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Chapter 17
(part 1 of 4 parts)
of
HOW TO EUROPE
The Complete Travelers Handbook
Internet edition. Photographs by the author.
A page from
Enjoy-Europe.com
by
John Bermont
I rode this ICE, appropriately named the "Amsterdam,"
into Amsterdam's Centraal Station while looking over the shoulder of the train
pilot, or whatever you call the driver of this beauty.
[p1230436]
On the rails is the way to go in Europe!
Trains are the
best way to enjoy travel in Europe, and the most relaxing
travel this side of a rocking chair.
TRAIN SERVICE
Train service in Europe includes normal trains and the newer slick
high speed premium service trains.
First & Second Class
In most normal trains there are two classes of service, first
and second. First class seating is plusher and roomier, and there
are usually more seats available. Second class is filled up more
often than first even though it has more seats on most trains. Most
people travel in the second class cars. First class costs about 50%
more than second class, but you get there at the same time.
High Speed Service
In addition to the "normal" trains, there are special high speed
trains available in a few countries. The first European high speed
train was the French TGV, or Train à Grande
Vitesse (High Speed Train). Similar trains include the
Thalys which runs from Paris
to Amsterdam via Brussels and the Eurostar which makes the
run through the Chunnel, connecting London with Paris and Brussels.
In Germany the premium high speed train is the ICE
(InterCity Express) and in Spain it is the AVE
(Alta Velocidad Española).
What do they mean by high speed?
This is considered to be anywhere from 200 km/hr to 300 km/hr, or
125 MPH to 185 MPH. That's pretty fast, especially when you
consider that the trains go from city center to city center, though not
at full speed within the city limits. In
addition to the high speed, comfort and amenities on board are much
better than on the normal trains.
TEE (Trans-Europe Express) trains of a generation
ago were exclusively first class. They were formerly the top of the
line but have been phased out by TGV, ICE, and the
other high speed trains. The premium trains of today normally have two
classes of service.
The insides look
something like a plane and it rides at least as well as one with no
air turbulence. But this happens to be a train, the Train
à Grande Vitesse (High Speed Train). She cruises at over 130 mph. This is a
first class car with 2+1 seating. Second class has 2+2 seating. Luggage
racks are above the seats, and additional luggage space is provided
near the door. You can see some luggage peeping over the ledge above. Half
of the seats face one direction and the other half in the other direction.
The TGV, as it's commonly referred to, is
only available on major long distance lines in France, with
connections to Geneva, Switzerland and to Amsterdam, The Netherlands,
via the Thalys company. Other countries in Europe have
similar high speed train service.
[p1070327]
TICKETS
Do not board a train without a ticket. If you do it will be
embarrassing and expensive when the conductor comes around. Also,
don't try to hide in the toilet. The conductors know all the tricks and
have keys to everything.
This is a typical train ticket in Europe. It happens to be for my trip od/von/de
(from, in Polish, German, and French) Krakow, Poland do/nach/a (to)
Prague, Czech Republic. If the ticket was for a reserved seat the asterisks would be dates
and times of departure and arrival but this is an open ticket Wazny/Gueltig
(valid, in Polish and German) for 60 days from January 8, 2006. The price is shown in Polish
zlotych and in euros. Conductors have stamped it twice.
[1754]
Ticket Windows
Train tickets are sold at windows in every station. Look for the
symbol of two overlapping rectangles with numbers 1 and 2 above the
window. There is usually a line of people waiting. In many stations, international
tickets are sold at separate windows or in a room set aside from the main
hall. If you ask for an international ticket at a window where it is not available
the clerk will tell you straightaway, maybe in English.
Save time and maybe aggravation
at the ticket window. Buy your train ticket from Fahrkarten (ticket) machines
like this one in Düsseldorf, Germany. Other countries have similar
dispensers. These machines generally accept coins, bank notes, and plastic, but usually only
European plastic. It's too small to see in this image but the price for kids is the same as for dogs.
[p1100033]
Ticket Stamps
Before boarding a train in some countries you must stamp your
ticket. In the station hall or on the platform are orange, yellow,
or red metal boxes with a slot in the side. Put your ticket in the
slot and the machine will date stamp it. If you forget to stamp your
ticket you are liable for a severe fine. It will cost. If you
tell the conductor of your error before he discovers it the penalty
should be considerably less. You know how to plead for mercy, don't you? I saw
one fat-butt Ameican business man in a fine three piece suit throw a tantrum like
a spoiled brat when he was caught. He even tried to bribe the conductor with a
Churchill cigar.
Surcharges
Supplements to normal fares are required on the high speed TGV, Talgo,
IC, Thalys, ICE
and other trains because they get you there faster with fewer
stops. If you are traveling on a rail pass you may or may not need
to pay extra. Look carefully at the conditions of your pass.
Many of these high speed trains also require a reservation. There
goes some more cash, usually, even for Eurailpass holders.
You'll have to pony up unless you want to ride a normal
train. That is difficult to do between Brussels and Paris. It seems that Thalys
has a near monopoly on this line, and the supplement costs €20. Ouch! Even with
a Eurailpass you pay the €20 plus a €3 reservation fee. Most trains
in Europe charge €3 for a seat reservation.
If you pay for a ticket, reservation, or supplement, make sure
that all of the information on it is correct. In paying for a
supplement on an Italian train, I did not notice that the conductor
had put the wrong date on it. An hour later the crew changed and a
more attentive conductor noticed that I was traveling on a
supplement that was apparently two days old. He tried to charge me
again, but I convinced him that the other conductor had made a
mistake, or at least he gave up trying to collect after my
protests. Notice that dates in Europe are written in dd/mm/yy format,
not mm/dd/yy as we do in the USA. See chapter 28 "Time and Dates in Europe"
for more information on this topic.
They could hardly make it easier. This ticket machine in Lisbon, Portugal
allows you to buy tickets for 4 types of trains, Alfa Pendular, InterCity,
InterRegional, and Regional using your VISA credit or debit card,
however sometimes American cards do not work in machines like this. The
tactile screen also allows you to get schedules and learn when the next
few trains depart. If you don't read Portuguese press the Union Jack for English or the
tricolore for French. Click on the picture to see it in greater detail.
[p1040185]
RAIL PASSES
Better than a pocketful of tickets is one of the rail passes.
These take one of several forms. The best known and most useful is
the Eurailpass.
Eurailpass
Eurailpass is a joint project of the national rail
companies of 18 countries in Europe. The notable
non-participant is the United Kingdom. Britain has its own rail pass
program. A regular Eurailpass provides unlimited first class
travel throughout the member countries. You can travel from Norway
to Greece to Portugal, cross Hungary and Romania all the way to the Black
Sea, and ferry on over to Ireland and use the
rails over there. It's all included. This gives you transportation
so cheap that it will remind you of 70¢ per gallon gasoline.
Additionally, and just as importantly, the Eurailpass
gives you a freedom which you've never known before. Just go to a
station and get on the next train to wherever strikes your fancy.
When you get to wherever and if you are not happy with what you
found, just hop on another train. You've got a carte blanche pass
that you can use 24 hours a day. I've met travelers who have lived
on the trains for months. If you can't find a suitable hotel before
your bed time, just go to the train station and get on a long
distance train. I have often used overnighters to save a hotel
expense.
There are many different rail passes, varying in length of time
covered and other features. Regular Eurailpass is available
for consecutive first class travel for 15 days, 21 days, one month,
two months, and three months. The price goes up as the number of
weeks increases, but not proportionally. A three month pass works
out to less than $19 per day, while a one month pass is about $33
per day.
Eurailpass Flexi offers lower overall cost but restricted
travel, say 10 or 15 days out of a two month period. With this one
you don't feel like you're wasting your assets if you hang around
in Rome for a few days. But your cost per day on the rails is much
higher, about $63 per day for the 15 day deal. You have to start
looking at the cost of individual tickets or have some serious
travel plans, and that takes much of the fun out of railing around
Europe.
Another pass called the Eurail Selectpass allows unlimited travel
for 10 or 15 days in a two month period, but for 3 to 5 contiguous countries
of the Eurailpass program.
There are another half
dozen types of Eurailpasses available. For example,
Eurailpass Saver is a special arrangement for two or more
traveling together. This family plan saves you about 15% over
individual passes.
Eurailpass Youth is for those under 26
years old and is valid for second class travel. The cost is less than
$13 per day for a three month pass and a one month pass comes in at
about $21 per day.
This map in the Vilnius station shows the meager rail system in Lithuania.
Notice that there is no track connecting Lithuania with its Baltic neighbor to
the north, Latvia. I came in on a bus from Riga. And the rail connection to the south was so poor that I took
a bus to Warsaw, Poland. Click on the picture to see it in greater detail.
[p1180135]
Buying a Eurailpass
The Eurailpass can only be purchased outside of Europe,
or so they say. Your travel agent may tell you that it takes a week to
get the pass. I've used Eurailpasses a number of times and
my experience is that it takes less time. I bought my
January 2006 pass over the internet from the Rail Europe company and it was delivered in
three days. Contact Rail Europe on the internet at
Eurail Pass .
Eurailpass
is not transferable and is only valid with your passport. The conductors in Holland almost always
ask to see your passport, but they seldom ask in any other country.
Having given you this information, a slight correction is in
order. American Eurailpass issuers want you to believe that
the Eurailpass is only available in the USA. I guess it's a
marketing or business approach. Not only did I buy one in Arabia,
I have bought Eurailpasses in Paris, and have read that it
can be done at Eurail aid offices in other cities in Europe, for a 10% premium
over the cost at home. So if you are already in Europe visit a Eurail office
with your passport and credit card, or cash. In Paris, the office is in the
Gare St. Lazare just off the main hall. A number of other
passes are also available there, most of which are less expensive
but also less versatile. However if you are a resident of Europe you cannot buy
a Eurailpass.
Validating
As soon as you receive your Eurailpass read the "Conditions of Use." This is
the small print on the back of the pass. Follow directions, exactly. Also read the other information
that comes with your pass. The Eurail Pass
folks send along a valuable booklet titled Eurail Traveler's Guide. Do yourself a
really big favor and read it.
Eurailpass cannot be used and its period does not start
until it is validated. It must be validated in Europe before getting
on your first train. To do this, present it at the ticket window in
any station and the agent will enter the starting and ending dates
(in the European system: day/month/year). Have a calendar with you
and check these dates carefully before you leave the window. The agent will also write in your
passport number so bring your passport.
You might
want to get it validated the day before you plan to use it so you are
not standing in the ticket window line on the day of your first trip.
Do not write on the Eurailpass or attempt to erase or change anything on it yourself.
If you see a problem talk to a railroad official. Any monkey business subjects
you to having your pass confiscated, purchase of a full fare ticket
for the train you are on, and a fine of up to €100. Wow. This is serious stuff.
I have read sad stories of people who got the triple whammy so don't be a fool.
The flexible rail passes which allow so many days of travel in a month or a two month
time frame do require you to write on your pass. You must enter the day of
travel in ink before boarding the train. Once you enter the day do not attempt
to change it. And make sure you use the European date system, dd/mm/yyyy, and not
the American way of mm/dd/yyyy.
Other Rail Passes
Unlimited mileage passes are also issued by the individual
national railroads of Europe. Many countries offer special passes
to encourage visitors. Some are valid for everyone and some are
designed for families or small groups. Special super deals are
available to senior citizens, junior citizens, and students,
generally limited to those over 62 or under 26 years old. Britain,
excluding itself from the Eurailpass plan, offers its own
pass which must be purchased outside Britain. Other countries offer
special passes which can be purchased after arrival. One excellent
pass providing travel throughout all of western Europe and some of
eastern Europe is the Inter-Rail Pass. This is only
available to those under 23 who have resided in Europe for at least
six months.
RESERVATIONS
Just because you have a ticket or a rail pass does not mean that
you have a seat. Seat reservations are required for some trains,
and are highly recommended for many others.
You usually buy a reservation at any station ticket window. It
usually costs three euros but I have paid five in Switzerland. You can also reserve seats at travel
agencies in Europe. Make reservations early (at least a day in
advance) if you really want to go. Your reservation card will show
your origin and destination, the train number, the car number, and
your seat number. It will also indicate smoking (if allowed) or non-smoking and
seat position, i.e., window or aisle.
If you are not happy with the seat which was reserved for you
look around for another open seat. Just move yourself. Let the conductor
know when he comes around.
Reservation Required
Many of the superior trains such as the TGV, Thalys,
and some others mentioned at the beginning of this chapter require a
reservation. Many Swedish and a few Norwegian trains require a
reservation, though if you get on without one the conductor may
find you an empty seat and collect a reservation fee. Reservations
are required on all superior trains in Spain (no reservation fee
but there may be a supplement fee), on some in Portugal, and on
International Express trains in Italy and other
countries. Your best bet is to invest in a current copy of the
Thomas Cook European Rail Timetable to determine reservation requirements.
In addition to the premium trains, a capital R in a rectangle
at the top of the column indicates a train requiring a
reservation. You will also see this on the train departure posters in the stations.
I did not have the task of obtaining the
tickets or reservations for our odyssey across Ukraine. My host
took care of that. It is reported that obtaining tickets and
reservations is very difficult in Russia and Ukraine. Our
travels into Hungary when it was still under communist rule posed
no problems — we just got on the trains with our
Eurailpasses.
Reservation Recommended
Though seat reservations are generally not required, here are
the exceptions: I would definitely make a reservation on any train
on the Amsterdam <-> Copenhagen route, Amsterdam <-> Paris route, and other
popular routes during the summer and around the major holidays like Christmas
and Easter.
Additionally, I would reserve a seat on
International Express
and higher class trains for travel on Friday afternoons and
evenings and on Sunday afternoons and evenings throughout the year.
These trains are full of businessmen riding first class, just where
your Eurailpass will seat you.
This convenient poster directs you to all the essential
services in the Santa Apolónia train station in Lisbon, Portugal. WC is the almost
universal designation for toilets in Europe. The large lower case i indicates
train information, not tourist information.
[p1040178]
OFFICIALDOM
Don't believe or obey anyone on board except the conductor, passport
police, and customs police. And you'd better believe these folks.
Conductor
The conductor is present on the platform before the train
departs and then walks through the train checking all tickets
shortly after departure. He is the law on board, and he is the best
source of information for arrival times and connections. Conductors
are invariably courteous and helpful. They usually speak English.
Crews change on long distance trains so you may be asked for your
ticket several times on a long trip.
Passport Police
Passport police walk through the train at some border crossings.
These formalities have been eliminated at borders of most adjoining European
Union countries. Switzerland is a notable non-member of the EU and will
ask to see your passport on entry.
Passport police work in pairs and are armed with pistols. They ask to see your
passport and perhaps ask where you are coming from, going to, and
why. These guys and gals are gruff because they have a job that can
get a bit testy. Don't take it personally. Just show them the
little blue book with your smiling mug shot on the first page.
Customs
Customs police are usually right behind the passport police, if any.
These gentlemen and sometimes ladies are in uniform or in business
suits. Expect no problems in first class, but they'll normally ask
a few questions of second class passengers. They will conduct a
search if they are suspicious. If you are caught carrying illegal
substances your journey is now over. Period.
The big number 2 indicates that this is a second class train with seats
81-106 at this end. Smoking is allowed and only seating is provided,
i.e., no bunks. This is car 7. The white sign with red letters shows
that it is going from Warsaw to Krynica, Poland.
The R in the box indicates that a seat reservation is required. The Ex in the other box
indicates that it is an express train.
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