The original do-it-yourself travel guide to Europe SM

Europe's Night Trains
City to City As You Sleep

Couchettes, hotel trains, reservations, sleeping in your seat, luggage on board,
bathrooms, security, breakfast, rail station facilities, luggage lockers.


Chapter 17, Part 3 of
HOW TO EUROPE
The Complete Travelers Handbook
Internet edition. By John Bermont.
Photos by the author except as noted.

John Bermont
A page from
enjoy-europe.com
with photographer and author John Bermont.

Sign board on the night train Hans Christian Anderson from Munich, Germany to Copenhagen, Denmark. http://www.enjoy-europe.com/hte/chap17/p1110113.jpg The "Hans Christian Andersen" could only be going to one city, though it stops in plenty of others along the way. This is the signboard on a car of the DB NachtZug (Night Train) NZ/EN 482 from München (Munich) to København (Copenhagen). I boarded in Fulda, Germany a little before midnight, had a fine sleep in a couchette, was served a free breakfast in my compartment, and arrived well rested in downtown Copenhagen at 9:59 in the morning. It kind of makes you feel like royalty. The NZ/EN 482 designation in the train number means NachtZug/EuroNight number 482. [p1110113]

SLEEPING ON NIGHT TRAINS

Night train service has been reduced over the years thanks to the new high speed trains which reduce the need for it. But the night service which remains is a wonderful way to travel. You can wake up in the center of a different city every morning, rested and refreshed and ready to take on the new town.

Night trains are not for everybody. Some people cannot get to sleep on a night train. You might be uncomfortable sleeping in communal conditions or the noise and motion may keep you awake. Fortunately I have no such problems.

True, there is a risk when sleeping a few inches or feet from complete strangers who might not even speak English. There have been reports of theft on some lines. In fact Elizabth's purse was rifled on a night train from Venice to Vienna, but she had left it on the luggage rack in plain sight. She could have put a sign on it saying "Here, steal me!" I sleep on my valuables. Doors on modern train compartments are all equipped with locks, sometimes two locks. Some use a plastic slot key so you can lock up when you leave the compartment.

Noise and motion bother some peole but for others it is like being in a rocking crib. I am in the latter group. I find the "white noise" of moving trains very conducive to sleep. To help doze off I always board with a sandwich and a bottle of wine. You can buy these either in the station or in shops near the station. Bring a corkscrew. If your compartment does not have a toilet keep the empty bottle and cork handy for a late night pee so you don't need to go to the W.C. at the end of the rail car.

You have three sleep options on trains. You can sleep in a regular or recliner seat, sleep in a couchette bunk, or sleep in a mini hotel style room complete with a full bathroom.

Sleep in Your Seat

When I was younger I didn't use sleeping berths in western Europe since I was always able to stretch out in a first class compartment for a reasonable night's sleep, even with five other people in the compartment. The seats can be slid out together and the armrests lifted so that the compartment becomes the equivalent of a king size bed. Everybody flops in. When fully loaded with Eurail Pass travelers it looks like a can of sardines. Pulling out the seats in a train compartment to recline for sleep. http://www.enjoy-europe.com/hte/chap17/p1070374.jpg

In my first class compartment on the InterCity from Geneva, Switzerland to Milan, Italy I could pull out the seats and form a king size bed. This is what it looks like when you pull out just one seat. There are another three seats opposite and they all come together. There is no need to sleep sitting up. [p1070374]


The major problem in the days prior to the European Union was that the train conductors and border police seemed to be continuously checking tickets and passports. In the middle of the night in the middle of nowhere they would slam the door open and turn on the light. "Your ticket? Your passport?" Nowadays this is only true when crossing into Switzerland and in and out of some of the former communist countries. Even in former communist countries which are now members of the EU the border police still inspect and stamp your passport, especially when traveling in second class. Train conductors change crews on long distance and international trains so you are subject to ticket inspection at any time of the day or night.

There is also the sometimes inconvenience of people climbing over you, or vice versa, to make for the toilet or a breath of fresh air. Everybody quickly accepts the etiquette of temporary communal living. When sleeping with a group and/or with unlocked doors, keep your wallet and passport stuffed in with your private parts, and sleep on your camera and electronic gizmos. Do not put any valuables in your luggage, day bag, or purse while on a train, or at any time for that matter.

SLEEPING COMPARTMENTS

Sleeping cars and couchette berths are offered on many long distance overnight trains. The trains are called CityNightLine, NachtZug, EuroNight, TrenHotel, and others.

When traveling with a Eurail Pass use of sleeper compartments with bunks or beds is not included in your pass. The cost is different in each country and ranges from about $25 to $45, probably averaging $35 per night depending on the value of the dollar versus the euro. You can't find a hotel for that price, and probably not even a hostel or a B&B in many countries.

In first class you have a choice of sleeper compartments with 1, 2, or 3 beds, plus a wash basin and perhaps a full toilette with a shower. These are identified as T1, T2, and T3 for the number of beds. In second class, bunk-style "couchettes" are provided. These come in T4 and T6 configurations. T-4 is sometimes offered in first class.

My first experience in an overnight couchette was over in the Ukraine. I traveled east from Kiev, sharing a compartment with three colleagues. We had a fine time, especially since a fellow traveler had brought along adequate provisions of bread, sausages, and vodka which was shared all around. Our train left about midnight and reached our destination in the eastern Ukraine at 9:30 the next evening, a 21½ hour ride. The Ukraine is a mighty big wheat field. The toilets were filthy and overflowing despite the presence of a "maid" in each car. She seemed to be glued to the chair in her cubicle. The restaurant crew was wonderful. See the picture in chapter 1, What's It All About.
Second class couchette bunks on the Corail from Paris to Hendaye, France. http://www.enjoy-europe.com/hte/chap17/p1020100.jpg



Here is half of a second class T6 (6 bunk) couchette on the Corail night train from Paris to Hendaye in far southwest France, nearly on the Spanish border. I was in a T4 traveling first class with a Eurail Pass and paid €23 for my bunk. From Hendaye I bought a ticket on the Eusko Tren to San Sebastian, Spain. That was only €1.35. [p1020100]

Reservations

You must reserve your bunk and pay the supplement fee in advance. You do this in special offices or ticket windows in the major stations. These are usually easy to find but do it early so there will be no problem in catching the train, or in finding an available bunk. When traveling vagabond style in January I would go to the reservation window every morning when I arrived in a new city and take care of business immediately. I never had a problem getting the train I wanted for that night. If you are traveling in summer this strategy could be problematic. Many night trains on the busy routes are sold out weeks and months in advance.

When making your reservation you must select a bunk or let the system do it for you. I prefer the lower bunks because I'm not too handy on ladders. If you like more privacy take the upper bunks. See the section titled Berth Notation below to help you select the location of your berth. Check your supplement receipt before leaving the window to make sure they have given you the location you want. Often they will not give you what you asked for. Then you may be told that the middle bunk is the only one available, and when you get on board you discover that you are the only person in the compartment. Now it is time to talk to the conductor or conductress and try to change to the bunk you wanted. Make sure you get an OK before taking another bunk. Just because it is empty when you get on doesn't mean that someone down the line won't get on and claim the bunk.

Find Your Sleeping Car

Boarding a sleeping car is much different than boarding a normal train on the Continent. Before you board a sleeping car you show your ticket or railpass along with your berth reservation and supplement fee receipt to a conductor on the platform. The conductor normally keeps all the paperwork and returns it to you in the morning. If the conductor doesn't return them make sure to ask for your rail pass or ticket before the train gets to your destination. If you are crossing a border or traveling on a Eurailpass you might also be asked for your passport. Normally this is returned to you immediately but sometimes the conductor will keep this also and return it to you in the morning, even if you are traveling entirely within the European Union. Old habits are hard to break.

Sleeper compartments are really nice, but tight. My experience in couchettes and sleepers has been in January when there are few travelers. I have had first class T3 and T4 compartments all to myself in most cases, but never with more than one other person. With a first class Eurail Pass you are allowed to travel in a second class T6 couchette to save money. My close call with second class was rather short term. There was a family of 6 making a bunch of noise in the next cabin. I quickly upped to first class after paying the premium.

T3 cabins have three berths going up one side of the cabin. Head room in all the berths of a T3 is sparce. A T6 has three bunks going up each side.

Berth Notation

The lowest berth is always berth 1. Above that is 3 and then 5. So e.g., in compartment 5 the lower berth would be number 51 in that compartment. Bottom bunk is also often called berth B where B stands for bas, meaning "low" in French and other romance languages. The middle berth would be 53, also called M for medio or some similar word meaning middle. The upper berth is 55 and also called A for alt or alto for "high."

T4 cabins are similar except that they have two bunks on each side of the cabin with enough aisle space to drag in a carry-on bag. Even numbers starting with 2 are on one side and odds starting at 1 on the other, e.g. 51 and 52 are both the lowest berths in compartment 5.

Luggage

Luggage is stowed under the lower bunks, on a ledge above the door, or next to the window. Clearance under the lower bunk is maybe 8" maximum. There is not much room. Six backpackers in a T6 would have a definite storage problem. There is always a coat rack with hooks or hangars. In some rail cars there is a special room near the outside door for oversized luggage, bicycles, skis, and such. Lock your stuff.
Second class car which accepts bicycles. http://www.enjoy-europe.com/hte/chap17/p1110115.jpg


Yes they do allow bicycles on night trains. It will cost extra but the cost will certainly be less than renting a car in Denmark. It will probably cost about the same as a gallon of gasoline over there.
[p1110115]

Security

Many people are concerned about security these days. If you are sound asleep on a train you might think that there is a good possibility of getting rolled and robbed. A possibility perhaps like anywhere else on the planet but not a very good possibility in a sleeper compartment. Each one that I have used has at least a knob lock and a bolt. Several have had card keys so you can lock up when you leave the cabin. There is often no need to leave the cabin since many cabins include a toilet and even a shower in first class.
The fully plumbed bathroom on an overnight Swedish train. http://www.enjoy-europe.com/hte/chap17/p1110175.jpg


This is the bathroom in the first class sleeping compartment of my overnight train from Malmo, Sweden to Oslo, Norway. It is complete with toilet, shower, towels, and hair dryer. Overnight trains are a great way to get around Europe. Keep in mind that you are paying separately for two services when you use an overnight couchette or sleeper car — the ride and the bunk. On this train my Eurailpass covered the cost of the train ride, and the compartment cost 251 Danish kroner extra. I was supposed to get a free breakfast in Oslo but nobody would tell me where to go for it. Most, but not all, overnight trains also have regular rail cars with seats and there is normally no extra charge for these. [p1110175]


Plumbing

Virtually all of my first class compartments had a basin with running water. Several had en suite toilets and even showers. Toilets in second class are at each end of the car.

Wake Up Call

Yes, they'll wake you as you get within a half hour of your destination. One of the beauties of Eurailpass is that you don't have to get off if you don't want to. I was traveling from Dresden to see friends near Frankfurt, Germany. The train was scheduled to arrive in Frankfurt at 5:30 in the morning and I couldn't see my friends until late in the day. Rather than get off into the dark icey winter morning I rolled over and slept until Düsseldorf, had a nice day in the Altstadt, and then hopped on an afternoon train back to Frankfurt.

Breakfast in Bed

Many first class overnight trains include a continental breakfast. This is usually delivered to your cabin. Sometimes you have to put on your sandals and walk to the diner car. Speaking of sandals, these are very handy on overnight trains. In fact they are very handy on all trains and in hotels, hostels, and B&Bs. I never go anywhere without my Birkenstocks. If you don't have a pair buy them when you get to Germany for half the American price. Flip-flops are OK, also.

A train composition board at Prague, Czech Republik. http://www.enjoy-europe.com/hte/chap17/p1210246.jpg
This is a small portion of the train composition board at Praha (Prague), Czech Republic. I especially like the name of Express 533, the "Budvar," one of the best beers in the world. IC is an InterCity and R is a smaller caliber Regional train. [p1210246]


ARRIVING

Getting Off

Know your route. Just after the train pulls out of the last station before your destination or connection, start getting ready to get off. Take a pit stop. Shave. Brush your hair. Powder your nose. Whatever. Gather up your belongings. Recheck around your seat and in the luggage rack. Darn, I have forgotten to check the luggage rack and have lost several items in my travels, including my favorite hat in Edinburgh. It was a beautiful black wool Fedora, very handy in drizzly weather.

Train stops are announced in some countries, but usually in the local language. On International Express class trains in Germany and Spain, train stops are also announced in French and English a few minutes before arrival. On InterCity trains in Germany, the conductors pass out a complete schedule, Ihr Zug-Begleiter (Your Guide to the Train). This shows every stop and connection. The symbol translation table is in German and in English.

To open the door on a train, you usually push a latch lever down and push the door outward. I found that the doors of trains in Spain open inward, the opposite of most countries. Sometimes a small section of the floor in front of the door folds up, revealing the steps. Some trains in Holland and Britain have push buttons for opening the door. Why doesn't every country have this?

Short Stops

Be at the door before the train comes to a stop. Train stops are typically two minutes. If the train is running late, the stops are abbreviated. Be quick and bully your way off just like the locals. There may be a crowd trying to board. If you don't get off before the first passenger pushes on, you have a chance of riding that train to the next station.

Longer Stops

Though trains normally make two minute stops in major cities they sometimes stop for 15 to 30 minutes to load and unload mail and do some car switching. You may have time to jump off and make a call or buy a paper, but this can be risky.

Our train from Budapest, Hungary to Trieste, Italy had a scheduled 15 minute stop in Zagreb, Croatia. I decided to buy sandwiches in the station because there was no food on the train. There was supposed to have been a diner car, but there wasn't and we were starving. Prior to jumping off, I walked back through the train to a car where I could get a better view of the platform and see if there was a food kiosk convenient on the platform. While looking out the window, the train started moving back toward Budapest, and picking up speed. I looked out the end window and saw the car with Elizabeth in it, but it was still standing! After some panicky shouts to an unconcerned worker on the train, the car I was in finally stopped a mile down the track. I jumped out and ran back up the tracks to the station. I still had some time. I found a bank in the station to change money, bought two sandwiches, and scampered back out to the car where Elizabeth was. It was gone! Oh my! Then, from another track on another platform, I heard Elizabeth calling me. They had moved our car to attach some more before continuing on to Italy. It took a while for my heart to resume normal speed. This orientation plan of Gare du Nord in Paris, France is keyed in French, English, and German. http://www.enjoy-europe.com/hte/chap17/p1020028.jpg

This orientation plan of the Gare du Nord in Paris, France has a legend on the left keyed in French, English, and German. You'll see all the platform numbers, station services, and streets surrounding the station. There is always a red bullseye on maps like this with the notation "Vous étes ici" which means "You are here." How could they make it easier for you? Click on the picture to see it in greater detail. There is always a tribe of gypsies working the people arriving out front at Place Napoléon III. [p1020028]


Where You Are is Where You Are

My worst gaffe in train travel involved a northbound German train when traveling with my daughter Stephanie. We were to get off in Darmstadt at 16:29 (4:29pm; trains use the 24 hour system). As the time approached I heard an announcement which included the word Darmstadt. When the train stopped we got off. This was one of the few times in my European travels when someone was to meet us at the station, however our friend Connie was not there. After a beer I called her home and her husband Uwe told me that she had also called and was waiting at the station for us. I looked again, everywhere, but couldn't find her. Finally I asked the cafe owner what city we were in. It was Bensheim, about 10 minutes before Darmstadt. We caught the next train to finish the trip. Contributing to my error was the fact that our train had stopped in the middle of nowhere and then proceeded slowly past a red light on the tracks. We lost about ten minutes, and the announcement that I had heard was simply mentioning that the following stop would be Darmstadt. So, check the signs on the platform to make sure you are where you want to be before jumping off.

I had a near miss on a train from Milan to Monza, Italy also. Those darn Italian train stations are so poorly posted. I jumped off thinking I was in Monza. Then I looked around and didn't recognize the place. I jumped back on in the nick of time and arrived in Monza 10 minutes later.

POTPOURRI

Good Travel Days

Tuesdays are good days to travel. Fridays and Sundays are busy. It is best to avoid traveling on Sunday since tourist offices and other friends of the traveler may be closed or have limited hours. Also watch out for Easter, Christmas, New Years Day, and local holidays. They are busy traveling periods, though many trains don't operate, schedules are usually different, and many businesses are welded shut. See the Prime Travel Data section for dates of local holidays to be aware of.

The Best, and Also Ran

The best trains are in central Europe. France and Germany are the tops in my book, but not to be slighted are Switzerland, Austria, and the Benelux countries. Iberia and Scandinavia, both large but sparsely populated, have less frequent service than I would like. Ireland does not have a very extensive rail system but there is always an inter-city bus. The trains in Britain have been privatized and are very good on the main lines. Local lines are slow.

Italy has probably the most confusing train stations in Europe, with little help available from conductors on the platforms. Allow yourself extra time to find your train.

Maybe the worst train I was ever on, except for Amtrak in the USA, was on a leg of the Orient Express from Vienna to Budapest. We had visions of romance and intrigue because of the name of the train, but this busted up piece of rolling junk was a misery from start to finish. That was back in the commie days and I would imagine that this train has been scrapped by now.

The trans-Ukraine train was well built, but the plumbing was a disaster in our car. You needed galoshes to get into the backed-up toilet. That was also in the commie days and hopefully things are better now.
The train rail lines throughout Denmark. http://www.enjoy-europe.com/hte/chap17/p1110114.jpg
A station map shows all rail lines in Denmark. [p1110114]


Modern Mode

Stephanie and I are on an ICE, InterCity Express, train from Basel, Switzerland to Karlsruhe, Germany at the moment I am writing this paragraph. The car is a beauty. In second class we have our choice of several channels of music using our own stereo headgear and the train's stereo system. She can have her teen stuff and I have relaxing jazz. The seats are comfortable and recline, and the car is air conditioned on this hot July day. Though not as smooth or quiet as the TGV trains I've been on, this car is certainly very nice. Stephanie checked on the first class accommodations and found three across seating instead of four, and more comfortable seats. This second class wagon has open airline type seating plus compartment seating as in the old days. A small area is reserved for heavy luggage to save you the effort of lifting your bags about six feet onto the rack, and a hook in the car lets you hang your coat. There is a telephone booth in the dining car.

TRAIN STATION FACILITIES

In any city, the train station is a hub of activity.

Tourist Office

When arriving in town, don't waste any time getting to the tourist office or hotel information office if you don't already have a hotel reservation, city map, and directory of sights and events. These offices are generally either in or near the train station, port, or center of town. Request a town map and a hotel list. The best time to arrive anyplace is between ten in the morning and noon. It's at this time that the hotel keepers know who is leaving and how many rooms will be available for that night, and the tourist office has not yet closed for the two hour lunch break.

Tourist offices close for the day early in the afternoon in Scandinavia and Ireland. It seems that my train always arrives a half hour too late in these countries. If the tourist office is closed, I ask at the information office (see below), a ticket window, or the money exchange window for a town map and hotel list. One of these is usually able to help me. But, failing that, I buy a town map at the newspaper kiosk in the train station and go out on my own to find a hotel room.
The closed trourist office at the Sants train station in Barcelona, Spain.; http://www.enjoy-europe.com/hte/chap17/p1200190.jpg
Uh oh. It's 10:30 on a Friday morning. The tourist office in the Sants train station in Barcelona, Spain is closed. Huh? The hotel booking office was also closed but everything else in the station was open. What gives? It was a national holiday in Spain, January 6, the Feast of the Three Kings, Epifania. The municipal workers had the day off but everybody else seemed to be working. I guess it pays to be a government employee. [p1060276]


The hotel booking office in Edinburgh Waverly Station. http://www.enjoy-europe.com/hte/chap17/102N0553.jpg
The Edinburgh, Scotland tourist office is in the center of town, not where it should be — in the center of Waverly Station. So I booked my B&B from this office of lastminute.com at the station. Later I found the tourist office and accidentally put a credit card in the ATM machine out front. The machine promptly ate my card. By experience I travel with several credit cards and at least two ATM cards, one from a bank and one from a credit union. [102N0553]


i
For connection information and special help, major train stations typically have an office for train information. This is marked with a large lower case i or marked information. Try pronouncing it "een-for-mah-cee-ohn." You normally cannot get hotel or tourist information in these offices, but they will tell you where the tourist office is located.

Pickpocket Central

At the risk of boring you to death with this warning, train stations are notorious as hangouts for pickpockets and luggage thieves. Some stations have posters to this effect, and some have periodic warnings over the public address system. Most stations do not mention anything. Keep your "American space" around you at all times. When you are in a line, a "queue" to you Brits, be especially wary of those who are trying to butt in.

Pickpockets normally work as a team. One or more distracts you while another makes the lift and passes your goods to another, never to be seen again. The distraction can be a bump, dropping something on the floor in front of you, asking you for the time, or something else. Go on high alert when something out of the ordinary happens and never respond to strangers in a station. Hold on to your luggage at all times and keep your wallet in a tight front pants pocket. Some travelers use "money belts" for security but I don't see the need for these things. I keep my passport and big bills in a pocket in my T shirt under my regular shirt. I have never been robbed though any number of attempts have been made on me. Stay alert at all times, especially in train stations and within a few blocks.

Reading Timetables

Departures and arrivals are posted in each station, departures normally on a yellow or buff-colored poster and arrivals on a white poster. Timetables use the 24 hour clock. Therefore 16:00 or 16h00 is 4 pm to us Americans.

Codes for the days of the week go from Monday = 1 to Sunday = 7, and codes for the months use Roman numerals; e.g., January = I to December = XII. See chapter 28, Time and Dates in Europe: Travel in a Different Time Zone, for more important information on this subject.

The arrivals and departures board for trains at Malmo, Sweden are all on one poster. http://www.enjoy-europe.com/hte/chap17/p1110163.jpg Arrivals and departures are posted on a single poster in the train station at Malmö, Sweden. Departures are usually yellow or buff and arrivals are white. [p1110163]

Luggage Lockers

Luggage lockers are almost universally available in train stations in Europe. Usually there are three sizes available. The depth X height X width dimensions at Brussels Central Station are 36"x15"x12", 36"x24"x15", and the jumbo is 36"x36"x20". This is more or less typical throughout Europe. However, lockers in some countries have a narrower doorway than the width dimensions given here. In skiing areas you'll find tall narrow lockers designed for your skis.

The entrance to the luggage locker area in Gare du Nord, Paris, France. http://www.enjoy-europe.com/hte/chap17/p1020031.jpg This sign at the entrance to the luggage lockers at Gare du Nord (North Train Station) in Paris, France announces the conditions for doing business. The 2006 prices are €4.00, €7.00, and €9.50 respectively for the baby, junior, and jumbo sizes for up to 48 hours. After 48 hours you pay much more. A lost ticket will cost you €20.00. These prices are higher than most in European train stations, but hey, this is Paris. Notice the hours of business. This place is not 24/7. In fact almost nothing is 24/7 in Europe. You can expect to have your goods x-rayed. Once again the French have made it easy for us — the sign is 100% English. [p1020031]

You can leave your goods for up to 24 or 48 hours normally. After 72 hours, station attendants may remove the contents to the baggage checkroom. You'll pay again to retrieve your belongings. Baggage checkrooms are almost always available in stations if your bag doesn't fit in a locker or if all of the lockers are full. I've seen bicycles and other sports gear behind the fence at baggage checkrooms.

Bike Rentals

In Holland and Belgium, bicycle rental offices are generally in or handy to the station. If you don't see one immediately ask around. A bicycle is a fiets in Holland. Before renting a bicycle, check it out mechanically. Make sure the lights, bell, and brakes work. Drive it around the block to make sure you are comfortable and secure on it. Bring it back immediately for adjustments if there is anything wrong.

The price for a day's bicycle rental is about what you would pay for lunch. Leave your International Driving Permit as security, not your passport. You'll probably need your passport during the day and you don't want it lying there amongst some oily papers and receipts. In fact, in Holland you are required to have your passport with you at all times in case a police officer wants to know who you are. Bike rental at the York, England train station. http://www.enjoy-europe.com/hte/chap17/102N0355.jpg



Bicycle rentals are available at the York, England train station. The one on the left needs some air in the rear tire. I wouldn't rent it even if they pumped it up because it will leak again. [102N0355]

Other Facilities

Banks and/or foreign money exchange companies are established in the larger train stations. There is usually a line waiting. There is probably a bank cash machine where you can use your ATM card, and it probably offers a slightly better exchange rate. But chances are that your home bank will charge you up to $5.00 per transaction. In countries where the euro is not accepted you'll see money exchange stores, not only in the station but throughout the business districts of cities.

Larger train stations also have snack bars, drink bars, restaurants, showers, toilets, post offices, newsstands, grocery stores, and candy stands. Some major stations have been expanded underground to include large shopping centers. Train stations are good places for after hours shopping. City stores in western Europe generally close at 6 or 7 pm, even earlier on Saturday, and are not open on Sunday. Major city train station markets selling everything from bananas to birthday cards are often open until midnight, and on Sunday.

The Hotel Ibis in the Duesseldorf, Germany train station. http://www.enjoy-europe.com/hte/chap17/p1100039.jpg




An Ibis Hotel is located in the Hauptbahnhof (main train station) in Düsseldorf, Germany. Ibis is a reasonably priced chain with hotels throughout Europe. [p1100039]

Entrance to the men's room in the Prague, Czech Republik train station. http://www.enjoy-europe.com/hte/chap17/p1210249.jpg




This entrance to the men's room in the Prague, Czech Republic train station shows the price of entry at 5 koruns, about 20 cents. A shower costs 40 koruns, about $1.60. Use the potty on the train and save a couple of dimes. [p1210249]




NOTE TO READERS

I welcome questions and comments. If you have any concerns about your trip to Europe that have not been covered well enough in this chapter do not hesitate to write and ask.

My email address is johnbermont@enjoy-europe.com.

When you write please include as much detail as possible. There are about 50 countries in Europe. It will help me answer if you mention the countries and/or cities you plan to visit. I will reply in a day or two.

Don't forget to scroll through the Table of Contents below. The other 29 chapters of HOW TO EUROPE are also available, free to read on line.

For a check-off punchlist of everything go to The Finale, Packing List and Last Call: For Travel In Europe.

If you know of someone else who would appreciate reading this web page please send the URL link to him or her. To easily do that, click your "File" tab in the tool bar and scroll down to "Send" or "Send Link." Your friend will thank you, and I thank you.

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This internet edition of chapter 17 is in 4 parts due to its large size. This is part 3. Click the part numbers below to see more about trains in Europe.
Part 1 classes of service, train tickets, Eurailpass, other rail passes, reservations, official business
Part 2 finding your station, finding your train, finding your car, luggage, on-board train facilities, eating on the train.
Part 3 sleeping on night trains, night train reservations, night train facilities, departure and destination procedures, potpourri, train station facilities.
Part 4 international buses and ferry services. Sometimes there are no train tracks!

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Note: Italicized notations by the author.
Two excellent maps to help you plan and execute your journey.
Rail Map Europe, 18th (Thomas Cook Rail Map)
Rail Map Europe
18th edition
Thomas Cook Rail Map


Rail Map of Britain and Ireland, 7th, Thomas Cook Rail Map
Rail Map of Britain & Ireland
7th edition
Thomas Cook Rail Map


Comprehensive guides to the rails throughout Europe.
Traveling the Eurail Express by Jay Brunhouse
Traveling the Eurail Express
by Jay Brunhouse


Europe by Rail: The Definitive Guide for Independent Travellers (Thomas Cook Rail Guides)
Europe by Rail:
The Definitive Guide for Independent Travellers (Thomas Cook Rail Guides)


Europe by Eurail 2012: Touring Europe by Train
Europe by Eurail 2012: Touring Europe by Train


A comprehensive guide to 3,000 hotels and restaurants in 44 major cities throughout Europe, in English. Separate books in the Michelin Red series cover individual countries in greater detail. This is a must have for frequent travelers.
Michelin Guide 2013 Main Cities of Europe
Main Cities of Europe 2013
Michelin Guide


Rolling luggage sure beats lugging a pack on your back.
Delsey Helium Breeze 2.0 Carry-On Upright
Delsey Luggage Helium Fusion Light 21 Inches Expandable Carryon


Day luggage for your walkabout.
Travelpro Luggage WalkAbout LITE 4 Deluxe Tote Bag
Travelpro Luggage WalkAbout LITE 4 Deluxe Tote


Keep your stuff organized.
eBags Medium Packing Cubes - 3pc Set
Luggage Packing Cubes
eBags 3pc Set


eBags Small Packing Cubes - 3pc Set
eBags Small Packing Cubes - 3pc Set


Wear a money belt under your shirt to protect your passport and valuables, especially if you are staying in hostels or dorms.
Victorinox Deluxe Concealed Security Belt
Victorinox Deluxe Concealed Security Belt


An RFID blocking wallet protects your passport and credit cards from identity theft in public places.
Travelon RFID Blocking Passport Case
Travelon RFID Blocking Passport Case


This portable combo door stopper and alarm will give you additional security in your hotel room.
GE 50246 Smart Home Door Stop Alarm
GE 50246 Smart Home
Door Stop Alarm


' ' ' ' ' '
It rains. Be prepared.
Totes Titanium Auto-Open/Close Umbrella
Totes Titanium Auto-Open/Close Umbrella


Weather protection is important. This is a great lightweight water repellent windbreaker.
Turfer Women's Featherweight Jacket
Turfer Women's Featherweight Jacket


This windbreaker is a bit more substantial.
Devon Jones Pink Women's Signature Colorblock Jacket
Devon & Jones Women's Signature Colorblock Jacket


Look sharp and be comfortable.
Hot Chillys Women's Peach Skins Solid T-Neck Shirt
Hot Chillys Women's Peach Skins Solid T-Neck Shirt


London Fog Women's Double Breasted Trench Coat
London Fog Women's Double Breasted Trench Coat


Wear a scarf for comfort and style. Nobody will ever suspect that you are an American.
Very soft houndstooth neck scarf, Kanye West style, different colors available
Very soft houndstooth neck scarf, Kanye West style, different colors available


Clarks Women's Wave.Run Slip-On
Clarks Women's Wave.Run Slip-On


Jessica Simpson Women's Satin Trench Rainwear
Tilley Endurables TH9 Women's Hemp Hat


Weather protection and extra pockets.
Scottevest Packable Multi-Pocket Windbreaker
Scottevest Packable
Multi-Pocket Windbreaker


SCOTTEVEST Travel Vest for Men
SCOTTEVEST Travel Vest for Men


SCOTTEVEST Travel Vest for Women
SCOTTEVEST Travel Vest for Women


I wore one similar to this on my early spring trip to London and Dublin.
Orvis Leather Bomber Jacket
Leather Bomber Jacket
Orvis


My "standard" shirt for off-season travel in Europe.
Kingsize Big and Tall Turtleneck Long-Sleeve Cotton Shirt
Kingsize Big & Tall Turtleneck Long-Sleeve Cotton Shirt


My favorite T-shirt/undershirt has a pocket for securely carrying passport, cash, and credit cards.
Hanes 6.1oz. Tagless Pocket T-Shirt
Turfer Tagless ComfortSoft T-Shirt with Pocket


New Casual Grey Herringbone Wool Cap
New Casual Grey Herringbone Wool Cap


For leg comfort on the plane.
Arriva Travel-Tec Travel Legwear with Smart Compression Technology
Arriva Travel-Tec Travel Legwear with Smart Compression Technology


Block the light and noise while flying.
Bucky Shades Sleep Mask With Earplugs
Bucky Shades Sleep Mask
With Earplugs


Certainly a better pillow than the corporate issue on the plane.
Bucky Fuzzy Wuzzy U Pillow With Snap Go
Bucky Fuzzy Wuzzy U Pillow With Snap & Go


Be on time. Trains and planes don't wait.
Casio Men's G-Shock Ana-Digi Chronograph Sport Watch
Casio Men's G-Shock Ana-Digi Chronograph Sport Watch


Casio Women's BLX100-1 Baby-G Multi-Function Digital Black Resin Sport Watch
Casio Women's BLX100-1 Baby-G Multi-Function Digital Black Resin Sport Watch


You will need one or more of these plug adapters for your appliances and chargers.
For details on electricity in Europe see chapter 11, Electricity in Europe: Travel Voltage Fundamentals

Electrical Plug Adapter USA to Continental Europe
Plug Adapter (doubler)
Universal to Continental Europe "Europlug."
4.0 mm prongs


SIMRAN PLUG ADAPTER - CONVERTS GROUNDED USA PLUGS TO EUROPE PLUG-GERMAN SHUCKO PLUG (VP 11W)
SIMRAN PLUG ADAPTER
Adapts grounded USA plugs to European "Shucko" plug.
4.8 mm prongs


This is a universal plug adapter for the UK and Ireland.
Grounded Adaptor Plug - United Kingdom, Ireland
Grounded Adaptor Plug for Britain and Ireland


This series of "3-Pack" Ceptics brand grounded universal plug adapters is handy if you are carrying multiple gizmos or if you have travel companions who also need a charge.

Schuko Continental Europe plug
Continental Europe


British and Irish plug
Britain and Ireland


Italian plug
Italy


Swiss plug
Switzerland


This 110-250 volt power surge strip has three universal outlets and an American grounded plug so it needs a plug adapter for the countries you are visiting. Make sure your gizmos are rated for 110-240 volts. SM-60 Universal 3 Outlet Power Strip / Surge Protector for Worldwide Travel. 110V-250V with Overload Protection.
SM-60 Universal 3 Outlet Power Strip Surge Protector for Worldwide Travel. 110V-250V with Overload Protection.


For charging up to six gizmos at a time use this 250 volt universal power strip. It comes with a grounded Continental plug.
Universal Outlet Surge Protector Power Strip for AC 220V/240V Countries. Max Load 13A 250V 50/60HZ - 450 Joules. CE Certified
Surge Protector
Power Strip
6 Universal Outlets
220/240 Volt 50/60Hz


Absolutely the best battery for digital cameras which use AA batteries.
Energizer - AA Lithium Batteries - 4 Pack
Energizer
AA Lithium Batteries
4 Pack


Make sure that your electrical appliances are 110-220 dual voltage so they will work in Europe.
Note: These appliances require a plug adapter(s), NOT a converter, for the countries you are visiting.
Conair's Dual-Voltage Ionic Hair Dryer
Vagabond Compact Styler
Conair's Dual-Voltage Ionic Hair Dryer


Conair Flat Iron Ceramic Straightener Dual Voltage
Conair Flat Iron 2" Ceramic Straightener
Dual Voltage


Remington H-1015 All That Quick Curl Travel Hair Setter
Travel Hair Setter
Dual Voltage
Remington H-1015


SteamFast SF-717 Home-and-Away Mini Steam Iron (dual voltage)
SteamFast SF-717 Home-and-Away Mini Steam Iron (dual voltage)


Braun Series 1 150 Men's Shaver with Automatic Worldwide Voltage Adjustment
Braun Series 1 150 Men's Shaver with Automatic Worldwide Voltage Adjustment


For light sleepers here is an international "white noise" machine. Includes a Continental plug adapter.
Marsona TSCi-330 White Noise Travel Sound Conditioner For both USA and International Use
Marsona TSCi-330 White Noise Travel Sound Conditioner For both USA and International Use


For coffee or tea in your room, without waiting or paying for room service.
Lewis N. Clark Immersion Heater 120/240V
Lewis N. Clark Immersion Heater 120/240V


Starbucks makes the best instant coffee I have found, and these little packets cost only 58¢ each in the 50 unit sack. That's a bargain in the USA and an absolute steal anyplace in Europe.
Starbucks VIA Ready Brew Coffee, available in House Blend, Colombia, Italian, and Italian Decaf roasts.
Starbucks VIA Ready Brew Coffee, available in House Blend, Colombia, Italian, and Italian Decaf roasts.


Who wrote this?

Home and general index.


Valid XHTML 1.0 Transitional

Table of Contents
HOW TO EUROPE
The Complete Travelers Handbook

All of the text, updated to May 2013, is available on line, FREE. Updated photographs with captions are available on line for those chapters as noted "with illustrations."
The entire book, copyright 2003, can be purchased by clicking Amazon.com.
Chapter 1, with illustrations.
What's It All About?
Travel Like a Native In Europe First home in Holland on the Spaarne River in Haarlem. http://www.enjoy-europe.com/01-0117.jpg


Chapter 2
On Budget in Europe
Travel Costs


Chapter 3
Passport and Visas
Essential Identity and Travel Documents


Chapter 4
Flying to Europe
Travel Starts at the Airport


Chapter 5, with illustrations.
What to Wear in Europe
Travel Clothes for all Occasions Stephanie in Paris. http://www.enjoy-europe.com/05-1895.jpg


Chapter 6
Your Packing List for Europe
A Short List for Travelers


Chapter 7
Luggage for Europe
Let It Roll


Chapter 8
Cash, ATMs, Credit Cards
Travel Money in Europe


Chapter 9
Your Travel Diary of Europe
Notes Supplement Your Photos


Chapter 10
Europe Guide Books and Maps
Tomes for Travel


Chapter 11
Electricity in Europe
Travel Voltage Fundamentals


Chapter 12, with illustrations.
Photography in Europe
Travel with Your Camera The Austrian Alps from Hall-In-Tyrol, just east of Innsbruck. http://www.enjoy-europe.com/12-1204.jpg


Chapter 13
Bring a Smile
Travel Europe in Good Attitude


Chapter 14
Hotels, Hostels, B&Bs, Private Homes
Sleep Options for Travel in Europe


Chapter 15
Good Eating In Europe
Travel on Your Belly


Chapter 16
City Transport in Europe
Bus, Tram, Metro, Taxi, Bike, Boat, Shoe


Chapter 17, part 1, with illustrations.
Trains in Europe
A Primer for Riding the Rails An ICE high speed train parked at Amsterdam's Centraal Station. http://www.enjoy-europe.com/171-P1230436f.jpg


Chapter 17, part 2, with illustrations.
European Rail Stations
Finding Your Way Around The train departure board at Brussels' Zuid/Midi train station. http://www.enjoy-europe.com/172-p1020015.jpg


Chapter 17, part 3, with illustrations.
Europe's Night Trains
City to City As You Sleep


Chapter 17, part 4, with illustrations.
Europe's Bus and Ship Services
Road or Ferry


Chapter 18, with illustrations.
Driving in Europe
Car, Van, or Motorcycle The Champs Elysees in Paris France. http://www.enjoy-europe.com/18-0440.jpg


Chapter 19, part 1
Telephoning to, from, and within Europe
City Codes, 10-10, cell phones, PTT


Chapter 19, part 2
Sending Snail Mail to & from Europe
Priority Mail, PTT, Poste Restante


Chapter 19, part 3
Internet and Email in Europe
Cyber Cafes, Keyboards, Your Laptop


Chapter 19, part 4
Telegrams
Wiring Cash and Keeping in Touch


Chapter 20
Health and Safety in Europe
Travel in Confidence but with Caution


Chapter 21
Working in Europe
Get Paid to Travel


Chapter 22, part 1
Moving to Europe
Things to Know Before You Go


Chapter 22, part 2
Living in Europe
Travel to the Max as an Expatriate


Chapter 23, with illustrations.
Shopping in Europe
Stuff You Can't Live Without The duty free chocolate shop at Amsterdam's Schiphol Airport. http://www.enjoy-europe.com/23-P1250471.jpg


Chapter 24
Shipping Your Treasures Home
Travelers' Options from Europe


Chapter 25
Passing Customs in Europe
Know the Rules When Crossing Borders


Chapter 26
Languages, Numbers, Alphabets
Encounter The Tower of Babel in Europe Sign: Please do not walk on the grass. http://www.enjoy-europe.com/DSC0649-PleaseDoNot


Chapter 27
Metric System in Europe
Grams, Meters, Liters, Celsius


Chapter 28
Time and Dates in Europe
Travel in a Different Time Zone


Chapter 29
Weather in Europe
Travel with Your Umbrella


Chapter 30
Melding with Europe
Travel Is Interesting and Entertaining




The Finale
Packing List and Last Call
For Travel In Europe

Learn the basic infrastructure:

Prime Travel Data
Elementary Travel Information for Europe
Austria
Belgium
Czech Republic
Denmark
Finland

France
Germany
Greece
Ireland
Italy
Luxembourg
Netherlands
Norway
Portugal
Slovakia
Spain
Sweden
Switzerland
United Kingdom

Utilize John Bermont's exclusive:

TRAVELERS YELLOW PAGES
A Directory of Links to Products, Services, and Information
Airlines to Europe
National Tourist Offices
City Tourist Offices
City Information and Tours
Country Information and Tours
Luggage and Backpacks
Discount Air Travel
Villas and Homes for Rent
Hostels in Europe
Hotels in Europe
Auto Rental in Europe
Rail Services of Europe
Eclectic Travel Sites
Internet Search Engines
Photography
Guide Books for Europe
Educational Programs
Newsletters from Europe
Personal Travel Pages
Personal Trip Planning

Get open hours, costs, locations, and more:

Travelers Portfolio
Essential Visitors Information for the Top Sights of Europe
       Amsterdam       
Anne Frank Huis
Rijksmuseum
Van Gogh Museum
       London       
British Museum
Buckingham Palace
National Gallery
Natural History Museum
Palace of Westminster
St. Paul's Cathedral
Tower of London
Westminster Abbey
       Paris coming soon       
Arc de Triomphe
Tour Eiffel
Hôtel des Invalides
Musée de l'Armée
Opera
Montmarte
Cathédrale Notre Dame
Musée d'Orsay
Musée du Louvre

Exchange rates, weather, maps:

Up-To-The-Minute
Be informed before you go.
       Money Exchange Chart/graph of the value of the euro 1999 to 2013. http://www.enjoy-europe.com/Euro-1999-2013b.jpg
Currency exchange rates, including the euro, British pound, Swiss Frank.
       Weather in Europe Chart/graph comparing average temperatures in Atlanta, Chicago, Vienna, and London. http://www.enjoy-europe.com/weathergraph-s.jpg
Current European weather conditions and forecasts. Good luck.
    Maps and Time Zones
Free online maps of Europe. Guide to setting your watch ahead.
    German Wine Labels: Taste and Spit Label and bottle photo of a German Riesling Nahe blue bottle wine. http://www.enjoy-europe.com/GermanWineBottleLabel-s.jpg
How to translate the labels. Rieslings, Piesporter, Ice Wine, and other stuff to know.

Captioned photos from Europe
PhotoLog
Pictures of what we do in Europe.
       Queen's Day Queen's Day boats in a canal in Amsterdam, Holland. http://www.enjoy-europe.com/Starting-s.jpg
Holland hosts a great one-day party, annually on April 30. Here is the action in Haarlem and Amsterdam.
       Keukenhof A small portion of the magnificent flower garden at Keukenhof, Lisses, Holland. http://www.enjoy-europe.com/MorePatches-s.jpg
A beautiful huge tulip garden blooms during middle spring. We made a leisurely bike ride from Haarlem.
       Bull Flight
A small bull chases Stephanie in Spain. http://www.enjoy-europe.com/BullFlight-s.jpg

My daughter Stephanie enters the ring and encounters a baby bull in Spain, then flies for her life!
       O hey Europe
Stephanie's Blog. A 22 year old spends a month in Paris, with a weekend diversion to La Baule on the Atlantic coast.

Copyright
Internet edition
© 2013, 2012, 2011, 2010, 2009, 2008, 2007, 2006, 2005, 2004, 2002, 2001 James J. Broad
© 1987, 1986, 1984, 1982 Murphy & Broad Publishing Co.
All rights reserved. Tous droits réservés.
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The cover of How To Europe shows the interior of Centraal Station in Antwerp, Belgium.

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HOW TO EUROPE
The Complete Travelers Handbook
2013 — Our 31st Anniversary!


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FLAGS of EUROPE

Flag of Estonia
Estonia
Flag of Hungary
Hungary
Flag of Iceland
Iceland
Flag of Latvia
Latvia
Flag of Lithuania
Lithuania
Flag of Monaco
Monaco
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Poland
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Romania
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Russia
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Turkey
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Ukraine

Keywords for this chapter:
rail, rails, europe, sleeping on night trains, night train reservations, night train facilities, nachtzug, citynightline, train hotel, treinhotel, gare du nord

Europe's Night Trains
City to City As You Sleep.