Melding with Europe
Travel Is Interesting and Entertaining
Europe is not a zoo where you peer into the cages. Get your buttocks off the bus and meet the locals.
Your Go-To Travel Store
In the heart of Haarlem these signs point you to places of interest. The red bordered signs are for the benefit of bicyclers, an excellent way to get around in Holland. The numbers next to the destinations indicate the distance in kilometers. See chapter 27 Europe's Metric System to get up to speed on that. The green number 22 shows the direction to point 22 of the bicycler's network. A bike map is very handy.
The other sign points to places within walking distance. The cafes and the herring wagon at the Botermarkt are favorites of mine. Haarlem has enough to keep you going for at least a day. I spent 5 weeks there in 2015.
Carpe diem. Vivere bene! Gratia Deo.
This is chapter 30. The entire book is published free on-line by the DIY traveler, author, photographer, and webmaster —yours truly— with help from my daughter Stephanie and good friend Paula in Haarlem, Nord Holland, Netherlands. Questions, comments, complaints, and contributions are welcome. Please click footnote. Patronage at my euro-shoppe™ keeps this site on line. Updated .
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MANY CHOICE CHOICES
Selecting your itinerary from the cornucopia of Europe requires careful preparation. It's all a matter of personal taste. You don't have to visit museums if you would rather go on a balloon flight or go to a bull fight or sit at a cafe and meet someone new.
Uh, No Thanks
As an example, one of the most highly recommended items in all of the popular travel guidebooks, TV travel shows, and guided tours is the Amsterdam Canals Boat Excursion. I took this ride and I have a different opinion. It is a waste of time and money. You're stuffed into this long boat with a curved plexiglass roof, you and 80 other tourists. In four languages, over a miserable speaker system, you listen to a tape recording of stupendous facts and statistics about the places you are floating by. Good luck ever finding these places again as you walk around. I was not the only one bored on board. On top of that, it seemed that the boat was going to be swamped by a huge freighter when it got out in the middle of the harbor What in Amsterdam's name were we doing out in the harbor?
It's Amazing
On the other hand, one of the most fascinating exhibits in Europe is usually left out of the popular guidebooks. Sins of omission are far from the major problems with these books. Virtually every one I open has errors so stupid that the only possible explanation is that the author did not go to the place mentioned. See chapter 10, Guide Books and Maps: Tomes for Travel in Europe, for reviews of the popular guidebooks. Back to my story. My site to visit is the intact 17th century armory at Graz, Austria. It is stocked with some 30,000 weapons and sets of armor of all sorts, some dating to the early 1500s. I wouldn't have known that this place exists except that the Michelin Green Guide Austria gives Graz two stars, worth a detour. I bid three stars and worth a return visit.
Your Million Dollar Trip
This chapter presents a few of the things that I have seen and/or done in Europe, from the somber to the frivolous. You'll learn something about me from this, but you'll also learn a bit more about Europe.
If you are looking for a ring-in-your-nose guide, this chapter will be a disappointment. Many guide book authors are rather arrogant and opinionated about what to do or see, as if everyone shares their point of view. There are literally hundreds of books wherein the authors give their perspective on the sights and events. The better authors just present the facts. You decide what is best for you. My recommendations for good guide books (and there are plenty of bad ones) are to be found in the aforementioned chapter 10.
In advance, learn as much as possible about the places you will visit and only do those things that suit your personal fancy. It's impossible to see and do everything, unless you have five years and an extra million dollars burning a hole in your pocket.
HOW TO TOUR
There are two basic ways to travel — on a package tour or on your own.
Package Tour
The tourist on the packaged 15-day tour will have already decided what he will see and do by having placed him/herself in the hands of a tour operator. The cities and routes are planned out and the names of the hotels might be available. The bus will be parked in front of your hotel with the engine running at 6 am. All you have to do is get your suitcase to the curb, have breakfast, and then get on board. Enjoy the ride. When you arrive in another city down the road, after passing hundreds of worthwhile places to visit, you and the other bovines are herded off the bus into your luxury or budget hotel, as your case may be. You probably won't know where you are. Collect your bag and key, and unpack again. Later on, a guide will meet your group and tour you through the museums and cathedrals listed in the tour booklet.
The tour buses make regular pit stops where you have a chance to buy trinkets, use the potty, and have lunch. The shops and cafes probably have annual contracts with the tour operator which bring them the captive business.
I have never done one of these tours but have seen plenty of them in action in my travels, and I've read many tour brochures. If you want to sit on a bus looking out a window for up to six hours a day, some of the time stuck in the impossible big city traffic jams, this is for you. You are hardly seeing Europe any more than if you had stayed home and watched the travel channel. If you take a package tour, I hope that you have set aside enough time after the tour to actually see some of Europe on your own.
City Tours
If you are traveling on your own you have the opportunity to select individual city tours. In any city the number of guided tours is more or less proportional to the size of the metropolis. In big cities you'll also find tours of neighboring regions. Pick up brochures in city tourist offices and in commercial tour offices located in downtown areas. Your hotel desk clerk will probably be trying to sell you a tour, and look for promo brochures on the table in your room.
Open-top Hop-On Hop-Off, "HO HO," buses are a feature of many major tourist cities. This is one of them in Rome Italy. This is a great way to get a quick introduction to any city. You can get off and on at will at any of numerous scheduled stops, usually near a major attraction. [Photo by Stephanie.]
I have taken some of these city tours. They are good for openers, but in all of them the guide mechanically recites the lines describing the place, along with data and dates of questionable relevance. Sometimes the "speach" is from a recording. The drone put me to sleep on one guided city bus tour. The guide is on a schedule so there is little time to dwell on an interesting exhibit.
The guides usually speak English, with a heavy accent. I have been on some guided tours of museums in France where only French and German were spoken. When the guide held out his hand expecting a tip for the tour, I kept my hand in my pocket. On a walking gastronomic tour of Haarlem the guide spoke only Dutch but I could understand most of it. We ate so much I could hardly move. My open top bus tour of Edinburgh was narrated by a local gent speaking a heavy Scottish, understandable only to other locals.
Strategic Positioning
When taking a guided tour, it is essential to get in the front of the bus or at a side on the top deck. Stay next to the guide on a walking tour. This way you can get in questions about things you don't understand, or inquire about interesting objects which aren't covered by the standard speech. The guide usually has time for a little chitchat between sights and exhibits and welcomes the opportunity to reply to curious visitors. It indicates that you are interested and gives the guide an opportunity to use some words that aren't in the standard dialogue.
Self Touring
All of the things on a guided bus tour can be seen more cheaply with the help of a good guidebook and the public transportation system. The do-it-yourself traveler has to find his own way about, find a hotel, locate restaurants, and handle a number of mundane chores in order to enjoy the paintings and cathedrals. Since you have read this far in How To Europe, you know the basics and are probably anxious to start putting some of these do-it-yourself traveling techniques to work. Be an independent traveler and become a part of the scene — thus the title of this chapter, "Melding With Europe."
The Guide
The first thing you need for self touring is a good guide book. Use the Michelin Green Guides for France, Britain, Italy, Germany, Holland, Spain, and the other countries for which they are published. Michelin Green Guides are available for different regions of France, e.g. Burgundy and The Riviera, and for Paris. If buying your copy in Europe, make sure that it is the English language edition, unless you can read French. These books are classics for travelers. They include historical sketches of the country, short vocabulary lists, general maps of the country and regions, useful information on local laws, customs, prices, driving, suggested itineraries for one to three week auto tours, bibliography, and a detailed discussion and map of every significant city, town, and region in the country. This includes scaled maps showing tourist offices, post offices, and city halls, along with museums, cathedrals, and other items of interest. Major museums are discussed in detail, giving floor plans. locations, open hours, and descriptions of the works in each room. Go with Michelin Green.
For the compleat European traveler I recommend Lonely Planet's Europe on a Shoestring. This is an encyclopedic guidebook covering all of Europe, and I mean all of Europe.
Free Guides
When traveling on your own, you may occasionally be offered native bilingual guide service. An individual guide may sound like an expensive way to travel, but I have had several and at absolutely no cost. It was with a bit of luck I admit, but ordinary citizens in some cities that don't see many Americans have proudly marched me through the town and its cathedrals, helped me find a hotel, and bought me coffee or a beer. One was an unpleasant experience (which I should have recognized beforehand), but many others were favorable. In L'viv, Ukraine I had probably the best help of any city I have been in. It was not too many years ago that imminent war between the USA and USSR was feared. If you are offered free guide service, seriously consider canceling your previous plans, if any, and accepting the offer.
BASING
By "basing" I mean where you are going to sleep and store your luggage while you are out seeing the sights and doing the town.
Gotham City
Most travelers go to the major cities because that is where the big cathedrals and museums are parked. But you don't have to put up with the big city all day long. With excellent public transportation available everywhere, you can stay in a medium sized city nearby and commute to the big city. Eurailpass and local public transport passes make this especially convenient. In a smaller city, you are off the beaten tourist trail and more out of the way of pickpockets, high prices for rooms and food, and pushy hucksters. Things you can't measure are the friendlier atmosphere and genuine welcome from almost everyone you meet in the smaller out of the way places. You'll also find it more convenient to visit other sights and events in the countryside.
Bucolic Living
As an example, when you are in Holland base yourself in Haarlem rather than Amsterdam. There are six trains an hour from Haarlem making the 15 to 18 minute trip to the heart of Amsterdam. Riding a Dutch train should be part of your European experience. But beware of Pickpockets in stations and on trains, especially when boarding.
The citizens will justifiably hang the city council if they ever dare to mess around with the classic Haarlem train stattion. There are zillions of bicycles scattered around the station, plus thousands more in a huge underground free garage plus hundreds more in a pay-to-park cavern inside the station.
Besides being convenient to Amsterdam, Haarlem itself features a couple of impressive cathedrals — Sint Bavokerk which is usually referred to as the Grote Kerk (the Big Church) and the Basiliek Sint Bavo. Museums include the Frans Hals and Tylers. The Cruquius Exposition is a huge 150 year old steam engine used to pump the water out of Lake Haarlem. This lake is now a polder in which Amsterdam's Schiphol Airport resides, about 15 feet below sea level. Near Haarlem you'll find Keukenhof (magnificent flower garden in spring), Zandvoort (beach, casino, and race track), Alkmaar (Friday cheese market), and Kennemerland (dunes with bike paths). There are many other sights dating back to the 17th century. I spent five weeks in Haarlem in the summer of 2015, wishing more and more as my departure approached that the pilots would go on strike. I love Haarlem.
You do not have to go to museums and such all the time. Join the laid back locals at cafes throughout Haarlem and make new friends. Most of the cafe scene is centered around the Grote Markt and the Big Church but locals are more likely to be found elsewhere, here at the Boter Markt for example. There is always a fish wagon on hand with raw herring and many other choices. There is a produce market a couple of times a week which also has cheese and bread stands.
Haarlem is convenient to Schiphol Airport. Use the big red reticulated bus number 300 or 300R from the airport direct to the Haarlem train station or to the V+D department store adjacent to the Boter Markt. The VVV Tourist Information office of the city of Haarlem is located at the Grote Markt opposite the Big Church. That's about a 15 minute walk from the station. The VVV will get you oriented and help you find a hotel, hostel, or B&B. Several budget hotels near the Big Church offer a good choice, along with a couple of upscale business hotels in the city. Or book in advance at the B&B Paula on the west side of the city to really save money and have a small apartment to spread out in, including a generous Dutch breakfast in your sitting room. Haarlem hotel rooms are generally the size of match boxes. Paula is a long time good friend of mine and she doesn't mind when I toot her horn on my site. The Haarlem train station rents bicycles with daily rates for less than the price of lunch. You'll have a long time looking for a better place to ride a bike.
These are just a few specifics about a place I am fortunate to know well. I first lived in Haarlem from 1975-77 and then spent most of 1997 through 1999 here. Not all major cities can boast of a nearby jewel like Haarlem, but all do have suburbs easily accessible by public transportation and which offer tourists unique and favorable experiences not available in the big capital cities. You will get a much more balanced image of the people in each country. After all, would you think that a European visiting the USA should go to New York City and/or Washington D.C. and/or Los Angeles and home again? Duh.
SIGHTS AND PURSUITS
My catalogue of things to do and see in Europe is presented in no particular order. It is meant to be a mere introduction to the nearly infinite range of activities possible in your travels. It is certainly not complete since it does not dwell on the subjects that you can easily learn about from traditional information sources. These sources include travel agents, official national tourist offices, home sports and hobby associations, guidebooks, travel magazines, Sunday travel sections in major newspapers, TV shows, and other info.
Museums
There must be a thousand museums in Europe. Though we usually think of museums as art museums, there are scores of other types featuring everything from warfare to windmills to wine making. In a very few museums, e.g. those in castles, entry is only allowed in the company of a museum guide. You might have to wait a few minutes for enough English-speaking people to show up and make it worth their while to walk the tour.
Typically museums are closed one day a week to allow the staff time to dust off the artifacts. Then the rush is on at other museums and sights. For example, the Museum d'Orsay is closed on Monday and the Louvre is closed on Tuesday. Therefore, wait until Thursday to visit a Paris museum unless you like big crowds of tourists.
Most government owned museums allow free admission once a month, or on some other schedule. If you want to save some money do the reseach and find out when the free day is.
Sometimes a surcharge is made if you are bringing in a camera, and sometimes cameras are prohibited. Tripods and flash are always prohibited. Back packs and totes are usually prohibited but can be left in the cloakroom.
Most museums have shops where you can buy posters, postcards, books, jewelry, and other mementos. If there is an entry charge for the museum, you can usually talk your way into the souvenir shop without paying.
War Memorials
I don't go out of my way for memorials to the carnage that engulfed Europe twice in the last century. It seems so senseless that millions of people died so horribly. But I have come upon some cemeteries and war museums in my travels so I stopped to have a look. There is a massive memorial to the American Army in Belgium that gripped me for hours. The American Cemetery and Memorial in Cambridge, England is impressive. The Eagle, a pub in Cambridge, was the hangout for many American and RAF pilots who left their marks on the ceiling.
Cathedrals and Mosques
The many ancient cathedrals are main attractions throughout Europe. The architecture and engineering that went into these structures is overwhelming. You might say that these were the first skyscrapers. There is rarely an entry fee though a donation basket is usually conspicuous near the door.
All of these churches are still in use as houses of worship. Use discretion when taking photos and talking even if there is no sign advising of a service in progress. Many tourists visit to pray, and you will occasionally walk in during a service. I had an interesting time in a Kiev church when I walked in during a multiple wedding ceremony. You are welcome to visit the mosques in Istanbul. Women are admitted, though everybody must leave their shoes at the door to walk on the carpets inside.
A lot of people are buried in those cathedrals, in crypts along the sides and under the stone markers near the altars. The kings usually get the best positions. In English churches, you can often buy materials on the spot to make brass rubbings of the inscriptions.
Castles
Some former houses of royalty are open to visitors. These may be empty shells or fully furnished, or converted for use as museums, hotels, or restaurants. The famous Schlösser along the Rhine are only a fraction of the possibilities in Germany. The chateaux in the Loire Valley of France are also major tourist attractions. The most spectacular castle I have seen is at Sintra, Portugal. It's the kind of place you envision a castle should be, and it is fully furnished. The king had a short bed. Other tourists in the group I was with dwelled over the queen's commode.
In the same breath you can regard the walled towns of Europe. Most cities have torn down the ramparts, or invading armies did it for them. One of the most famous and beautiful of the survivors is Brugge, Belgium, though it is extremely touristy. Rothenburg, Germany is the same. I have stumbled upon several walled towns in France which have not exploited their unique features. In other words, there were no crowds of tourists when I arrived. There are scores of others scattered about, usually on top of a hill with very steep sides.
Language Lessons
This is a very interesting way to spend a month or a few in Europe. Sign up for language lessons at a university or institute in any of dozens of cities. Rent a room or an apartment and live in the local economy. I've taken lessons in Holland and Germany while working there, and have taken French lessons on a do-it-myself basis. I signed up for the Alliance Française twice, learned a lot of French, enjoyed Paris, and met my ex-wife there. Our daughter went a couple of decades later. Stephanie also spent six weeks studying Spanish at the Universidad de Salamanca. See more information in chapter 26, Languages, Numbers, Alphabets: Encounter The Tower of Babel in Europe.
Sports & Games
The common denominator in Europe is soccer, generating more interest and fervor than American baseball and football combined. Primarily of British interest is rugby, an amazing bone-crunching game using a ball similar to our football, but the players wear no helmets or body armor.
The familiar American pastimes of golf, tennis, and bowling are found, but on a limited basis to travelers. These are usually private club sports, or require reservations well in advance if open to the public. It is best to know somebody and get invited if you wish to play, or make arrangements through your travel agent before leaving home.
Ice skating and skiing are national pastimes in the colder locales during the winter. Ice skating is very democratic. Just find a frozen pond or river, or pay hourly at an ice rink. Hockey is big in the north. Skiing of course requires mountains. Scandinavia and the Alpine regions of France, Germany, Italy, Switzerland, and Austria feature hundreds of slopes. Affluent Europeans put the rush on the good spots so plan and reserve early. The cold climates also feature toboggan racing, curling, and other frozen water events. Nonathletic types can build a snowman or snowwoman, or enjoy the fireplace in a cozy mountain chalet.
Summer events which are internationally publicized are the Grand Prix and numerous other auto races. Bicycle races are held throughout Europe, the most famous being the Tour de France every July.
I am a casual bike rider and there is no better place for it than Holland. There are bicycle paths with their own street signals throughout the country. We also enjoyed bicycling along the Main River in Germany.
There are horses for hire at a few stables, but no welcome for cowboy riders. Saddles, stirrups, and horse training are strictly English style. There is a horse in Holland who was happy when I got off, I'm sure.
Boating, sailing, and water skiing are popular along all the coastal areas and inland waterways of Europe. Sailboats, cats, and power boats can be rented or chartered in most ports and resort areas by the hour, day, or week. The Atlantic coast of southern France sports enough waves for surfing. I enjoyed an afternoon of body surfing at Biaritz. Wind surfing is popular where nature provides no waves.
Fishermen and hunters can have a go at it. You will need a license. In Germany you must take fishing lessons in order to get a license.
Additional activities for participation or viewing are handball, field hockey, and canal jumping (Dutch amusement). The Dutch are also into baseball. It's called honkbal in Holland. Nearly every account I've ever read or watched says that bullfighting is bad. I saw an afternoon of it in southern France and it was OK by me. They are going to keep doing it whether you watch it or not so why not enjoy a day in the stadium?
Backgammon, bridge, checkers, and chess have millions of ardent players in Europe. Expect an intense win or die effort. Locals love to beat Americans. Billiards has a cult following, and championship matches are broadcast on TV. These games and others are often played in bars or cafes. If you get involved, check the local rules of play before making any wagers on your skill. Game rules are sometimes different over there.
Cafe Sitting
This often promoted traveler's sport is as good as they say it is. In most of the countries of Europe, cafe owners put up tables and chairs on sidewalks and in the streets during good weather. And in many cities, the cafe owner has glassed in a good piece of the sidewalk so that he doesn't depend on the weather. It seems to be the inverse of eminent domain.
Before sitting, make sure that a pigeon has not made a deposit, then relax and let yourself be amused. The waiter will arrive before dusk. Beer, wine, coffee, tea, or mineral water generally cost about $5, maybe more depending on the exchange rate. Getting a second one is usually more difficult than the first. Stand at the bar inside to save money on beverages. Table service on the sidewalk costs more.
Entertainment varies from zero to plenty. In a good location you will have a constant parade of local citizens going about their business, other tourists looking as uncertain as you about whether or not to sit down, and assorted entertainers with fifteen minute repertoires after which they pass the hat and leave the sidewalk stage to the next busker, troubadour, mime, or magician. You'll love it!
The ambiance of Paris must force creative types to let it all out, and it needn't be at a cafe. In riding the Metro, you'll often see soloists or five-piece string groups board, blast away, pass the hat, and split at the next stop. Alas, the good old days of this unique form of entertainment may be ebbing. Signs in the Metro stations now say "For your tranquility, entertainment and passing the hat are forbidden in the Metro cars. Please do not encourage it." (free translation from le Français). Metro access tunnels are favorite habitats for violinists and flutists. The echo chamber is real. But the city has imposed new restrictions. Musicians must have a permit to play, and they must audition to receive one of the few hundred available permits. I recently watched a group of opera quality.
In the evening, Paris streets come alive with some pretty unusual stuff. I have seen 15-piece brass bands in the Montparnasse area. And the winner of them all was a rat circus in which two very normal young men had a dozen huge rats climbing ladders, walking the high wire, jumping through burning hoops, and all manner of other acts on a Paris sidewalk! The price is only what you want to toss in the hat.
There is more to life than Paris. In many German cities, the Altstadt (Old Town) features outdoor cafe sitting and street entertainment. The relaxing atmosphere of a German beer garden on a warm afternoon is all the more pleasant because local citizens often want to practice their English, as opposed to Paris. Stores close in mid afternoon on Saturdays in Germany so you have plenty of time to get revved up for Saturday night.
Shopping
Although some points on shopping were discussed in chapter 23, Shopping in Europe: Souvenirs, Gifts, and Stuff You Can't Live Without, do not overlook its recreational value. The central shopping streets in many cities of Europe are forbidden to automobiles. Window shopping after dark is excellent because most of the stores have lighted window displays, and the crowds are all at home watching an American movie on TV. For inside browsing, mornings are best. In some countries, impatient salespeople are on your heels and expect you to buy the first one of anything you look at. If you don't buy, you are slammed out the door. Conversely, in other countries you won't be noticed unless you scream.
If you are looking for a special item, get an authoritative translation of its name, an illustration, and/or a description of its features in the local language. Then go for it. Many items are not displayed. Sales people must rummage through drawers for things like shoe polish in the shoe stores.
In Istanbul, go to the amazing Grand Bazaar and shop for Turkish carpets, leather goods, and dust collectors. Haggle, haggle, haggle, and keep on haggling.
While sport shopping, don't forget houses, apartments, and automobiles. Walk into showrooms and real estate agencies and start chatting. It helps to be well dressed. You will be amazed at the features, size, and cost of living quarters, and you will be glad that your grandfather or great-grandfather got off his duff and emigrated to America.
Beaches
Public swimming and sunbathing beaches are spread along coasts throughout Europe. Most are sand, though you will sometimes find a stony place like Nice, France. Inland lakes and rivers usually have grass banks. Beaches are popular, so if it is a warm Sunday, arrive early if you have a car to park.
Resort beaches often have cafes and bars right on the sand. These cafes rent beach chairs by the half day. Just sit in one and sooner or later some fellow will be around to collect a fee in local currency. He can bring you a beer or sandwich or you can walk inside to order it, or you can bring your own picnic.
A nice feature of beaches is that Europeans wear considerably less on the sand than Americans. A large number of girls in Europe wear nothing above the navel, and almost nothing on the derriere. Topless with a thong is standard wear on some beaches, or at most only the bottom half of a bikini. Also, you can strip and go skinny dipping at one of the hundreds of nude beaches throughout Europe. Nudism is called naturism in Europe and nudists are naturists.
In discussing beaches, Zandvoort is one which is overlooked by virtually every guidebook but which is most enjoyable. You might be lolling around Amsterdam on a warm sunny Sunday when you notice that the town is virtually deserted. Most likely everybody went to the beach at Zandvoort aan Zee, and so should you. There is a train every half hour from the Amsterdam Central Station which arrives at Zandvoort in 30 minutes. Walk out the front door of the station, go straight ahead two blocks and you're splashing in the North Sea. The water will be warmer than the water off southern California thanks to the Gulf Stream. Turn left (that's south) and walk the length of the town, about one mile. Along the whole beach from the station, "club" cafes and traveling wagons are selling good Dutch beer, herring (haring), and other delicacies. Sailing cats and wind surfers are available for rent. The beach and water will be packed with Dutch and German people, at ease.
Actually, in the summer you're likely to find more Dutch and other northern Europeans on the beaches of France, Spain, Greece, and Italy. In fact, you're likely to find too many and they already had all the hotels, pensions, and campgrounds at the popular places booked solid months ago. Do as the Europeans do — book early.
Music
Music lovers will have no end of things to do in Europe. You have your choice almost everywhere. Major cities have opera houses, though performances do not coincide with the summer tourist season. A visit in fall or winter is necessary. But summer is the time for free open air jazz and rock n' roll in the streets and band shells throughout Europe, with beer and wine going down the gullet of everybody in sight. You'll love it.
The Rome Opera House has many performances every year. Here is a poster for La Traviata by Giuseppe Verdi. It would be a good idea to read the story line before attending, unless you are fluent in Italian. [Photo by Stephanie.]
Jazz bars are popular, friendly, very down-home, and drink prices are reasonable. There is sometimes an admission charge, but usually the jazz bars are the best free entertainment in town. Almost all the music is from America, and some of the entertainers are American expatriates. If you can rumble a keyboard, you might think about living off the land as you travel. When you are in a hot place, ask if you can do a few "guest numbers" and try to work your way into something. The worst they can do is say "No" and you've survived that word before.
Popular musical groups tour during the summer. If you have the chance, attend one of these concerts for a look at the young life. At an outdoor performance of the "Eagles" in Stockholm a number of years ago, I saw what must have been half of the teenage population of Sweden.
Festivals and Carnivals
One of the biggest parties in the world takes place in Munich, Germany for two weeks every September — the famous Oktoberfest. It is truly an amazement, but it isn't the only party. There are hundreds of lesser ones scattered throughout Europe. Many of these celebrate the harvest of the grape. It would appear that they often drink most of the crop straight away and have nothing left to export. For a darn good time, drop by and help them taste the beverages at any German wine festival. The French are more subdued, even drinking the raisin juice.
Carnaval or Carnival is the same as Mardi Gras. Revelry and ridiculous parades occupy the residents and visitors of some cities from Friday to the Tuesday before Ash Wednesday. I was on duty in Maastricht, The Netherlands, for several days of Carnaval some years ago. The costumes and unbridled behavior of the citizen actors are unbelievable. The memories will keep you laughing for decades.
Bar none, my favorite party is Koninginnedag (Queen's Day) in Amsterdam on April 30 every year. It seems like the entire country comes to town to drain the breweries and/or sell the family junque. The streets are mobbed curb to curb. It is just unbelievable that a major city can turn into such debauchery for an entire day. Unfortunately the weather is highly variable at the end of April in Holland. Sometimes you'll have a beautiful sunny day and within 24 hours a wicked storm will come in off the North Sea.
Amusement Parks
Some major cities have amusement parks and zoos. For many years probably the most famous of the amusement parks was Tivoli Garden in Copenhagen. This is open during the summer, and is definitely worth a day and evening visit. Started in 1843 on the outskirts of the city, Tivoli is surrounded by city now, and the train station is across the street. You'll be reminded of Disneyland when in Tivoli, and it would appear that Walt Disney was inspired by some of what he must have seen there. The admission fee to Tivoli is much less than for Disneyland.
Speaking of Disney, EuroDisney opened near Paris in 1993. There was great hoopla and great moola, except the moola went the wrong way. The park was rejected by the French en masse and was a disaster for the investors, ranking up there with government projects. EuroDisney lost about $1 billion before starting to earn some of it back. Disney sold half of their stake to a bank in Saudi Arabia to cut losses and then renamed it Disneyland Paris to further insult the French. I guess that the word hubris was invented to describe such behavior. Mouse brain at work.
You'll find much more reasonably priced amusement centers set up in many cities as part of their annual fair. These are usually summer events and are a lot of fun, especially for the children. As you travel keep your eye out for posters advertising these mini carnivals and circuses. If you see a ferris wheel in the distance you'll know what's happening.
Movies
Movies are very, very popular in Europe. Most American movies appear in Europe shortly after they open in the United States, sometimes at the same time. The local language is usually dubbed in. But in Holland, Portugal, Greece, and Scandinavia you'll probably hear the original sound track and see a subtitle with the local translation. Check with the box office before entering. Simply ask the ticket seller or another customer in line if the sound track is in English.
Breweries & Wineries
Breweries throughout Europe welcome visitors. Some of the famous and not-so-famous Danish, Dutch, Irish, and German breweries will admit you, normally for a small fee, and give you a tasting and snacks at the end of the tour. Sometimes the original brewery has been converted into a museum, but the suds are still available.
Wineries are different. They are smaller and have different market. They might not appear so hospitable but you will be warmly welcomed as a customer. When we lived in Germany we drove over to France about every six months, bought the ruby liquid en vrac (10 to 30 liter plastic barrels), loaded up the trunk of the car with as much as 120 liters, and then drove home where I bottled it in our cellar. You can also buy it bottled and bring it home to the USA, up to the limits of your home state alcoholic beverage rules. Our trips were to Burgundy, the area in the environs of Dijon. In Beaune and the surrounding villages and countryside you can find scores of Caves de Degustation where you taste the beverage before buying. This is a nice way to really experience the ambiance of France and come home with delicious souvenirs, while extending your life span according to the latest medical research. But don't overdo it or you are in line for an early trip to the morgue. When in Dijon we also bought the mustard, decidedly sharper than the stuff made in Connecticut under the same name.
For information on a wide variety of wineries, consult The Winetasters Guide to Europe by Anthony Hogg.
WHERE IS ACTION CENTRAL?
Up to here, this chapter has focused on the mild side, except for that mustard. What do you do after dinner in Europe? Hit the sack? How about hitting the wild side first?
Traditional Cafes
I experienced Europe first as a single man in the 1970s and 1980s. The "bar scene" over there is not exactly what you have in the USA. In general, it is a relaxing socializing atmosphere. Serious talk predominates over "game playing." Our games were backgammon and liar's dice. Solo girls could walk into a cafe and order a drink without stigma, though they would certainly get attention proportional to their appearance. Cafes were the social center of Dutch life. TV broadcasting started at about 6:30pm and went off the air at about 11:00pm. Then I would usually put on my shoes and go over to my favorite cafe, call it a pub. So did a bunch of others. Even though TV is on 24 hours now, the old traditions continue. Many Dutch, and I suppose people in other countries, consider a few neighborhood cafes as extensions of their home. I see regulars in the places I visit every time. The atmosphere has not changed much, nor have the hangings on the wall, in the 30 years I have known Holland. Some of those cafes have been there for hundreds of years.
The European Bar Scene
In the gamut of establishments from dope dens to luxurious piano bars throughout Europe, I prefer the stand-up talking bars when I can find them. These places generally have enough chairs for less than 1/3 of the clients, enough stand up floor space for another 1/3, and the last 1/3 have their head in somebody else's armpit. Finding these places is not easy, especially when you're traveling and still having trouble finding your own hotel after three days in town. One thing certain is that the good spots do not advertise because they are so busy that it's almost impossible to get in, especially on Friday night. With a lack of fire marshals, they usually allow anyone in who can get through the jovial mob.
These places are not well staffed behind the bar, and you may get pretty thirsty before being served on a busy night. The bartender will serve his familiar patrons (standing behind you) and may completely ignore you. But be patient, wave your hand, and yell, "Hello!" One or two nights of practice and you'll get the hang of it.
I didn't find most of my favorite places, I was led to them. And of those that I did find, virtually all were stumbled upon by pure accident. A few features common to popular places, are: steamed up windows, too many cars and/or bicycles parked on the street and sidewalk, taxis standing around, light-headed wobbly people walking out, loud laughter, a din of voices, and cheap drinks. People like cheap drinks.
For first time visitors to Europe, a good place to start, and to finish it all, is Amsterdam. The often mentioned Leidseplein is a favorite of the Dutch and tourists alike. In addition to the bars (some with outdoor seating) at the Leidseplein, the whole area is peppered with restaurants and cafes. The Dutch love to practice their English and buy a beer for a "Yank," so it is very easy to get acquainted and find leaders to other cozy places. Most bars in Holland are open until 2 am. After that it is disco fever till dawn.
Almost every city and town in Holland, England, Ireland, Germany, Switzerland, Austria, and the Czech Republic has similar establishments serving brew, food, and good times. In Germany, the Altstadt revelry starts early on Saturday since stores close at 2 pm (except for the first Saturday of each month).
In Spain drinking is nice and inexpensive. Many bars serve tapas — saucers of olives, cakes, seafood, and other nice munchies with the drink in mid afternoon and early evening. The Madrid tourist office has a convenient guide map to these tapas bars.
Beverage Budget
What you drink can have a big influence on your budget.
In general, Europeans drink beer. Even the French drink beer, but the Italians are big on wine. Beer is cheap, except in Scandinavia.
A shot of locally distilled spirits in an average cafe is usually about the same price as a local beer. Prices increase dramatically for foreign distilled spirits so it is far cheaper to drink the local firewater, especially in the eastern countries. Distilled spirits are often dispensed in 2 cl or 4 cl amounts from special measuring cups on the bottle, or in equivalent amounts expressed in grams. Except in Spain, do not expect a generous splash from a friendly bartender.
Carbonated drinks and fruit juices in abbreviated bottles can be had almost everywhere. Soft drinks usually cost more than beer. If you are traveling with a child you can save money if you carry a few of his/her favorite beverages that you bought in a grocery store.
Measure and Head
Beer drinkers should not expect the "American pour" — down the side of the glass to minimize the head. In Holland, they pour a tall head, let it settle a minute and top it off. Then a plastic knife is used to shear off the head at the brim. In Germany, "pilsner" takes 7 minutes to pour in successive draws, each one after the head has settled a bit. If you order "export" you get immediate service without the seven minute ritual.
The normal glass of beer in Europe is 25 cls, equal to about 8 ounces. You can also find it poured as 33 cls equal to 11 ounces and 50 cls equal to about 17 ounces. In Finland, beer is dispensed in automats at the bar giving exactly one half liter. In Greece it is poured as 500 grams and 330 grams, roughly equal to 50 cls and 33 cls. In Britain and Ireland it is poured by the pint, the Imperial pint that is. One pint over there is about 19 ounces. See chapter 27, Europe's Metric System: Travel with Grams, Meters, Liters, and Celsius, for everything you need to know about how stuff is measured in Europe.
As in America, if you call your brand to a waitress you can expect to be cheated with inferior goods many times. If you insist on a certain brand, sit at or near the bar so you can see what is being poured.
Discos
Live music for dancing is virtually nonexistent in Europe. For years they have been dancing at the discotheque, a French word for "record collection." In some cities they are called "night clubs," sometimes in the local language.
Discos don't get going until after 10 pm and then stay open until 4 or 5 am. They often advertise in the local newspapers and are mentioned in the "This Week in . . ." booklets which are published in the major cities listing current events. Booklets are free at the front desk of the major hotels and in city tourist offices.
Depending on local custom, discos may or may not charge an admission or membership fee. Virtually all have locked front doors, door bell, and peep hole. If they don't like your looks they just don't open the door. In Spain, they leave the front door open, but have two huge doormen collecting an admission fee. This includes one drink. In Holland, the doorman expects a tip on your way out.
Discos are dressy, snobbish, expensive, crowded, and don't seem to attract a very intelligent class of people. Watch out that your drink is not stolen by another patron in the Scandinavian countries. This has happened to me several times in Sweden and Norway where a beer costs about what we would pay for a case at home. Prices of beverages in all night clubs is astronomical. Don't be surprised to pay $15 for a drink. The waitress in a Geneva night club cleaned off my table while I was dancing, including half of a beautiful Monte Cristo cigar. Wait staff are not the "A" students.
Casinos
Casinos are scattered throughout Europe in the haunts of the wealthy and idle. None of the European casinos compare in glitter and glitz to Las Vegas. The typical European casino is sedate and quiet. Some have a strict dress code requiring jacket and tie or turtleneck, and evening dress for ladies. You will need your passport when entering and normally must pay an admission charge. Roulette, 30/40, blackjack, and baccarat are usually the only games on the tables.
Estoril, Portugal claims to have the largest casino in Europe. You must decide on entering this one whether you want to play bingo, slot machines, or the gaming tables. For a nominal charge I was admitted to a large hall with roulette, french bank, and blackjack.
Holland has casinos scattered around the country. Their first one was a cozy little place in Zandvoort in the 70s. They also have one in Schiphol, Amsterdam's international airport. If you have a layover you can play the machine games. Casinos are scattered throughout Germany, generally in places whose names start with Bad (that's German for "bath"). The most famous is in Baden-Baden, a beautiful little city in the Black Forest. France has casinos in Nice and a number of other resort areas.
Note that game rules vary and are not the same as those you may be familiar with. Get the brochure detailing local game rules before you start putting your money down.
In major cities of Spain and Holland, slot machine parlors have been established. You'll also find slot machines, black jack, and roulette on some international ferries. Some of the luxury hotels in Helsinki have a blackjack table in the lobby. Ties go to the dealer.
Have a good trip!
Selections at
Travel guide books.
Michelin Green Guide Netherlands, 5e
HollandFodor's
The Netherlands Lonely Planet
Germany Baedeker's
Italy Eyewitness Travel Guides
Michelin produces superior maps for nearly every place in Europe.
Michelin Maps
London
Paris
Rome
Madrid
Lisbon
Brussels
Berlin
Netherlands Michelin
Amsterdam Pocket Map and Guide Eyewitness Travel Guides
Here is a combo dictionary and phrase book for your first trip to France.
French At a Glance Barron's Educational Series
Spanish/English English/Spanish Larousse Mini Dictionary
Greek Oxford Mini Dictionary
The classic journal of a Brit who moved to southern France.
A Year in Provence
by Peter Mayle
During World War II in Nazi occupied Haarlem, Holland a Dutch Christian family risked everything to save Jews. This is a gripping story.
The Hiding Place
by Corrie Ten Boom
![Michelin Battle of Normandy Map No.102 [Facsimile, Folded Map]](http://www.enjoy-europe.com/images/2067002627.jpg)
Michelin Battle of Normandy Map No.102 [Facsimile, Folded Map]
A Travel Guide to World War II Sites in Italy: Museums, Monuments, and Battlegrounds
The 25 Essential World War II Sites: European Theater: The Ultimate Traveler's Guide to Battlefields, Monuments, and Museums
Fields of War: Fifty Key Battlefields in France and Belgium
A spot-on humorous introduction to Holland.
The Undutchables
by Colin Whiteand Laurie Boucke
A compact guide to the heart of Europe's wine districts.
The Wine Roads of Europe
by Marc and Kim Million
A fascinating peek at a bit of British history.
Treason
Famous English Treason Trials
by Alan Wharam
The story of the first and greatest financial "bubble" in history.
Tulipomania
by Mike Dash
Two that will get you started in Italy.
The Last Italian
by William Murray
Under the Tuscan Sun
by Frances Mayes
Anne Klein Women's Classic Double-Breasted Coat
Clarks Women's Wave.Run Slip-On
Wear a scarf for comfort and style. Nobody will ever suspect that you are an American.
Very soft houndstooth neck scarf. Various colors available
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Amazon pays my site a small commission when you click and order an item, if you put it in your shopping cart within 24 hours based on the cookie they set on your computer. If you don't want to make a quick decision just put it in your shopping cart, think it over, and come back later. The revenue covers the cost of maintaing this web site and keeps it free to users.
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You win we win. Thanks for your support!!
Have a good trip in life,
John Bermont
Note: Italicized notations by the author.
Rolling luggage sure beats lugging a pack on your back.
Travelpro Luggage Maxlite 2 20" Expandable Spinner
Plug adapters are needed throughout Europe. There are at least five models used in different countries.
Note: The highlighted #E number is purely arbitrary. It is meant to help quickly identify products in this advert column when you write in for electrical advice.
See NOTE TO READERS.
This adapter is for the standard grounded plug in France, Germany, and northern Europe. It does not fit in outlets of Italy, Switzerland, Ireland, and Britain.
#E-010
Grounded Universal 2 in 1 Plug Adapter
European Schuko plug.
4.8 mm prongs.
Equivalent to type E and F.
You can use this ungrounded Euro plug in some European countries.
#E-020
Universal 2 in 1 Plug Adapter
Euro Plug
4.0 mm prongs.
Equivalent to type C.
This is a universal plug adapter for the UK and Ireland.
#E-030
AC Adapter Plug for use in England, Scotland, Wales, and Ireland
Equivalent to type G.
Here is the Swiss version.
#E-040
Grounded Universal 2 in 1 Plug Adapter
Type J for Switzerland
Here is the grounded Italian model.
#E-050
Grounded Universal 2 in 1 Plug Adapter
Type L for Italy
A Swiss Army Knife is unquestionably the handiest item a traveler can carry, except not on a plane.
Victorinox Swiss Army Huntsman II Knife
To help find your way on the winding and poorly posted roads of Europe. It works for civilian travelers also.
Lensatic Military Marching Compass
This is one of my favorite books. Ernest Hemingway writes about his life in Paris. I lived there about 50 years later.
A Moveable Feast
Ernest Hemingway
An RFID blocking wallet protects your passport and credit cards from identity theft in public places.
Travelon RFID Blocking Passport Case
This is my book, available at Amazon.com. The last edition was published in 2003. Critical up-dates are on this web site.
How To EuropeThe Complete
Travelers Handbook
by John Bermont
The best travel guide to all of Europe.
Europe on a ShoestringLonely Planet
A comprehensive guide to 3,000 hotels and restaurants in 44 major cities throughout Europe, in English. Separate books in the Michelin Red series cover individual countries in greater detail. This is a must have for frequent travelers.
Main Cities of Europe 2015Michelin Guide
This little booklet is my favorite map of Paris.
Michelin Paris Pocket Atlas (by Arrondissements) Map No. 16
A pocket map of Amsterdam that won't get soggy in the drizzle.
Streetwise Amsterdam Map - Laminated City Center Street Map of Amsterdam, Netherlands
Here is the heart of London, a very big city.
Lonely Planet London City Map