The original do-it-yourself travel guide to Europe SM

Rail, Road, and Waves
Travel Europe by Train, Bus, and Ferry

A primer for traveling the rails of Europe - first class, second class, premium trains, TGV, Thalys, Eurostar, AVE, tickets, Eurail Pass, reservations.



 



How To Europe The Complete Travelers Handbook by John Bermont
How To Europe
The Complete
Travelers Handbook
by John Bermont



Europe on a Shoestring Lonely Planet
Europe on a Shoestring
Lonely Planet



European RaiI Timetable Winter 2007 Thomas Cook
European Rail Timetable
Winter 2007
Thomas Cook




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Traveling the Eurail Express by Jay Brunhouse
Traveling the Eurail Express
by Jay Brunhouse



Rail Map Europe, 16th (Thomas Cook Rail Map)
Rail Map Europe
Thomas Cook Rail Map



Rail Map Britain & Ireland (Thomas Cook Rail Map)
Rail Map Britain & Ireland
Thomas Cook Rail Map



Europe by Eurail 2007, 31st: Touring Europe by Train by LaVerne Ferguson-Kosinski
Europe by Eurail 2007
by LaVerne Ferguson-Kosinski



Michelin Guide 2007 Main Cities of Europe
Main Cities of Europe 2007
Michelin Guide




Skyway Sigma 2 22"
Vertical Expandable
Carry-On Case
Available in 4 colors




JanSport Luggage Set
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24" Rolling Upright
and Tote Bag
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Samsonite 3 Piece
Ballistic Luggage Set




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Andis 75230 1875W Quiet Travel Hair Dryer
Quiet Travel Hair Dryer
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USA to Continental Europe




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USA to Continental Europe




Grounded Adapter
USA to England & newer buildings in Ireland




Adapter Plug
Great Britain




Grounded Adapter
Europe to Swiss




Grounded Adapter
UK & Australia to Europe




Grounded Transformer
USA to Europe
50 Watts, 220v to 110v




Worldwide Battery Charger
with 4 AA NiMH Batteries
by Sony




Eforcity Universal USB
Car Charger Adapter
for Palm m500
and many other devices.




Belkin F8E449 Universal AC Travel Adapter.




The Stormbreaker
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Chapter 17 (part 1 of 4 parts) of
HOW TO EUROPE
The Complete Travelers Handbook
Internet edition. Photographs by the author.
A page from Enjoy-Europe.com by John Bermont
An Inter City Express just arrived in Amsterdam, The Netherlands. http://www.enjoy-europe.com/hte/chap17/p1230436a.jpg
I rode this ICE, appropriately named the "Amsterdam," into Amsterdam's Centraal Station while looking over the shoulder of the train pilot, or whatever you call the driver of this beauty. [p1230436]

On the rails is the way to go in Europe!

Trains are the best way to enjoy travel in Europe, and the most relaxing travel this side of a rocking chair.

TRAIN SERVICE

Train service in Europe includes normal trains and the newer slick high speed premium service trains.

First & Second Class

In most normal trains there are two classes of service, first and second. First class seating is plusher and roomier, and there are usually more seats available. Second class is filled up more often than first even though it has more seats on most trains. Most people travel in the second class cars. First class costs about 50% more than second class, but you get there at the same time.

High Speed Service

In addition to the "normal" trains, there are special high speed trains available in a few countries. The first European high speed train was the French TGV, or Train à Grande Vitesse (High Speed Train). Similar trains include the Thalys which runs from Paris to Amsterdam via Brussels and the Eurostar which makes the run through the Chunnel, connecting London with Paris and Brussels. In Germany the premium high speed train is the ICE (InterCity Express) and in Spain it is the AVE (Alta Velocidad Española).

What do they mean by high speed? This is considered to be anywhere from 200 km/hr to 300 km/hr, or 125 MPH to 185 MPH. That's pretty fast, especially when you consider that the trains go from city center to city center, though not at full speed within the city limits. In addition to the high speed, comfort and amenities on board are much better than on the normal trains.

TEE (Trans-Europe Express) trains of a generation ago were exclusively first class. They were formerly the top of the line but have been phased out by TGV, ICE, and the other high speed trains. The premium trains of today normally have two classes of service.

Interior of a first class TGV train car in France running from Marseilles to Lyon. http://www.enjoy-europe.com/hte/chap17/p1070327.jpg The insides look something like a plane and it rides at least as well as one with no air turbulence. But this happens to be a train, the Train à Grande Vitesse (High Speed Train). She cruises at over 130 mph. This is a first class car with 2+1 seating. Second class has 2+2 seating. Luggage racks are above the seats, and additional luggage space is provided near the door. You can see some luggage peeping over the ledge above. Half of the seats face one direction and the other half in the other direction. The TGV, as it's commonly referred to, is only available on major long distance lines in France, with connections to Geneva, Switzerland and to Amsterdam, The Netherlands, via the Thalys company. Other countries in Europe have similar high speed train service. [p1070327]

TICKETS

Do not board a train without a ticket. If you do it will be embarrassing and expensive when the conductor comes around. Also, don't try to hide in the toilet. The conductors know all the tricks and have keys to everything.

Typical European train ticket, from Krakow, Poland to Prague, Czech Republic. http://www.enjoy-europe.com/hte/chap17/1754-060417.jpg
This is a typical train ticket in Europe. It happens to be for my trip od/von/de (from, in Polish, German, and French) Krakow, Poland do/nach/a (to) Prague, Czech Republic. If the ticket was for a reserved seat the asterisks would be dates and times of departure and arrival but this is an open ticket Wazny/Gueltig (valid, in Polish and German) for 60 days from January 8, 2006. The price is shown in Polish zlotych and in euros. Conductors have stamped it twice. [1754]

Ticket Windows

Train tickets are sold at windows in every station. Look for the symbol of two overlapping rectangles with numbers 1 and 2 above the window. There is usually a line of people waiting. In many stations, international tickets are sold at separate windows or in a room set aside from the main hall. If you ask for an international ticket at a window where it is not available the clerk will tell you straightaway, maybe in English. Train ticket machine in Duesseldorf, Germany. http://www.enjoy-europe.com/hte/chap17/p1100033.jpg



Save time and maybe aggravation at the ticket window. Buy your train ticket from
Fahrkarten (ticket) machines like this one in Düsseldorf, Germany. Other countries have similar dispensers. These machines generally accept coins, bank notes, and plastic, but usually only European plastic. It's too small to see in this image but the price for kids is the same as for dogs. [p1100033]

Ticket Stamps

Before boarding a train in some countries you must stamp your ticket. In the station hall or on the platform are orange, yellow, or red metal boxes with a slot in the side. Put your ticket in the slot and the machine will date stamp it. If you forget to stamp your ticket you are liable for a severe fine. It will cost. If you tell the conductor of your error before he discovers it the penalty should be considerably less. You know how to plead for mercy, don't you? I saw one fat-butt Ameican business man in a fine three piece suit throw a tantrum like a spoiled brat when he was caught. He even tried to bribe the conductor with a Churchill cigar.

Surcharges

Supplements to normal fares are required on the high speed TGV, Talgo, IC, Thalys, ICE and other trains because they get you there faster with fewer stops. If you are traveling on a rail pass you may or may not need to pay extra. Look carefully at the conditions of your pass.

Many of these high speed trains also require a reservation. There goes some more cash, usually, even for Eurailpass holders. You'll have to pony up unless you want to ride a normal train. That is difficult to do between Brussels and Paris. It seems that Thalys has a near monopoly on this line, and the supplement costs €20. Ouch! Even with a Eurailpass you pay the €20 plus a €3 reservation fee. Most trains in Europe charge €3 for a seat reservation.

If you pay for a ticket, reservation, or supplement, make sure that all of the information on it is correct. In paying for a supplement on an Italian train, I did not notice that the conductor had put the wrong date on it. An hour later the crew changed and a more attentive conductor noticed that I was traveling on a supplement that was apparently two days old. He tried to charge me again, but I convinced him that the other conductor had made a mistake, or at least he gave up trying to collect after my protests. Notice that dates in Europe are written in dd/mm/yy format, not mm/dd/yy as we do in the USA. See chapter 28 "Time and Dates in Europe" for more information on this topic. Train ticket machine in Lisbon, Portugal. http://www.enjoy-europe.com/hte/chap17/p1040185.jpg



They could hardly make it easier. This ticket machine in Lisbon, Portugal allows you to buy tickets for 4 types of trains,
Alfa Pendular, InterCity, InterRegional, and Regional using your VISA credit or debit card, however sometimes American cards do not work in machines like this. The tactile screen also allows you to get schedules and learn when the next few trains depart. If you don't read Portuguese press the Union Jack for English or the tricolore for French. Click on the picture to see it in greater detail. [p1040185]

RAIL PASSES

Better than a pocketful of tickets is one of the rail passes. These take one of several forms. The best known and most useful is the Eurailpass.

Eurailpass

Eurailpass is a joint project of the national rail companies of 18 countries in Europe. The notable non-participant is the United Kingdom. Britain has its own rail pass program. A regular Eurailpass provides unlimited first class travel throughout the member countries. You can travel from Norway to Greece to Portugal, cross Hungary and Romania all the way to the Black Sea, and ferry on over to Ireland and use the rails over there. It's all included. This gives you transportation so cheap that it will remind you of 70¢ per gallon gasoline.

Additionally, and just as importantly, the Eurailpass gives you a freedom which you've never known before. Just go to a station and get on the next train to wherever strikes your fancy. When you get to wherever and if you are not happy with what you found, just hop on another train. You've got a carte blanche pass that you can use 24 hours a day. I've met travelers who have lived on the trains for months. If you can't find a suitable hotel before your bed time, just go to the train station and get on a long distance train. I have often used overnighters to save a hotel expense.

There are many different rail passes, varying in length of time covered and other features. Regular Eurailpass is available for consecutive first class travel for 15 days, 21 days, one month, two months, and three months. The price goes up as the number of weeks increases, but not proportionally. A three month pass works out to less than $19 per day, while a one month pass is about $33 per day.

Eurailpass Flexi offers lower overall cost but restricted travel, say 10 or 15 days out of a two month period. With this one you don't feel like you're wasting your assets if you hang around in Rome for a few days. But your cost per day on the rails is much higher, about $63 per day for the 15 day deal. You have to start looking at the cost of individual tickets or have some serious travel plans, and that takes much of the fun out of railing around Europe.

Another pass called the Eurail Selectpass allows unlimited travel for 10 or 15 days in a two month period, but for 3 to 5 contiguous countries of the Eurailpass program.

There are another half dozen types of Eurailpasses available. For example, Eurailpass Saver is a special arrangement for two or more traveling together. This family plan saves you about 15% over individual passes.

Eurailpass Youth is for those under 26 years old and is valid for second class travel. The cost is less than $13 per day for a three month pass and a one month pass comes in at about $21 per day.

Rail map of trains in Lithuania. http://www.enjoy-europe.com/hte/chap17/p1180135.jpg This map in the Vilnius station shows the meager rail system in Lithuania. Notice that there is no track connecting Lithuania with its Baltic neighbor to the north, Latvia. I came in on a bus from Riga. And the rail connection to the south was so poor that I took a bus to Warsaw, Poland. Click on the picture to see it in greater detail. [p1180135]

Buying a Eurailpass

The Eurailpass can only be purchased outside of Europe, or so they say. Your travel agent may tell you that it takes a week to get the pass. I've used Eurailpasses a number of times and my experience is that it takes less time. I bought my January 2006 pass over the internet from the Rail Europe company and it was delivered in three days. Contact Rail Europe on the internet at Eurail Pass. Eurailpass is not transferable and is only valid with your passport. The conductors in Holland almost always ask to see your passport, but they seldom ask in any other country.

Having given you this information, a slight correction is in order. American Eurailpass issuers want you to believe that the Eurailpass is only available in the USA. I guess it's a marketing or business approach. Not only did I buy one in Arabia, I have bought Eurailpasses in Paris, and have read that it can be done at Eurail aid offices in other cities in Europe, for a 10% premium over the cost at home. So if you are already in Europe visit a Eurail office with your passport and credit card, or cash. In Paris, the office is in the Gare St. Lazare just off the main hall. A number of other passes are also available there, most of which are less expensive but also less versatile. However if you are a resident of Europe you cannot buy a Eurailpass.

Validating

As soon as you receive your Eurailpass read the "Conditions of Use." This is the small print on the back of the pass. Follow directions, exactly. Also read the other information that comes with your pass. The Eurail Pass folks send along a valuable booklet titled Eurail Traveler's Guide. Do yourself a really big favor and read it.

Eurailpass cannot be used and its period does not start until it is validated. It must be validated in Europe before getting on your first train. To do this, present it at the ticket window in any station and the agent will enter the starting and ending dates (in the European system: day/month/year). Have a calendar with you and check these dates carefully before you leave the window. The agent will also write in your passport number so bring your passport. You might want to get it validated the day before you plan to use it so you are not standing in the ticket window line on the day of your first trip.

Do not write on the Eurailpass or attempt to erase or change anything on it yourself. If you see a problem talk to a railroad official. Any monkey business subjects you to having your pass confiscated, purchase of a full fare ticket for the train you are on, and a fine of up to €100. Wow. This is serious stuff. I have read sad stories of people who got the triple whammy so don't be a fool.

The flexible rail passes which allow so many days of travel in a month or a two month time frame do require you to write on your pass. You must enter the day of travel in ink before boarding the train. Once you enter the day do not attempt to change it. And make sure you use the European date system, dd/mm/yyyy, and not the American way of mm/dd/yyyy.

Other Rail Passes

Unlimited mileage passes are also issued by the individual national railroads of Europe. Many countries offer special passes to encourage visitors. Some are valid for everyone and some are designed for families or small groups. Special super deals are available to senior citizens, junior citizens, and students, generally limited to those over 62 or under 26 years old. Britain, excluding itself from the Eurailpass plan, offers its own pass which must be purchased outside Britain. Other countries offer special passes which can be purchased after arrival. One excellent pass providing travel throughout all of western Europe and some of eastern Europe is the Inter-Rail Pass. This is only available to those under 23 who have resided in Europe for at least six months.

RESERVATIONS

Just because you have a ticket or a rail pass does not mean that you have a seat. Seat reservations are required for some trains, and are highly recommended for many others.

You usually buy a reservation at any station ticket window. It usually costs three euros but I have paid five in Switzerland. You can also reserve seats at travel agencies in Europe. Make reservations early (at least a day in advance) if you really want to go. Your reservation card will show your origin and destination, the train number, the car number, and your seat number. It will also indicate smoking (if allowed) or non-smoking and seat position, i.e., window or aisle.

If you are not happy with the seat which was reserved for you look around for another open seat. Just move yourself. Let the conductor know when he comes around.

Reservation Required

Many of the superior trains such as the TGV, Thalys, and some others mentioned at the beginning of this chapter require a reservation. Many Swedish and a few Norwegian trains require a reservation, though if you get on without one the conductor may find you an empty seat and collect a reservation fee. Reservations are required on all superior trains in Spain (no reservation fee but there may be a supplement fee), on some in Portugal, and on International Express trains in Italy and other countries. Your best bet is to invest in a current copy of the Thomas Cook European Rail Timetable to determine reservation requirements. In addition to the premium trains, a capital R in a rectangle at the top of the column indicates a train requiring a reservation. You will also see this on the train departure posters in the stations.

I did not have the task of obtaining the tickets or reservations for our odyssey across Ukraine. My host took care of that. It is reported that obtaining tickets and reservations is very difficult in Russia and Ukraine. Our travels into Hungary when it was still under communist rule posed no problems — we just got on the trains with our Eurailpasses.

Reservation Recommended

Though seat reservations are generally not required, here are the exceptions: I would definitely make a reservation on any train on the Amsterdam <-> Copenhagen route, Amsterdam <-> Paris route, and other popular routes during the summer and around the major holidays like Christmas and Easter.

Additionally, I would reserve a seat on International Express and higher class trains for travel on Friday afternoons and evenings and on Sunday afternoons and evenings throughout the year. These trains are full of businessmen riding first class, just where your Eurailpass will seat you. Train information poster in Lisbn, Portugal. http://www.enjoy0europe.com/hte/chap17/p1040178.jpg


This convenient poster directs you to all the essential services in the Santa Apolónia train station in Lisbon, Portugal. WC is the almost universal designation for toilets in Europe. The large lower case i indicates train information, not tourist information. [p1040178]


OFFICIALDOM

Don't believe or obey anyone on board except the conductor, passport police, and customs police. And you'd better believe these folks.

Conductor

The conductor is present on the platform before the train departs and then walks through the train checking all tickets shortly after departure. He is the law on board, and he is the best source of information for arrival times and connections. Conductors are invariably courteous and helpful. They usually speak English. Crews change on long distance trains so you may be asked for your ticket several times on a long trip.

Passport Police

Passport police walk through the train at some border crossings. These formalities have been eliminated at borders of most adjoining European Union countries. Switzerland is a notable non-member of the EU and will ask to see your passport on entry. Passport police work in pairs and are armed with pistols. They ask to see your passport and perhaps ask where you are coming from, going to, and why. These guys and gals are gruff because they have a job that can get a bit testy. Don't take it personally. Just show them the little blue book with your smiling mug shot on the first page.

Customs

Customs police are usually right behind the passport police, if any. These gentlemen and sometimes ladies are in uniform or in business suits. Expect no problems in first class, but they'll normally ask a few questions of second class passengers. They will conduct a search if they are suspicious. If you are caught carrying illegal substances your journey is now over. Period. An express train in Poland from Warsaw to Krynica.; http://www.enjoy-europe.com/hte/chap17/p1200190.jpg


The big number 2 indicates that this is a second class train with seats 81-106 at this end. Smoking is allowed and only seating is provided, i.e., no bunks. This is car 7. The white sign with red letters shows that it is going from Warsaw to Krynica, Poland. The R in the box indicates that a seat reservation is required. The Ex in the other box indicates that it is an express train. [p1200190]


This is the end of Part 1.
To continue reading chapter 17 click to Part 2.

This internet edition of chapter 17 is in 4 parts due to its large size.
Part 1 classes of service, train tickets, Eurailpass, other rail passes, reservations, official business
Part 2 finding your station, finding your train, finding your car, luggage, on-board train facilities, eating on the train.
Part 3 sleeping on night trains, night train reservations, night train facilities, departure and destination procedures, potpourri, train station facilities.
Part 4 international buses and ferry services. Sometimes there are no train tracks!


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HOW TO EUROPE
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Rail, Road, and Waves:
Travel Europe by Train, Bus, and Ferry