionaries. Make your own
itinerary based on your lifestyle and preferences. Chapter 30,
Melding with Europe,
presents an overview of the kinds of activities that are possible,
although I don't pretend to list everything. Nobody can prescribe
a universal list of all the "good stuff" or "the best." Chapter 30 is just a peek at the
menu. You must make your own selections.
HOW TO GO
Should you travel alone, with a friend, or with a group?
Each way has its advantages.
Solo
When single I usually traveled alone. Now that I am single again I travel alone
again. This offers the best
opportunities for meeting local citizens and other travelers.
Getting in a train compartment or sitting at a table on a ship, I
would tell the others "Sorry, I only speak English." At least half
the time, this would result in a non-stop conversation with a local
citizen that lasted until one of us got off the train, or the boat
docked, or one of us fell asleep. Sometimes I would practice my French or German or Dutch,
depending on the situation. If I happened to meet another vagabond or two
from some spot on the planet we would sometimes team up for a couple of days.
These are great experiences. You're never alone unless you want to be.
When traveling with a EurailPass in first class, you are
likely to meet educated Europeans and other travelers from the
United States, Canada, Australia, South America, Japan, and China.
It is even easier to meet others on the overnight ferries between
Ireland and France, between Greece and Italy, between Sweden and
Finland, and others. Seating in the
bars and restaurants is crowded, and you'll have a lot of spare
time. Only a hermit could avoid meeting someone on board. Travelers
have a great deal in common, develop camaraderie, and help each
other with tips on hotels, cafes, sights, and rip-offs.
You don't have to be a man to travel alone. I've met
American and Australian college girls, and even a few ladies in
their sixties, on their own, all over Europe. At the Romanian
border leaving Bulgaria we met a young French woman traveling in
a Citroën 2CV with her dog. That's adventure in a tin can, the
auto known as the "duck." 2CV was pronounced "dough-che-vo" in Holland.
They are probably all in junkyards or museums by now.
Use
a coin or a card. The German phone on the left accepts coins. The
one on the right accepts telephone cards. This picture reminds me
of a study done by a sociology professor at the University of
Aachen, Germany. On side by side phones he put a "Nur Herren" (men
only) sign on one and a "Nur Frauen" (women only) sign on the
other. A couple dozen people used the phones while he and his class
observed at a distance. All the men used the men's phone and all
the women used the women's phone, with one exceptional exception.
They rushed over to interview the woman to discover why she had
shown contempt for the German obsession with obedience. She was
French. You might think that maybe she couldn't read German, but
that is unlikely. More likely she proudly displayed the French
addiction to disobedience, especially regarding anything that is
not French. Viva la France!
[0105]
With Friends
Traveling with a friend, or friends, requires compromises
from each. Preferred itineraries must be agreed on, and it sure
helps if everybody is on the same general budget. Being with a
small group puts you in a better bargaining position when
negotiating the room price with a hotel keeper, and gives each a
bit more courage walking the streets at night. Another advantage of
traveling in company is that the hotel rooms are better. You get a
lot more comfort at a lower per person cost in a double room.
Family With or Without Child
When I was married, most of my traveling was with
Elizabeth, and often with our daughter Stephanie in the car or on
the train. Family people will recognize the pilot/navigator
scenario with nearly constant back-seat commentary "Are we there
yet?" until the little one falls asleep. The extra hotel cost is
usually none or negligible, though a soft drink for the
kid normally costs more than a glass of beer or wine.
Excess baggage in the extreme was a problem when traveling
on the trains and negotiating the train stations with two-year old
Stephanie. A kid of that age has more luggage than two adults.
Families have the option of parking the kid(s) with a relative so
mom and dad can have a vacation on their own.
Package Group Tours
It can be a lot of work traveling on your own.
Do-it-yourselfers make many decisions every day. If you choose to
travel with a group on an organized tour, you'll find that tour
directors do most of the work and make most of the decisions for
you. Group tours usually include hotels, air and ground
transportation, guided sightseeing excursions, many meals, and time
off for independent side trips.
Advertised tour prices are always per person, double occupancy.
Solo travelers pay a "single supplement." Tours are ideal for the
timid, for those who do not have time or inclination for detailed
travel planning, and for those who would rather sit back, enjoy the
sights, and leave all the routine details in the hands of
experienced tour managers.
I scoff at package group tours for anyone except the
physically handicapped. Tours are overpriced, rigid in schedule,
and full of Americans looking out the bus window. Anybody who has
graduated from high school can travel independently in Europe,
especially after reading How To Europe.
Traveling off-season in May I was probably the
only guest in this Biarritz, France hotel. This economical, clean,
and comfortable little hotel is way up the hill from the city, and
that is a hike. In compensation, there is a great little Basque restaurant a few blocks away.
[0110]
THE COST OF TRAVEL
Prices of products and services are mentioned on a very
limited basis in this book. How To Europe is designed to be valid
for several years into the future. Therefore only indicative prices are given for a few
representative items. Remember that most books which include prices are in error before they
are printed, which is many many months before you get your hands on
them. The "2008" editions of some popular travel books were in the bookstores in
August of 2007, supposedly "updated" with information from six months ago.
By the time you travel in the summer of 2008 the information is already 12 to 15 months out of date.
For other sins of travel writers and the guidebook industry see chapter 10,
Guidebooks, Maps, Dictionaries.
In chapter 2, "On Budget in Europe," you'll learn how to make
a detailed budget for your travels. First, here are
some general notes to keep in mind.
Prices
In virtually any major city you can find meals for $5 or $500.
The same goes for sleeps, but with a floor price of about $20. Be a frugal traveler,
but don't pick the
cheapest places to bunk in. Select what appears to be clean and
amenable. Pass it up if the price is not right. For hotels,
negotiate — always. See the detailed discussion on
negotiating for a hotel room in chapter 14, "Hotel, Hostel, B&B, Private Home; Sleep
Options for Travel in Europe." You can save 20% to 50% at almost
any hotel with any number of stars almost every night almost
anywhere no matter what your budget and no matter how expensive the
hotel. My negotiating strategy has nothing to do with the fact that
I wrote a travel book since I travel under my real name, not mentioning
my nom de plume "John Bermont" or anything about this book, except
sometimes on check-out if I need some additional information.
This beautiful walk street in Salzburg,
Austria, can turn your clock back a few decades. Parking within
reach of the No Parking sign (blue and round with a red slash) is
a common European pastime. The other sign prohibits entry to
bicycles and mopeds. [0102]
Inflation
Another reason prices are not given in How To Europe is
that dirty "I" word — inflation. As we all know, prices are
always changing, usually up. In some European countries inflation
is higher than in America. In others it is less.
However, the inflation rate for the overall economy does
not translate equally to the inflation rate for the discretionary
economy. Travel services are cyclic in demand, but fixed in supply.
They don't haul extra hotel rooms into Paris when tourist season
starts. Small changes in demand can move the price dramatically.
Big changes in demand, for instance between off season and in
season, can change prices by an order of magnitude. Nothing
demonstrates this better than the price of flying to Europe.
Compare a ticket in February to one in May to one in July.
In the chapters dealing with air travel, hotels, and
dining, I present tried and true strategies for reducing your
outlay regardless of your budget. You might think it cheesy to
negotiate and/or shop around over these things, but just call it a
game for profit because you can save beaucoup bucks. Depending on
your situation you can save enough for a tea kettle or a new
Porsche.
Dollar Exchange Rate
Another cost factor in the travel equation is the value of
the dollar. Currency exchange rates change continuously. The dollar
may be worth more or less in European currencies at the time of your
travels. The dollar dipped to record lows in 1978. For a number of
years it was on a strong upward trend. It set record highs against
many European currencies in 1985. Then by the mid-1990's the dollar
fell well below its levels of ten years prior.
After a nice 40% bounce upward in 2002 the dollar began to sink
again. As of the close of 2004, the dollar had ended its
upward trend, given up all of its gains of 2002, and plunged to new
lows versus the euro. Throughout most of 2005 the dollar had been a rising star,
up about 15% as of late November. Then it started falling gradually until
mid April 2006 when it suddenly fell off the cliff. As of winter 2008 it is still deep in the dumps.
What this means to travelers is that a hotel room priced at €60
costs about $90 in early 2008 whereas a few years ago a €60 room was only $50.
The difference is an 80% increase in terms of dollars. Where the dollar
goes from here can only be determined with tomorrow's newspaper
— something like the weather.
There is much more about money in chapter 8. The euro is
the new currency of the European Union, most of the members that
is. The euro symbol is €. Other major currencies of Europe are the British
pound and the Swiss Frank. For current exchange rates see
Exchange Rates, Euro
and Other Currencies.
GET READY
"If it wasn't for the last minute, a lot of things wouldn't
get done." But a successful and favorably memorable trip requires
careful preparation. You are better off planning far ahead and
using that last minute to eat the last good hamburger you will have
until you get home.
Your Schedule
There are many things to do before you go. The first is to
make a planning schedule, notwithstanding the old adage about the
plans of mice and men. This assures that you will get everything
done without a last-minute panic. The earlier you begin, the easier
it will be. Two months of preparation is appropriate, but six
months would not be out of order for a long journey. If you wait
until the last minute you will have to hurry and be faced with the
old Dutch adage: "The hurrier you go the behinder you get."
For a planning schedule, a large wall calendar, self-made
on drafting paper, the back of shelf liner, or any large sheet of
plain paper will do. A square of about 2" by 2" for each day, plus
a six-inch wide margin for each week for additional notes will
suffice. Or use a calendar desk pad, available at stationery
stores. Keep it in a conspicuous place as a daily reminder.
Lists
Next, begin your check lists. A long piece of adding
machine paper is ideal. Have at least three lists: "Things to do
before leaving," "Things to buy before leaving," and "Packing
list." Carry these lists in your pocket, reviewing them daily,
scratching off items as they are done, and adding new items which
come to mind. Review chapter 5
What to Wear in Europe and chapter 6
A Packing List for Europe
to get you started. A summary packing
list is presented in the appendix, "Last Call," not on line yet.
Additional lists such as "Things to buy in Europe" and
"Things to do and see in Europe" can be made as you study
guidebooks and tourist brochures and talk to other travelers.
The first thing on your list should be "Get a passport." That should also be
the first one you cross off. Due to new travel regulations imposed by Congress
the State Department fell way behind in issuing passports in early 2007. Nobody
knows when the backlog will clear out, but rumor has it that the government is almost
up to its normal slow behavior as of early 2008. Go to your local post office and get an
application right now. It can take up to three months with normal processing.
The process can be expedited to a week or so if you pay a heavy fee.
GENERAL NOTES
Redundancies
Because of the relationship between several topics in the
book and my objective of making every chapter as complete as
possible on the subject at hand, there are some redundancies in the
book. These second looks are not long and usually concern items
like the Michelin, Lonely Planet, and Thomas Cook rail publications, and
The International Travel News, a ridiculously inexpensive
and extremely informative monthly magazine on newsprint.
These should be emphasized anyway.
Terminology
For brevity, throughout the book, certain areas of Europe
are referred to without listing each of the countries to which a
comment is applicable. The conventional and created terms used
throughout the book are:
The Continent: all of Western Europe excluding
Ireland and Great Britain.
The Islands: Ireland and Great Britain.
Scandinavia: Denmark, Norway, Sweden, Iceland, and
Finland.
Iberia: Portugal and Spain.
The Mediterranean countries: Portugal, Spain, Italy,
Greece, Cyprus, and Malta.
The Eastern countries: All of those formerly under
communist domination. The names have changed and some have broken
up into pieces. As of this writing, the names are Russia, Ukraine,
Belarus, Moldavia, Romania, Bulgaria, Albania, Macedonia,
Yugoslavia (which prefers to call itself Serbia and Montenegro),
Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Slovenia, Hungary, Czech Republic,
Slovakia, Poland, Lithuania, Latvia, and Estonia. Former East
Germany is not necessarily in this group. It received special
privileges from former West Germany which has brought it into the
modern world much faster than the others from the former Soviet
Bloc. I first visited a dreary Dresden in 1992 and then had the privilege
of seeing the rejuvenated city in 2006. It was much improved, and probably has
the best tram system in Europe. Some people in the
"eastern" countries prefer to say they are in
"central" Europe. Technically they are correct. The center of my
National Geographic map of Europe is in southeastern Poland. But,
for the time being, Eastern Europe is still that part of Europe
formerly known as "peoples democratic republics" — the
countries from which citizens used to risk their lives fleeing. I
know one man who made it out alive. Many others were shot in the
back.
Of course, Portugal does not front the Mediterranean, but
France does, and some people do not consider Finland to be part of
Scandinavia. But these six groupings indicate convenient
demarcations in customs, food, weather, and the general character
of the peoples. Examples will be seen throughout the book.
A small piece of Turkey lies in Europe. This is a good
enough reason to go to Istanbul, truly a fascinating city that you
don't want to miss in this life.
The dining car crew consented to pose with a smile
during my 21 hour rail journey across the Ukraine.
[0116]
Spellings and Speaking
There is no consistency in this book on spellings of cities
and places. This is deliberate because there is no consistency anywhere
on spellings and pronunciations. You have to stay loose and get a smell for things
— like Corinth and Korinthe, Munich and München,
Göteborg and Gothenburg, Basel and Bâle, and scores of
other places with two or more names. If you try to buy a train ticket to
Orleans when you are in France be prepared for a blank stare. The French
pronounciation is something like Oh-lee-ohn. Tip: write it down. "Orleans, 2nd class,
time of departure, number of persons."
Generally, foreign words are italicized in this book
with the American translation in (parentheses) right next to it. I
say American translation, not English, because there are some
dialectical differences between American and British "English." See
more on this subject in chapter 26
Languages, Numbers, Alphabets: Encounter the Tower of Babel in Europe.
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