Chapter 17
(part 3 of 4 parts)
of
HOW TO EUROPE
The Complete Travelers Handbook
Internet edition. Photographs by the author.
A page from
Enjoy-Europe.com
by
John Bermont
The "Hans Christian Andersen" could only be going to
one city, though it stops in plenty of others along the way. This is
the signboard on a car of the DB NachtZug (Night Train) NZ/EN 482
from München (Munich) to København (Copenhagen). I
boarded in Fulda, Germany a little before midnight, had a fine sleep
in a couchette, was served a free breakfast in my compartment, and arrived
well rested in downtown Copenhagen at 9:59 in the morning. It kind of makes you
feel like royalty. The EN designation in the train number means EuroNight.
[p1110113]
SLEEPING ON NIGHT TRAINS
Night train service has been reduced over the years thanks to the new high
speed trains which reduce the need for it. But the night service
which remains is a wonderful way to travel.
You have three options. You can sleep in a regular or recliner seat, sleep
in a couchette bunk, or sleep in a mini hotel style room complete with a full
bathroom.
Sleep in Your Seat
When I was younger I didn't use sleeping berths in western Europe since I
was always able to stretch out in a first class compartment
for a reasonable night's sleep, even with five other people in the
compartment. The seats can be slid out together and the armrests
lifted so that the compartment becomes the equivalent of a king
size bed. Everybody flops in. It looks like a can of sardines.
In my first class compartment on the InterCity
from Geneva, Switzerland to Milan, Italy I could pull out the seats
and form a king size bed. This is what it
looks like when you pull out just one seat. There are another
three seats opposite and they
all come together. There is no need to sleep sitting up.
[p1070374]
The major problem in the days prior to the European Union was that the train
conductors and border police seemed to be continuously checking
tickets and passports. This is now only true for passports when crossing into
Switzerland and in and out of some of the former communist countries. Even in
former communist countries which are now members of the EU the border
police will inspect and stamp your passport, especially when traveling in second class.
But train conductors change crews on long distance and international trains so
you are subject to ticket inspection at any time of the day or night.
There is also the sometimes inconvenience of people climbing over you, or vice
versa, to make for the toilet or a breath of fresh air. Everybody
quickly accepts the etiquette of temporary communal living. When sleeping
with a group and/or with unlocked doors, keep your wallet and passport
stuffed in with your private parts, and sleep on your camera.
SLEEPING COMPARTMENTS
When traveling with a Eurailpass the sleeper compartments with real beds
are not included. The cost is different in each country and ranges
from about $20 to $45, probably averaging $25 per night. You can't
find a hotel for that price, and probably not even a hostel or a
B&B in many countries. You can wake up in the center of a different
city every morning, rested and refreshed and ready to take on the
new town.
My first experience in an overnight couchette was over in the Ukraine.
I traveled east from Kiev, sharing a compartment with three colleagues. We had a fine time,
especially since one fellow traveler had brought along adequate
provisions of bread, sausages, and vodka which was shared all
around. Our train left about midnight and reached our destination
in the eastern Ukraine at 9:30 the next evening, a 21½ hour
ride — the Ukraine is a mighty big wheat field. The toilets were
filthy and overflowing despite the presence of a "maid" in each car. She seemed to
be glued to the chair in her cubicle.
Sleeping cars and couchette berths are offered on many long
distance overnight trains. The trains are called CityNightLine,
NachtZug, TrenHotel, and others.
Sleeping berth service comes at an extra charge and is not
included in regular ticket prices or the rail passes. Couchettes
are bunk-style berths. When you reserve your bunk you have choices. The most
common compartment arrangements are T3 (Tourist 3) and T4 in first
class. T3 has three bunks up one side of the comartment and T4 has
4 bunks, 2 on each side.
Here is half of a second class T6 ("tourist 6 bunk") couchette on the
Corail from Paris to Hendaye in
far southwest France, nearly on the Spanish border. But I was in a T4 traveling first class
with a Eurailpass and paid €23, about $28, for my bunk. From
Hendaye I bought a ticket on the Eusko Tren to San Sebastian, Spain. That was only €1.35.
[p1020100]
Reservations
You must reserve your bunk and pay the supplement fee in advance. You do
this in special offices or ticket windows in the major stations. These are
usually easy to find but do it early so there will be no problem in
catching the train, or in finding an available bunk. When traveling
vagabond style in January I would go to the reservation window every
morning when I arrived in a new city and take care of business immediately.
I never had a problem getting the train I wanted for that night. If you
are traveling in summer this strategy could be problematic. Many night trains
on the busy routes are sold out weeks and months in advance.
When making your reservation you must select a bunk or let the system do it for you.
I prefer the lower bunks because I'm not too
handy on ladders. If you like more privacy take the upper bunks.
See the section titled Berth Notation below to help you select the location of your
berth. Check your supplement receipt before leaving the window to make sure they
have given you the location you want. Often they will not give you what you asked for.
Then you may be told that the middle bunk is the only one available, and when you
get on board you discover that you are the only person in the compartment. Now it
is time to talk to the conductor or conductress and try to change to the bunk
you wanted. Make sure you get an OK before taking another bunk.
Find Your Sleeping Car
Boarding a sleeping car is much different than boarding a normal train.
Before you board a sleeping car you show your ticket or railpass along with your berth
reservation and supplement fee receipt to a conductor on the platform. The conductor
normally keeps all the paperwork and returns it to you in the morning.
If the conductor doesn't return them make sure to ask for them before the train gets to your destination.
If you are crossing a border or traveling on a Eurailpass you
might also be asked for your passport. Normally
this is returned to you immediately but sometimes the conductor will keep this
also and return it to you in the morning, even if you are traveling entirely
within the European Union. Old habits are hard to break. If the conductor does
not ask for your passport you might be awakened at a border crossing in the
middle of the night by the border police, though this is very unlikely
to happen in a sleeper.
Sleeper compartments are really nice, but tight. I think I would
rather sleep in a seat rather than share a second class T6 with 5
backpackers. My experience in couchettes and sleepers has been in
January when there are few travelers. I have had first class T3 and T4 compartments
to myself in most cases, but never more than one other person. My close
call with a second class was short term. There was a family of 6 from
someplace in the third world making a bunch of noise in the next cabin.
I quickly upped to first class after paying the premium.
T3 cabins have three berths going up one side of the cabin. I prefer the lower
berth for convenience, and I don't like the idea of climbing a ladder to the second
or third berth. The upper berth is preferred by some because there is more
privacy up on top. Head room in all the berths of a T3 is sparce.
Berth Notation
The lowest berth is always berth 1. Above that is 3 and then 5. So e.g.,
in compartment 5 the lower berth would be number 51
in that car. Bottom bunk is also often called berth B where B stands for bas, meaning
"low" in French and other romance languages. The middle berth would be 53, also
called M for medio or some similar word meaning middle. The upper berth
is 55 and also called A for alt or alto for "high."
T4 cabins are similar except that they have two bunks on each side of the cabin
with enough aisle space to drag in a carry-on bag. Even numbers starting with 2
are on one side and odds starting at 1 on the other, e.g. 52 and 51 are both the lowest
berths in compartment 5.
Luggage
Luggage is stowed under the lower bunks, on a ledge above the door, or next to
the window. Clearance under the lower bunk is maybe 8". There is not much room. There is
always a coat rack with hooks or hangars. In some rail
cars there is a special room near the outside door for oversized luggage, bicycles, skis, and such.
Use a lock.
Yes they do allow bicycles on night trains. It will cost extra
but the cost will certainly be less than renting a car in Denmark.
[p1110115]
Security
Many people are concerned about security these days. If you are
sound asleep on a train you might think that there a good possibility of getting
rolled and robbed. A possibility perhaps like anywhere else on the
planet but not a very good possibility in a sleeper compartment.
Each one that I have used has at least a knob lock and a bolt.
Several have had card keys so you can lock up when you leave the
cabin. There is often no need to leave the cabin since many cabins
include a toilet and even a shower.
This is the bathroom in the first class sleeping compartment of my
overnight train from Malmo, Sweden to Oslo, Norway. It is complete with toilet, shower, towels,
and hair dryer. Overnight trains are a great way to get around Europe. Keep
in mind that you are paying separately for two services when you use an
overnight couchette or sleeper car — the ride and the bunk.
On this train my Eurailpass covered the cost of the train ride and the
compartment cost 251 Danish kroner, about $41. I was supposed to get a free breakfast in Oslo
but nobody would tell me where to go for it. Most, but not all, overnight trains
also have regular rail cars with seats and there is normally no extra charge for these.
[p1110175]
Plumbing
Virtually all of my first class compartments had a basin with running water. Several had
en suite toilets and even showers. Toilets in second class are at each end of the car.
Wake Up Call
Yes, they'll wake you as you get within a half hour of your destination. One of the beauties of
Eurailpass is that you don't have to get off if you don't want to. I was traveling from
Dresden to see friends near Frankfurt, Germany. The train was scheduled to arrive in Frankfurt at
5:30 in the morning and I couldn't see my friends until late in the day. Rather than get off
into the dark icey winter morning I rolled over and slept until Düsseldorf, had a nice day
in the Altstadt, and then hopped on an afternoon train back to Frankfurt.
Breakfast in Bed
Many first class overnight trains include a continental
breakfast. This is usually delivered to your cabin. Sometimes you
have to put on your sandals and walk to the diner car. Speaking of
sandals, these are very handy on overnight trains. In fact they are
very handy on all trains and in hotels, hostels, and B&Bs. I never
go anywhere without my Birkenstocks. If you don't have a pair buy
them when you get to Germany for half the American price.
This is a small portion of the train composition
board at Praha (Prague), Czech Republic. I especially like the name of
Express 533, the "Budvar," one
of the best beers in the world. IC is an InterCity and R is a smaller
caliber Regional train.
[p1210246]
ARRIVING
Getting Off
Know your route. Just after the train pulls out of the last
station before your destination or connection, start getting ready
to get off. Take a pit stop. Shave. Brush your hair. Powder your
nose. Whatever. Gather up your belongings. Recheck around your seat
and in the luggage rack.
Train stops are announced in some
countries, but usually in the local language. On International
Express class trains in Germany and Spain, train stops are also
announced in French and English a few minutes before arrival. On
InterCity trains in Germany, the conductors pass out a
complete schedule, Ihr Zug-Begleiter (Your Guide to the
Train). This shows every stop and connection. The symbol
translation table is in German and in English.
To open the door on a train, you usually push a latch lever down
and push the door outward. I found that the doors of trains in
Spain open inward, the opposite of most countries. Sometimes a
small section of the floor in front of the door folds up, revealing
the steps. You cannot open the door on some Irish trains from the
inside; you must reach out the window to grab the door latch, or
find a door that is already open. Trains in Holland have push
buttons for opening the door. Why doesn't every country have this?
Short Stops
Be at the door before the train comes to a stop. Train stops are
typically two minutes. If the train is running late, the stops are
abbreviated. Be quick and bully your way off just like the locals.
There may be a crowd trying to board. If you don't get off before
the first passenger pushes on, you might find yourself riding that
train to the next station.
Longer Stops
Though trains normally make two minute stops in major cities
they sometimes stop for 15 to 30 minutes to load and unload mail
and do some car switching. You may have time to jump off and make
a call or buy a paper, but this can be risky.
At a scheduled 15 minute stop in Zagreb, I decided to buy
sandwiches because there was no food on the Budapest to Trieste
train. There was supposed to have been a diner car, but there
wasn't and we were starving. Prior to jumping off, I walked back
through the train to a car where I could get a better view of the
platform and see if there was a food kiosk convenient on the
platform. While looking out the window, the train started moving
back toward Budapest, and picking up speed. I looked out the end
window and saw the car with Elizabeth in it, but it was still
standing! After some panicky shouts to an unconcerned worker on the
train the car I was in finally stopped a mile down the track. I
jumped out and ran back up the tracks to the station. I still had
some time. I found a bank in the station to change money, bought
two sandwiches, and scampered back out to the car where Elizabeth
was. It was gone! Oh my! Then, from another track on another
platform, I heard Elizabeth calling me. They had moved our car to
attach some more before continuing on to Italy. It took a while for
my heart to resume normal speed.
This orientation plan of the Gare du Nord in Paris, France
has a legend on the left keyed in French, English, and German. You'll see all the
platform numbers, station services, and streets surrounding the station.
There is always a bullseye on maps
like this with the notation "Vous étes ici" which means "You are here." How
could they make it easier for you? Click on the picture to see it in greater detail.
[p1020028]
Where You Are is Where You Are
My worst gaffe in train travel involved a northbound German
train when traveling with my daughter Stephanie. We were to get off
in Darmstadt at 16:29 (4:29pm; trains use the 24 hour system). As
the time approached I heard an announcement which included the word
Darmstadt. When the train stopped we got off. This was one of the
few times in my European travels when someone was to meet us at the
station, however our friend Connie was not there. After a beer I
called her home and her husband Uwe told me that she had also
called and was waiting at the station for us. I looked again,
everywhere, but couldn't find her. Finally I asked the cafe owner
what city we were in. It was Bensheim, about 10 minutes before
Darmstadt. We caught the next train to finish the trip.
Contributing to my error was the fact that our train had stopped in
the middle of nowhere and then proceeded slowly past a red light on
the tracks. We lost about ten minutes, and the announcement that I
had heard was simply mentioning that the following stop would be
Darmstadt. So, check the signs on the platform to make sure you are
where you want to be before jumping off.
POTPOURRI
Good Travel Days
Tuesdays are good days to travel. Fridays are busy. It is best
to avoid traveling on Sunday since tourist offices and other
friends of the traveler may be closed or have limited hours. Also
watch out for Easter, Christmas, New Years Day, and local holidays.
They are busy traveling periods, though many trains don't operate,
schedules may be different, and all businesses are welded shut.
The Best, and Also Ran
The best trains are in central Europe. France and Germany are
the tops in my book, but not to be slighted are Switzerland,
Austria, and the Benelux countries. Iberia and Scandinavia, both
large but sparsely populated, have less frequent service than I
would like.
Italy has probably the most confusing train stations in Europe,
with little help available from conductors on the platforms. The
most confusing in my experience was Bari. Travelers going to Greece
from Rome will probably be changing trains in Bari. The posted
schedule is not accurate. You might just as well go to the station
master's office and ask when and where to catch the next train to
Brindisi. I found most of the trains in Italy to be half an hour to
an hour late. In talking to some Greek students on the boat to
Patras, they told me that the trains are worse in Greece. They were
right. They said that I should use the buses in Greece. They were
right again. The train from Patras to Athens (140 miles) took over
six hours; I returned on a bus in three hours. On that Greek train,
a boy came through about every hour selling Chicklets, Bic
lighters, and Kleenex. If you are going to use the toilet, I
recommend that you purchase the Kleenex unless you have your own supply of
TP.
Maybe the worst train I was ever on, except for Amtrak in the
USA, was on a leg of the Orient Express from Vienna to
Budapest. We had visions of romance and intrigue because of the
name of the train, but this busted up piece of rolling junk was a
misery from start to finish.
The trans-Ukraine train was
well built, but the plumbing was a disaster in our car. You needed
galoshes to get in the toilet.
A station map shows all rail lines in Denmark.
[p1110114]
Modern Mode
Stephanie and I are on an ICE train from Basel, Switzerland to
Karlsruhe, Germany at the moment I am writing this paragraph. The car is a
beauty. In second class we have our choice of several channels of
music using our own stereo headgear and the train's stereo system.
She can have her teen stuff and I have relaxing jazz. The seats are
comfortable and recline, and the car is air conditioned on this hot
July day. Though not as smooth or quiet as the TGV trains
I've been on, this car is certainly very nice. Stephanie checked on
the first class accommodations and found three across seating
instead of four, and more comfortable seats. This second class
wagon has open airline type seating plus compartment seating as in
the old days. A small area is reserved for heavy luggage to save
you the effort of lifting your bags about six feet onto the rack,
and a rack in the car lets you hang your coat. There is a telephone
booth in the dining car.
As we charge into the new
century, European train travel is keeping pace with the other
comforts of life. The only disadvantage is the extra cost for
reservations and supplements on the superior trains. But it sure
isn't as bad as the cost of gasoline, especially in Europe.
TRAIN STATION FACILITIES
In any city, the train station is a hub of activity.
Tourist Office
When arriving in town, don't waste any time getting to the
tourist office or hotel information office if you don't already
have a hotel reservation, city map, and directory of sights and
events. These offices are generally either in or near the train
station, port, or center of town. Request a town map and a hotel
list. The best time to arrive anyplace is between ten in the
morning and noon. It's at this time that the hotel keepers know who
is leaving and how many rooms will be available for that night, and
the tourist office has not yet closed for the two hour lunch break.
Tourist offices close for the day early in the afternoon in
Scandinavia and Ireland. It seems that my train always arrives a
half hour too late in these countries. If the tourist office is
closed, I ask at the information office (see below), a
ticket window, or the money exchange window for a town map and
hotel list; one of these is usually able to help me. But, failing
that, I buy a town map at the newspaper kiosk in the train station
and go out on my own to find a hotel room.
Uh oh. It's 10:30 on a Friday morning. The tourist office in the Sants train station
in Barcelona, Spain is closed. Huh? The hotel booking office was also closed but everything
else in the station was open. What gives? It was a national holiday in Spain,
January 6, the Feast of the Three Kings,
Epifania. The municipal workers had the day off but everybody
else seemed to be working. I guess it pays to be a government employee.
[p1060276]
i
For connection information and special help, major train
stations typically have an office for train information. This is
marked with a large lower case i or
marked information. Try pronouncing it "een-for-mah-cee-ohn."
You normally cannot get hotel or tourist information in
these offices, but they will tell you where the tourist office is
located.
Pickpocket Central
At the risk of boring you to death with this warning, train
stations are notorious as hangouts for pickpockets and baggage
thieves. Some stations have posters to this effect, and some have periodic
warnings over the public address system. Most stations do not mention anything.
Keep your "American space" around you at all times. When you are
in a line, a "queue" to you Brits, be especially
wary of those who are trying to cut in.
Pickpockets work as a team. One
or more distracts you while another makes the lift and passes your goods to another,
never to be seen again. Hold on to your luggage at
all times and keep your wallet in a tight front pants pocket. Some travelers
use "money belts" for security but I don't see the need for these things.
I have never been robbed though a number of attempts have been made on me.
Stay alert at all times, especially in stations and within a few blocks.
Reading Timetables
Departures and arrivals are posted in each station, departures
normally on a yellow or buff-colored poster and arrivals on a white
poster. Timetables use the 24 hour clock. Therefore 16:00 or 16h00
is 4 pm to us Americans.
Codes for the days of the week go
from Monday = 1 to Sunday = 7, and codes for the months use Roman
numerals; e.g., January = I to December = XII. See chapter 28,
"Time and Dates," for more important information on this
subject.
Arrivals and departures are posted
on a single poster in the train station at Malmö, Sweden. Departures are usually
yellow or buff and arrivals are white.
[p1110163]
Luggage Lockers
Luggage lockers are almost universally available in train
stations in Europe. Usually there are three sizes available.
The depth X height X width
dimensions at Brussels Central Station
are 36"x15"x12", 36"x24"x15", and the jumbo is 36"x36"x20". This more or
less typical throughout Europe. However, lockers in some countries have a
narrower doorway than the width dimensions given here. In skiing areas you'll find
tall narrow lockers designed for your skis.
This sign at the entrance to the luggage lockers at Gare du Nord (North Train
Station) in
Paris, France announces the conditions of doing business.
The 2006 prices are €4.00, €7.00, and
€9.50 respectively for the baby, junior, and jumbo sizes for up to 48 hours.
After 48 hours
you pay much more. A lost ticket will cost
you €20.00. These
prices are higher than most in European train stations, but hey, this is Paris.
Notice the hours of business. This place is not 24/7. In fact almost nothing is
24/7 in Europe. You can expect to have your
goods x-rayed.
Once again the French have made it easy for us — the sign is in 100% English.
[p1020031]
You can leave your goods
for up to 24 or 48 hours normally. After 72 hours, station attendants may remove
the contents to the baggage checkroom. You'll pay again to retrieve
your belongings. Baggage checkrooms are almost always available in
stations if your bag doesn't fit in a locker or if all of the
lockers are full.
Bike Rentals
In Holland and Belgium, bicycle rental offices are generally in
or handy to the station. Before renting a bicycle, check it out mechanically. Make sure
the lights, bell, and brakes work. Drive it around the block to
make sure you are comfortable and secure on it. Bring it back
immediately for adjustments if there is anything wrong.
The price for a day's bicycle rental is about
what you would pay for lunch. Leave your International Driving
Permit as security, not your passport. You'll probably need your
passport during the day and you don't want it lying there amongst
some oily papers and receipts. In fact in Holland you are required
to have your passport with you at all times.
Other Facilities
Banks and/or foreign money exchange companies are established in
the larger train stations. There is usually a line waiting. There
is probably a bank cash machine where you can use your ATM card,
and it probably offers a slightly better exchange rate. But chances
are that your home bank will charge you $5.00 per transaction. In
countries where the euro is not accepted you'll see money exchange stores,
not only in the station but throughout the cities.
Many train stations also have snack bars, drink bars,
restaurants, showers, toilets, post offices, newsstands, grocery stores, and candy
stands. Major stations have been expanded underground to include large
shopping centers. Train stations are good places to do after hours
shopping. Stores in western Europe generally close at 6 or 7 pm, even
earlier on Saturday, and are not open on Sunday. Major city train
station markets selling everything from bananas to birthday cards
are often open until midnight, and on Sunday.
An Ibis Hotel is located in the main train station in Düsseldorf,
Germany. Ibis is a reasonably priced chain with hotels throughout Europe.
[p1100039]
This entrance to the men's room in the Prague, Czech Republic
train station shows the price of entry at 5 koruns, about 20 cents. A shower costs 40 koruns,
about $1.60. Use the potty on the train and save a couple of dimes.
[p1210249]
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