Driving in Europe
Car, Van, or Motorcycle

Chapter 18 of
HOW TO EUROPE
The Complete Travelers Handbook
Internet edition. By John Bermont.
Photos by the author except as noted.

A page from enjoy-europe.com
with photographer and author John Bermont.

Drive it or park it, if you can find a parking space.

RENT A CAR OR TAKE THE TRAIN

I love the trains of Europe. If you are visiting the major cities of Europe there is no other rational or more pleasant way of getting from the center of one to the center of another, unless there is a big body of water between them. Then you take a ferry, another utterly enjoyable experience. For an illustrated introduction to trains and ferries see chapter 17, Trains in Europe.

But if you are planning a trip to see the bucolic regions of a country or two, the smart way to go is the good old American way — by car. I have driven throughout much of Europe on various trips — Holland, Germany, France, Italy, Poland, Ukraine, Turkey, Sweden, and at least a half dozen other countries. Having a car is certainly the best way to explore specific regions like Burgundy and Bavaria in depth. Have a plan or amble about the villages and Dorfs, stay in small country gites and Gasthauses, and dine in auberges and Stubes. If you plan some shopping you don't need to worry about carrying your purchases around. I love old and unusual junque from flea markets in Europe and can easily fill a car trunk in a few weeks with new found valuables.

It will be a trip you will never forget. But before you hit the road, get familiar with some of the differences between driving in the USA and driving in Europe. There are plenty of unfamiliar things for the first timer. Your life depends on knowing the basics. And make sure that you have good maps and/or a GPS device.

THE DIFFERENCES

Cost

The biggest difference between driving a car in Europe and driving in the United States is that driving in Europe costs more. The price of automobiles, insurance, gasoline, maintenance, tolls, parking (when available), and violations can be two to three times higher in Europe than at home.

You will probably be renting a car if you wish to drive in Europe. There are a number of auto rental agencies. Special considerations apply in Europe. There are minimum and maximum ages for renting autos. Cars rented in one country may or may not be allowed to enter another country. If you return the car to a location other than the one where you rented it the drop-off charges may be boggling, especially if your drop-off is in another country. Plan ahead.

Almost Everything Else

Other significant differences in Europe include the types of cars in use, roads and road markings, courtesy or lack thereof, speed, and rules of the road, both official and customary.
Driving toward Cambridge, England you see the major difference when driving in the UK. Drive on the left. You are not allowed to turn right at the first intersection due to that round red sign with the white belt. At the second intersection you can turn right to catch the M11 motorway to London or Stansted Airport. Route numbers are given but no distances. [10750RoadToCambridge.jpg]

DRIVER'S LICENSE

Before you can drive in Europe you need a drivers license.

Home State Driver's License

A valid driver's license is required to operate an automobile, motorcycle, or moped in Europe. Your home state driver's license is sufficient in most countries, often up to 180 days. In some countries operation of anything other than a normal sedan requires a special license. For example, you may need a special license to ride a motorcycle in Europe.

International Driving Permit, IDP

It would be a good idea to have an IDP when driving in Europe. It is required in Italy and some other countries. Even if you do not plan to drive in Europe, I recommend an IDP. It is a handy additional piece of identification which can sometimes be left as deposit when renting a bicycle or a deck chair. You don't want to leave your passport.

The IDP is an official document. The US State Department's web site describes it thus:

Although many countries do not recognize U.S. driver's licenses, most countries accept an international driving permit (IDPs). IDPs are honored in more than 150 countries outside the U.S. (See AAA's application form for the list of countries.) They function as an official translation of a U.S. driver's license into 10 foreign languages. These licenses are not intended to replace valid U.S. state licenses and should only be used as a supplement to a valid license. IDPs are not valid in an individual's country of residence. Before departure, you can obtain one from an automobile association authorized by the U.S. Department of State to issue IDPs. Article 24 of the United Nations Convention on Road Traffic (1949) authorizes the U.S. Department of State to empower certain organizations to issue IDPs to those who hold valid U.S. driver's licenses. The Department has designated the American Automobile Association (AAA) and the American Automobile Touring Alliance (AATA) as the only authorized distributors of IDPs.

Here is the cover of an official International Driving Permit. It is a rather plain looking document. The pamphlet is 4"x6" and has 18 pages. Your mug shot and vital stats are on the inside back cover. [IDP005.jpg]

So basically all that the IDP does is translate your driver's license into a bunch of foreign languages and shows what class of vehicle you are authorized to operate. In case of language difficulty with local police the IDP will probably save you some grief. You never know when you are going to be pulled over and you never know the attitude of the cop until it happens. Your home state driver's license is still needed when driving in Europe with the International Driving Permit.

The IDP is sold at offices of the American Automobile Association. Bring one valid driver's license, two passport photos, and $15.00 to an office of the AAA and you'll have an IDP in about ten minutes. Most AAA offices can take your picture if you don't have extra passport photos. The IDP is also available by mail at the AAA web site, AAA/IDP.

When I had a German drivers license, I bought my IDP from the German authorities. It is basically the same piece of paper as issued in the USA.

European Driver's License

For those planning to live overseas, it is a good idea, if not a requirement, to apply for a local driver's license.

I obtained a license in Holland simply by presenting my California drivers license. As long as your home state license is valid, you can obtain a Dutch license without taking expensive lessons and a rigorous test.

Obtaining a driver's license in Germany was not as simple as in Holland. You must make application within a year of taking up residence, and take an eye examination at a regular optometrist's office. They use sophisticated instruments to check your eyes, not one of those simple wall charts. Unfortunately my test resulted in determining that I needed eye glasses. Not for me again, I decided, and talked the doctor into changing the results of the exam based on the fact that I had been partying the night before at local Fasching events and couldn't see straight yet. He bought my story and gave me an OK to drive without glasses. The technician who gave me the test was not happy. She gave me one of those looks. By the way, Fasching is a time when Germans drink and party hard. It's one of the German names for Mardi Gras, known in some countries as Carnival.

"International Driver's License"

There is no such thing as an "International Driver's License" even though you can buy one from fraudulent Internet hucksters at twice the price of a valid IDP. Again I quote from the US State Department web site:

The Department of State is aware that IDPs are being sold over the Internet and in person by persons not authorized by the Department of State pursuant to the requirements of the U.N. Convention of 1949. Moreover, many of these IDPs are being sold for large sums of money, far greater than the sum charged by entities authorized by the Department of State. Consumers experiencing problems should report problems to their local office of the U.S. Postal Inspector, Federal Trade Commission (FTC), the Better Business Bureau, or their state or local Attorney General's Office.

Some of these lying forgers have professional looking web sites with claims of authenticity, even citing the United Nations Convention and showing images of their krap which look like very official documents. They can easily fool you. But go to any office of the American Automobile Association, the AAA, and get your IDP there. Otherwise, if you want to mail your money to a PO Box in Kentucky, go ahead and be a sap. By the way, I have a bridge to sell you. I don't know where it is but I'll get one if you send the money. And a further caution. Amazon.com and Google.com are promoting some of these shysters. Remember there is only one IDP and in the USA you can only get it from the AAA and the AATA.

VEHICLES

There are a number of ways to have a car available in Europe. These are: rent one, lease one, buy a new one, buy a used one, bring one with you, or let your company provide you with one. The choice depends on the length and purpose of your trip, the weight of your wallet, or the attitude of your employer.

European vs. American Cars

European cars are different. They have nothing to compare to the standard home grown Ironmobile with ho-hum automatic transmission and swish-swash suspension.


Here is the midget of cars, the Smart Car, parked in front of a drugstore in La Baule, France. There is about enough room inside for the driver and a sack of groceries. [0770xSmartCarLaBaule.jpg. Photo by Stephanie.]

The typical European car has a tight manual transmission, sports car type steering, and road-wise suspension. A medium size car, both in physical size and in engine performance, used to be the Volkswagon "Beetle." Families of four traveled in what in America was considered the student's car. Even after the end of production, maybe half the cars in Europe are smaller than that little German "rollerskate with headlights," as my neighbor used to refer to my first car, a V-dub. The trend is toward bigger cars, but you'll often see the new Smart Car. The Smart Car is about half the size of anything else.

American cars are rare in Europe. Most American cars in Europe are owned by American servicemen. The rest belong to the well-to-do, to American businessmen, to Swedish teenagers, and to those engaged in shady businesses. They really appear out of place in the narrow streets and abbreviated parking spaces of Europe.

Auto Rental

Auto rental and leasing agencies are located throughout Europe. Advice and assistance on renting a car in Europe are areas where a good travel agent can help. Also consult the AAA and the international car rental companies. Hertz, Avis, National, and Budget maintain offices in the major cities and in some surprising out-of-the-way places. These companies operate under their own name or affiliated company names in Europe. Call one of the majors and request a world-wide directory. These directories list agency locations, car types, rates, taxes, insurance requirements, minimum and maximum age, and other conditions. Look in the TRAVELERS YELLOW PAGES section Auto Rental in Europe for web site URL links.


These auto rental agencies have an office at the Toul, France train station. [7c0004Rent-A-CarToulTrainStation.jpg.]

It's possible to save money by renting from one of the local European car rental companies. Inquire at the national tourist office before departure, or at the local tourist office on arrival. European airlines are also a good source for information on local car rental agencies. And even the European railroads, recognizing their natural limitations, can help you rent a car. The French National Railroad, SNCF, promotes special combination rail/car vacation packages.

At all rental agencies, the style and price range are more varied than in America. Individual agencies rent autos ranging from the cheap and under-powered midget cars to the most expensive Mercedes Benz sedans. Some agencies specialize in Porsches and other high performance sports cars.


Major rent-a-car companies have contact information at the Copenhagen, Denmark train station. There is also a map directing you to the nearest gasoline pump of Statoil. When you return there is a handy key drop box right there on the wall. [P1110172Rent-a-CarCopenhagenTrainStation.jpg.]

Standard transmission is standard. You pay more for an automatic. Air conditioning is getting to be standard, something unheard of just a few years ago. Maybe you'll want to get a car cover if you are traveling around the Mediterranean in the summer. A car cover keeps the car much cooler when parked in the sun.

This may be the first time you have rented in Europe, or the first time that you have rented a European auto with manual transmission. If so get educated in a hurry. Ask the rental agent to show you how to turn on the windshield wipers, the turn signals, the headlights, and cruise control. This is all rudimentary but these features are always different in different models. Another important point is how to get the car into reverse. Unless you are familiar with foreign cars these simple things can plunge you into frustration and evil cussing. You'll also need to know where the gas cap is located and how to open it, and location of the emergency brake, hood latch, and trunk latch.

Generally, you must be at least 21 or 25 to rent a car, and for some expensive models, 30 years old. Some companies also have maximum age limits.
This sub compact parked on a street in Paris, France rented for €5 per day in 2008, with 100 km included. The rate is quite a bit higher as of early 2013. Sixti also rents in 8 other countries. [0553SixtiRentCar.jpg.]

Renting an auto always involves insurance. The collision damage waiver, CDW, is as high or higher in Europe as it is in the USA. For a small car this can double the rental charges. When using major credit cards, this cost is usually paid by the credit card company. However, the collision cost may be covered for only a limited time, say two weeks, and may not cover any vehicle except a standard sedan. Also, some rental agencies in Europe may want to sell you the insurance so bad that they won't accept your refusal to sign off for CDW.

It would be a good idea to carefully read the policy information from your credit card company and bring along a copy stating what is covered and under what conditions. For example, my credit cards specifically do not cover CDW in Italy and Ireland. The reason is the high rate of claims in those countries. The credit card policies generaly have a limit for the length of time you can rent and they cover only sedans, no trucks or fancy stuff.

It has been reported that auto rental companies in Europe are fanatical about dings and nicks. Small stuff can turn into mountains in their eyes. The next time I rent a car in Europe I am going to take a photo of every side and the bumpers so that if I am charged for a dent I will know whether or not it was there when I rented the car, and so will they and so will my credit card company.

Prices and taxes vary between companies and countries. Special deals exist for weekends. You can get weekly or monthly rates, and rates with unlimited "mileage" (kilometers over there). Tax concessions can be had in some countries to bait you in. Look at the total cost of the car, including CDW, personal accident insurance, theft insurance, taxes, and fees. I just priced a tiny car from one of the major auto rental agencies in Holland. The "car" is quoted at $120 per week, but after adding in all that stuff in the last sentence the cost ends up at $500 for the week. Wow! A nice Mercedes will cost about $1,700 per week. Wow! Wow!

Make sure to consider the cost of that other extra when renting an auto. Gasoline is never included in the rental price. This is generally two to three times the cost in the USA, and you know how high that is.

If you have a choice in the matter it would be better to avoid renting a car in Germany and driving it to adjacent countries. The reason is that there is still some bad feeling over WW II. Even though your parents or grandparents may have helped defeat the Nazis, the people in Poland, France, and Holland only see the German auto tags. With German auto tags, I had one bad experience in Holland and a colleague had his windows wantonly busted out in France. I put a USA oval sticker on our car when we made the trip to Istanbul.

Auto Leasing

For extended travels in Europe it may be less expensive and more convenient to lease a car. Lease programs operated by Peugot, Renault, and Citroën have been doing business in France for decades. Cars can be picked up in several dozen cities in France, Belgium, Italy, Holland, and others. You receive a factory fresh new car of your choice. Leasing is practical for those wishing to have a car for at least 17 days and up to about 6 months. Students and those on short term work assignments are eligible for up to 360 days.

Renault's web site advises "Reminder: when comparing our prices to our competitors, keep in mind that the price quoted above includes: unlimited mileage, brand new car, full insurance with no deductible, multi-risk insurance in 32 countries, the exact model you order, no airport service charges, no second driver charges, minimum age 18 years with no upper limit." That is a liberal rental policy.

How do they do that? Technically, so to speak, the lease program is really a purchase and buy back program. You purchase and they buy back. There are tax advantages to the car company granted under French law. This allows them to keep the price much lower than traditional auto rental.

You still must buy your own gasoline and pay tolls and parking fees. Add it all up.

Auto Purchase, New Cars

European cars can be purchased through some car dealers and through specialized agencies in the United States for tourist pickup at the factory or at a dealer near your European destination. In the good old days, you could order a car for foreign delivery, pick it up on arrival, drive through Europe on vacation, and have it shipped home. This can still be done. However, the cost savings are not as great as they once were. And problems, because of the distances, become earthshaking. I know of one man who ordered a luxury German sports car for pickup, but delivery was delayed throughout his six week trip. He had to go back to Europe a couple of months later just to pick it up. And I know of another who ended up with the wrong color because he did not double-check the order. You have to really want those oval plates to go through with it.

If you are considering the purchase of a new European auto, talk to a dealer about his tourist delivery program. You might want to make this part of your European experience. Get references and speak to recent customers to see whether the deals go through smoothly or not. My experience in going to half a dozen auto agencies is that tourist delivery is something that they don't do very often and something that they are not especially interested in doing. That's what you have to watch out for. Disinterest breeds sloppy paperwork and mistakes. Purchase of a car to return it home requires a significant amount of work and hassle. You save the amount of foreign taxes which may easily be consumed by insurance and ocean freight costs. Some states will slap a sales tax on cars which have recently been purchased overseas. Off setting the expenses, you save the cost of renting a car while you are in Europe.

Having said all that, if you want the thrill of driving your new Porsche on the Autobahnen at 120 MPH go for it. European delivery is also available for Mercedes, Volvo, and other performance cars.

Besides the auto companies, a few specialized firms in Europe offer auto purchase services. Some models are available immediately. Inquire about package deals, possibly including insurance, shipping, taxes, customs, and trip planning. The Shipside company near Amsterdam's Shiphol Airport has been selling ready to drive tax-free new models of every make for 50 years. Unfortunately most of their models are European specification. Importing a European spec car to the USA is a nuisance. See the used car section below.

If you are living in Europe and decide to buy a new car, be ready for surprises. Prices of European cars vary considerably. They are almost always cheaper in the country where they are made, but are usually cheaper in America! For instance, my Porsche 911S was priced 20% higher in Holland than what I had paid for it in California, even though Holland borders Germany where the car was made. The equivalent model for sale in Holland had none of California's engine trashing pollution control equipment and did not sail half way around the world, but it did have some exorbitant "accessories" — value added tax (VAT), import duty, and a luxury tax.

Cars in dealer showrooms usually have two prices, the price before taxes and the price including VAT. VAT goes under different names in different countries. It is equivalent to a sales tax but is usually in the range of 15% to 20% and for most goods it is included in the posted price. Tax them to death is the rule in Europe, and dodge the taxes is the most rewarding game in town. In general, you can avoid VAT if you export the vehicle soon after you buy it.

Prices of American cars in Europe are really high, maybe two to three times the price at home. To save, shop in the vicinity of an American army base in Germany. Used car lots remind you of those on the outskirts of your home town.

Auto Purchase, Used Cars

Purchase of a used car in Europe is no less risky than doing the same in America. As always, it is likely that you are buying someone else's problem.

This used car dealer in Haarlem, The Netherlands parks some of his product out on the street. You will probably need an address before you can buy insurance. Te Koop means For Sale. [7c0008AutosTeKoop.jpg.]

If you are buying a European model used car with the intention of shipping it back home, know that modifications are going to be required to meet American safety and pollution control requirements. The price on that Mercedes may look pretty sweet until United States Customs orders you to post bond and have it modified, or else export it or destroy it. Some autos require many more, and more expensive, changes than others. For instance, do not bring a car home that does not have DOT etched on every window. Another big nuisance would be a British car with right hand drive. You can do better. In fact you could hardly do worse. Another problem will probably be insurance. European specification autos may be more expensive to repair and consequently your insurance company may be reluctant to extend coverage. Simple things like tail light covers are often different so importing a replacemnet is very expensive and can take time.

Before shipping a used car home, contact the US Customs Service, the EPA, and the Department of Transportation to find out what officialdom will require of you, your bank account, and your vehicle. You should also contact your state motor vehicle department and local pollution control agency to see what standards the car will have to meet in order to be registered in your state.

To determine used car prices in Europe, locate a copy of a major European city newspaper and check the want ads. Large libraries and some news dealers carry these papers. You can also read the major European newspapers and their classified advertisements on the web. Most have an internet site.

Bring Your Own Car

Nobody except the POTUS would bring their own car to Europe for a short holiday. But if you are relocating for a year or more this may be a very practical and economical thing to do. I did it on my first move to Holland. My experiences are detailed in chapter 22, Moving to Europe: Things to Know Before You Go.
I accepted a job relocation to Haarlem, The Netherlands for two years and shipped my Porsche over from California. I parked it on the bank of the Spaarne River across the street from my apartment (ground floor of the corner house with the big black door) because the landlady would not rent her garage to me. Most things in Europe are negotiable, but she wouldn't budge on that garage. She gave me exclusive use of a new washing machine in compensation. That was a good deal. If you have a car then you should rent an apartment or house with a garage if you can find one. Vandalism is a continuing nuisance throughout Europe. [7x0035PorscheSpaarne.jpg.]

STREETS AND ROADS

Flying Low

Probably the best road in the world is an hour stretch of the E19 through Belgium. It is a straight, flat, wide freeway and completely lighted at night. For real excitement try keeping up with the Fiats on the winding A7 tollway through the mountains of Northern Italy. Sweaty palms, even in my Porsche!!

Expressways

The variety of roads in Europe is greater than in America. There is a superhighway system throughout Europe that is equivalent to our Interstate Highway System. Parts of it, particularly in France, Greece, Spain, and Italy, are tolled. Austria, Switzerland, Slovakia, and some other countries charge an annual fee to use the expressways. You will be required to buy a sticker for your car as you drive into the country. In all other countries it is generally freeway.

This view shows a motorway passing through the city of Belfast, Northern Ireland. Notice that all of the cars are going the wrong way! Traffic travels on the left in Britain and Ireland. At one time this was the rule in Sweden also, but they got smart. [0808BelfastMotorway.jpg.]




Here is the open road in eastern France on an early spring day. Most French expressways are tolled, thus there is very little traffic except when school lets out for the summer and every French family heads south for 6 weeks. [7x0020FrenchHighway.jpg.]



There are no speed limits on most German Autobahnen but that doesn't mean that you will get there faster. This is a stand up traffic jam on the westbound A3 on a sunny summer Sunday just southeast of Frankfurt am Main. [7bw0016A3Autobahn.jpg.]

Secondary Roads

Off the superhighways, road quality drops suddenly to winding, two-lane asphalt paving. There is usually little or no shoulder and the road sometimes narrows to one and a half or even one lane. You might find yourself driving under a haystack in rural areas. Since most of Europe is agricultural, be prepared for livestock and slowly moving produce wagons. In eastern Europe, horse drawn wagons are common on the highways. Sunday afternoon is walking day in rural areas throughout Europe. You may run across (not literally, I hope!) whole families walking abreast on the road.

City Streets

In the cities and towns, anything is possible. Surfaces can be concrete, asphalt, brick, dirt, or tooth rattling cobblestone. There are very few cities with wide boulevards, and not many with a one mile stretch of straight street. Besides having narrow, winding, brick streets, names sometimes change at irregular intervals. A good example is a major ring road in Düsseldorf, Germany. The name changes eight times within one mile.

Good maps are essential. Because of the narrow medieval streets, there are many which are one-way. If you miss a turn, it is difficult to double back. Gothenburg, Sweden reminds me of a whirlpool. Once I get in the center of town, I find it almost impossible to get out.

What is going on here? These drivers did not see or chose to ignore the do not enter sign. They were immediately confronted by bollards, those two pipes sticking up in the street, preventing entry to the city center of Cambridge, England. Only buses and bicycles are allowed. The four drivers are making some sort of U-turn to get out of there. In the background is an open-top tour bus. This cruises the streets and allows hop-offs and hop-ons. One of the stops is the Cambridge American Cemetery and Memorial which is dedicated to American soldiers and airmen who lost their lives in World War II. [10757Cambridge.jpg.]

Some streets are posted to allow entry only for busses, taxis, or local merchants. It's easy to miss these because the sign may be in the local language. They usually have hydraulically operated pipe barriers which rise and lower when an authorized person inserts a special magnetic card in the control mechanism. German cities are almost always in reconstruction with detours galore. These can be extremely frustrating.

The problems of the streets should be added to the problem of parking and then added to the crime problem. Then you come to the conclusion that driving in the cities of Europe is not a good idea. Leave your rental car at the city gates.

ROAD MARKINGS

Route Numbers

There is a definite lack of route signs on the roads. Those roads which are numbered on maps seldom have the numbers posted along the roads. Compass directions, e.g. north and south, are not posted at intersections or expressway exits. To get to where you are going, you often need to know the name of every village or Dorf in between. It's not difficult to get lost.



This sign on an expressway near Milan, Italy shows that small engine mopeds and scooters are prohibited, along with pedestrians and horse drawn wagons. Stopping is not allowed so make sure you have enough gas to get to the next exit. [P1080394ExpresswaySign.jpg.]

Street Signs

In the cities street names are seldom seen on signposts at intersections. The usual practice is to have the street name posted on the corner of a building just above the ground floor. New buildings and redecorated buildings often have no street names posted. Again, it is not difficult to get lost, especially on a rainy night.

Do Not Enter

European road signs are mainly symbolic due to the large number of languages and the great amount of international traffic. These signs are virtually unknown in America, though they are coming into use in some areas and it's easy to learn the most important ones. However, modifiers to the posted regulation, e.g. "Sunday only," are always given in the local language.



The most important street sign is the symbol for DO NOT ENTER — WRONG WAY. It's about 18 inches in diameter with a horizontal white band on a red background. Here is one in Italy with an exception written in Italian. Unless you know Italian just don't go into this street. [2433NoEntry.jpg.]

One Way

One way signs in Europe are usually blue or black with a large white arrow on a horizontal rectangular plate. Inside the arrow is usually the local word(s) for one way, e.g., senso unico in Italy and Einbahnstraße in Germany. One-way signs in Ireland are white round boards with a red border and an arrow pointing up. The ones I saw in England were round blue boards with a white arrow and a sign underneath saying "One Way."



This one way street in Copenhagen, Denmark allows exceptions for bicycles. Keep your eyes open for approaching bikes. [P1110142EnsrettetCopenhagen.]

Stop

Although STOP signs are rare in Europe, they pop up in some unusual places. French speaking locales seem to have the most and they are popping up in eastern Europe. They are also used in Ireland.

Here is one of those rare stop signs, in Riga, Latvia. The sign underneath indicates no standing. [P1160026StopNoStanding.]















A yield sign in London, England with accompanying translation, in English. [10662GiveWay.]




At an intersection in Kiev, Ukraine, I saw the red octagon hanging right up there next to a nondescript sign with the word "stop" in Cyrillic. [7bw0018StopKiev.]

Priority and Yield

Another common sign is the yellow diamond, indicating PRIORITY over the intersecting road. The intersecting road will have an inverted triangle sign, white with a red border, meaning YIELD. If neither road has a sign, the vehicle coming from the right has the right of way.

Unposted intersections are rare in the countryside but common in the cities. Watch out. Europeans, especially taxi drivers, who are making a right turn do not even look for oncoming traffic since they have the right of way at unposted intersections. If they are going straight through, they only look to the right. If they see that a pump on the accelerator will get them into the intersection before another vehicle gets there, they do it. Sometimes it gets interesting. In Amsterdam I heard the standard "whoomp" of an accident and looked over to see one of the cars skidding on its roof.

Speed Limits

Speed limit signs are round. These signs have only a number indicating the speed limit, in kilometers per hour on the Continent. In Britain the number is miles per hour. In Ireland the number has km/h under it. Speed limits within cities are generally 50 kph (30 mph). Speed limits between cities are normally 90 to 110 km per hour (approximately 65 mph) on the major roads. Speed limits on most expressways in Europe are 130 kph (80 mph). In some countries citizens obey absolutely and in others they sing and laugh as they put the pedal to the floor.

Speed limit signs on the Autobahnen (expressways) in Germany are for the most part merely advisory, as you will learn soon after getting on a Autobahn. The legal limit is no limit. My daily drive to work in Germany in a 1.9 liter Opel was normally at 105 mph (170 kilometers per hour) and I was passed often. In the frequent construction zones speeds are severely regulated. Speed limit signs in Germany with the added words bei Näse indicate that the limit applies only when the road is wet.

The speed limit is 20 kilometers per hour on this small street in Paris, France. Helping to enforce it is a sign warning of speed bumps ahead. It is also a one way street except that bicycles are allowed in both directions. [0881Ralentisseurs. Photo by Stephanie.]
















Trucks longer than 10 meters are prohibited on this dead end street in Dresden, Germany. Parking is allowed with a parking voucher. Leave it on the dash board of your car. [P1220370MitParkschein.]

NO

Also round are signs indicating that ENTRY IS PROHIBITED for certain types of vehicles. A silhouette of a car, motorcycle, or truck in the white circle is specific for that type of vehicle. A round sign with two cars, the one on the left being red, means NO PASSING. A round plaque with no picture means NO VEHICLES of any kind may enter.

A round blue sign with the silhouette of pedestrians means that the road or path may be used by PEDESTRIANS ONLY.

Diagonal Line

Any road sign with a diagonal line across it means that that action is prohibited, or that this is the end of the condition. You see this most often on signs with a direction arrow. A sign with the diagonal band means NO LEFT TURN or NO RIGHT TURN depending on which way the arrow is pointing. If there is no diagonal band the sign means that the turn is required.

Hazard

Triangles pointing up warn of SPECIAL ROAD CONDITIONS. They usually show a silhouette of the condition such as curves, skidding auto, running children, crosswalk, overhead clearance, or just a large exclamation mark!



This sign warns of running children near a school in Paris, France. After stopping, the speed limit is 40 km/hr, about 25 MPH. [7c0001StopEcole.jpg.]

Signals

Traffic signals are the same as in America, green for go and red for stop. Signals are normally turned off at 11 PM, or changed to blinking yellows or blinking reds.

In Germany, traffic lights change from red to yellow before going green. As soon as the yellow comes on, everybody shifts into first gear and revs up. When the green comes on, they pop the clutch and move out. Austria has a similar system.

Between stop lights in many German cities, a small lighted number will be seen on a post by the curb. This indicates what maximum speed (in kilometers per hour) you can drive in order to avoid stopping at the next light.

In Holland some traffic lights are synchronized for the maximum speed allowed. This will be posted as Groen Golf (green wave) on a green sign of course. Don't speed and you don't have to stop. I read recently that some American cities have just inaugurated this decades-old traffic system. We're catching up to those clever Dutchies.

Pedestrians

Most intersections with traffic signals also have a pedestrian walk-stop signal. This is normally controlled by a person wishing to cross. The pedestrian pushes a button and waits for the walk signal. Many do not wait. Jaywalking is almost universal in Europe, except in Germany. People obey the law in Deutschland. In other countries it is common to see a brigade of jaywalkers jumping out into the street. The ones at the rear are at risk because drivers are more inclined to honk than slow down.

Pedestrians in some cities are treated to audio versions of walk and don't walk. This is to assist blind persons.

City Center Prohibitions

Many streets in city centers are reserved for local business people, residents, city buses, or pedestrians. To enforce this the entry to the street is always marked as such, in the local language and with standard signs, and is often blocked by a couple of 8" diameter steel posts rising up from the road. Those with permits have a swipe card which lowers the posts momentarily so they can drive through. If you try to sneak through right after someone goes in you might hear a sort of crunching sound as the posts come up under your car. This will be embarrassing and expensive.


Ignorance or disregard of the ZTL sign has cost millions of drivers tons of euros in Italy. This one is in Pisa but similar controlled zones exist in Florence, Milan, and other popular tourist cities. As you can see, Z.T.L. stands for zona traffico limitato, restricted traffic zone. You can NOT drive past this sign. If you break the law a hidden traffic camera will photograph you. The picture is then sent to the car rental agency which tags your credit card for $50 or so for administrative work in providing the municipality with your name and home address. Things move slowly in Italy so it will probably be about six months before you get the ticket and are ordered to pay a few hundred euros. I don't know if they have a way to collect from across the ocean but if you don't pay you will probably stay in their files for a while.

The empty red circle ALWAYS means "do not drive on this street" no matter what. The red circle with the number 30 means that the speed limit, IF you are allowed to drive here, is 30 km/hr, about 18.6 MPH. In most countries the typical 10% American slack is not an option. Stay under the limit. For more about km, kilometers, see chapter 27, The Metric System in Europe. [0031ZTL.jpg. Photo by Stephanie.]

Other cities are also doing this to control traffic in the city center, and to fill the city coffers. If your hotel is in the center of the city it is likely that it is in a restricted driving zone. Contact your hotel to get a temporary pass if possible. Otherwise you may end up paying a few hundred dollars just to get to your room.

DRIVING HABITS AND LAWS

City Driving

There is a myth prevalent in America regarding the difficulty of driving in Paris. Au contraire, I find that driving in Paris is actually sane, almost easy, except for the problem of blocked intersections during rush hours. It is comical.

Amsterdam, though, is a city that will test your command of sailor's English. You must bully and bluff your way through narrow streets jammed with unruly drivers, streetcars, buses, mopeds, bicycles, dogs, and double-parked trucks. And pedestrians should be aware that painted crosswalks in Amsterdam are not safe. Drivers stop for dogs, but humans receive an insulting blast on the horn. The Dutch joke is that a driver turns on his wipers if a pedestrian is crossing the street. That's to wipe the blood off the windshield. Typical Dutch humor, but not far off the mark.

A few cities where it might even be worse than Amsterdam are Lisbon, Rome, Madrid, and Athens. In these cities you'll find massive horn-honking traffic jams as citizens go home for the afternoon lunch and siesta. At times when there is no traffic jam, every driver seems to be racing for the checkered flag.

In the eastern cities, there are not so many autos, yet, and the traffic situation in the cities is moderate.

This is the kind of everlasting traffic jam you will find throughout the center of London, England. The only vehicle moving is that blur of a bicycle. [10248LondonTrafficJam.]


Pedestrian Zones

A large number of cities in Europe have pedestrian zones. It is illegal to drive in these areas. They are usually marked by a round blue sign with a silhouette of an adult holding a child's hand. Sometimes the zone is marked with a sign in the local language. You might see cars and trucks in the pedestrian zone but these have special permits to enter, usually for business deliveries.

Driver Beware

Europeans tend to be fast, aggressive drivers, with the exception of Scandinavians. The Swedes and Finns are the most courteous drivers on either side of the Atlantic. But for the rest, watch out for tailgaters riding in your slipstream and general lack of good sense regarding the margin of error. The Autobahnen have no speed limits. Germans love to drive fast and push those machines to the limit. "Doing 200" (meaning 200 kilometers per hour, equal to 125 mph) is not uncommon. Just keep to the right and stay out of their way. It's their road and they will be happy to remind you with their flashing high beams!


As you get off the ferry in England this sign shows the speed limits and the direction that you must drive — on the left. [7bw0008NationalSpeedLimits.]





As you enter Romania check this sign to find your type of vehicle and the maximum speed in cities and in the countryside. The top speed of 80 km/hr is about 50 MPH. The Romanian language is similar to Italian. [7bw0020RomaniaSpeedLimits.]

Every other country has speed limits on their expressways. The limits are generally 130 kph (80 mph) or less. The limits are pretty much ignored in Italy and on some roads in France. It can cost you dearly if you are caught. A friend told me that he was a passenger in Holland when the driver was stopped by the Rijkspolitie (National Police) driving one of their white Porsche Targa police cars in the good old days. The driver was ordered to pay the equivalent of $480 on the spot or walk home. He paid.

A significant difference between European and American driving is the variation in speeds. On an American road, most drivers will go at approximately the same speed, about 10% above the posted speed limit. Not so in Europe. There are a large number of underpowered small autos in Europe, along with certain very roadworthy sports cars and luxury sedans. An extra danger in rural areas in the east is the number of horse drawn wagons on the highways. You can be on top of these faster than you expect. On our drive through the mountains of Croatia we were often impeded by large logging trucks. You want to pass just to avoid breathing the horrible diesel exhaust fumes but it's very difficult to find a hundred yards of straight road.

This Citroën 2CV ("deux chevaux") in Copenhagen, Denmark is a real economy vehicle. It was made of sheet metal and had a canvas roof. The 33 HP engine certainly wouldn't get you there very fast. [P1120222-2CV.]

In Portugal, they drive fast and recklessly on the mountain roads, and toot the horn at every curve to warn whoever might be coming the other way. At night, many drive with parking lights only, or even no lights.

European trucks do not have the array of night running lights outlining the rig as they do in America. Their rear lights are usually covered with mud. They generally travel slow, especially uphill, so be careful not to run into one at night. Trucks also have a bad habit of quickly changing lanes without warning. Trucks are prohibited from German Autobahnen on Sundays until 10 pm. Get home before those gentlemen start their engines.

Passing

On all roads, it is strictly illegal to pass on the right. If you're accustomed to metropolitan freeways in the USA where you frequently do a right hand pass on those cars poking along in the supposedly fast lane, break the habit or risk your life. Also, it is strictly illegal to drive in the left lane on any expressway except to pass another vehicle. To announce your approach and intention to pass when the left lane is blocked, turn on your left turn signal. If that fails to budge him/her over to the right lane, flash your bright lights, day or night. All Europeans respect the left lane rules except the Dutch, especially those pulling a camper van up hill.

On an expressway in the Netherlands a Dutch highway patrol, Rijkspolitie, has the left lane. This photo is from an earlier day when the police drove Porsche Targas. [7x0033Rijkspolitie.]

The high speed lane would be the right lane in Britain and Ireland. However, as you can see by the photo of the motorway in Belfast above, they drive in whatever lane they want on the islands.

In Sweden the law says that the headlights must be on whenever you are driving. Sweden does not have many miles of expressways but does have super wide roads with heavy duty shoulders. To facilitate passing, Swedes by custom pull over and drive on the shoulder (if it is clear) and let the fast guys have the road. Once a driver pulls over to the shoulder he must stay there until the car behind him passes. So don't pull over unless you can see a long clear stretch of shoulder ahead, and if someone pulls over for you, pass quickly.

Greece has heavy duty shoulders on the tollways. Most people drive with two wheels on the shoulder, leaving plenty of room for others to pass in the driving lane.

The highways in Poland generally have wide shoulders making it relatively easy to pass the horse wagons. In Hungary, there is virtually no shoulder. If the car behind the horse wagon is one of those under-powered commie things and his car is typically full of family and friends, he will be extremely reluctant to pass. A long line can build up and slow you way down.

Police

The German highway patrol is fairly easy to spot in green Opels. In fact, most police vehicles are as easy to spot as at home. Virtually all have large emergency lights mounted on top and have POLIS or POLITIE or some similar word painted in big letters on the side.


In Ireland police are known as GARDA. The driver of this patrol car in Cork found it convenient to park in the pedestrian walk zone. [0466Garda.]

In driving through Poland, one thing that I saw on entering and leaving every village was a blue police car parked by the road with a very watchful officer inside. I assume that they are there to enforce the speed limit of 60 kph through the village since it's very easy to fly right through most of these little towns. You'll also notice that the second largest building in most Polish towns, after the church, is the police station. Police presence is so visible in this country that I came to believe that the word "police" is derived from "Poland."


I got lost in the Old Town of Riga, Latvia looking for a great restaurant where I had eaten the night before, the Lido. This patrol car came by so I waved it down and asked how to find the Lido. The officer thought for a minute and looked around. I guess he couldn't explain it so he said "Get in. We drive you there." On arrival he consented to have his picture taken. Sorry for the red eye caused by my camera flash. [P1170105bPolicemanRiga.]

Sirens

The common American law requiring drivers to pull to the right and stop for all emergency vehicles with siren and lights blazing is rarely followed. In Europe, drivers race ambulances to intersections. Police and fire vehicles generally get equal disrespect. The only countries where I saw some regard for emergency vehicles were Finland and Spain and the eastern countries. Emergency vehicles usually have blue flashing lights and a two-tone wailing siren. Only in Spain do they have the good old American screeching sirens.

Wrong Way

In Britain and Ireland, all drivers drive on the left side of the road. Steering wheels are mounted on the right hand side of the vehicle so that the driver tends to sit in the middle of the road. An American auto would be a bit difficult to drive in Britain or Ireland.

Pedestrians should be especially wary of vehicles approaching from the right. The streets of London are plastered with signs warning "Look Right" and on one-way streets, "Look Left." It's best to look both ways and over both shoulders before crossing. Always use the walk buttons and wait until you get the walk signal. Cars can seemingly come from out of nowhere so don't risk your life jaywalking.

This road sign outside Edinburgh, Scotland shows your options as you enter the round about. Typically these are oriented so that you are driving upward in the diagram and you must turn left, indicated by a break in the road just to the right of the entry point. [0220ScotlandTrafficCircle.]

One for the Road

Drinking and driving is an extremely serious offense in Europe. Every country has strict laws and strict enforcement. You can be stopped without apparent cause at any time and any place. The police will request your personal and automobile documents. At night, the police will willy-nilly stop anyone and everyone and "request" the driver to blow up a balloon for an alcohol test. Although this test should prove positive after the consumption of more than two beers within the last hour, I have seen a couple of cases where it was borderline on more than that and the driver was allowed to drive on to the next tavern.

Radar Traps

Speeding laws are variably enforced. Radar is becoming more generally used. One of the ultimate big brother devices, being used in Holland, Germany, France, and Switzerland particularly, is a combination radar/camera/strobe light set mounted in an unobtrusive, dull green box here and there around the country and in the cities. The Germans move them around a lot and usually have a cop hiding in the bushes to make sure nobody jumps out and steals the radar/camera set.

The radar/camera/strobe device detects and photographs speeders, red light runners, and tailgaters. Via the license plate number, a notice of violation is sent to the owner. The picture is available on request. Formerly the Dutch police would mail the picture with the notice of violation, but, ah, some drivers were photographed with front seat passengers not their spouses, which led to, ahem, some further difficulties when their mates opened the mail. I've been photographed for speeding twice in Germany, but only had one notification mailed to me for payment. Locations of the radar camera boxes are posted on various web sites, in the local language.

Cell Phones

There are about a dozen countries in Europe which strictly prohibit the use of a cell phone while driving a car. In some countries the prohibition applies only to hand-held cell phones. The European countries which restrict or prohibit cell phone use while driving include: Austria, Bosnia-Herzegovina, Croatia, Cyprus, Germany, Holland (The Netherlands), Hungary, Iceland, Poland, Slovak Republic, and Slovenia. This is a fluctuating situation so ask your rental car company about cell phones before driving away.

Road Help

Help on the road is available in Holland from the little yellow Wegenwacht (literally "road watch") cars. These are a service of the ANWB, Dutch auto club. They cruise the major roads helping motorists who have mechanical problems. The German auto club ADAC has similar cruisers on the roads. Members of the AAA are accorded some privileges by the various auto clubs in Europe. Check with your local AAA office before departing.

The Swiss automobile club offers outstanding road service for its members. I was a passenger in a car which caught a stone in the radiator and sprung a leak at midnight Sunday way out in the middle of France. That was the end of driving for the night. The Swiss auto club paid for towing to a local garage, a couple of hotel rooms for the night, a rental car for a week, and then delivery of the repaired car back to Switzerland.

Those planning to live in Europe may want to join one of the national auto clubs. Free maps, trip planning, maintenance assistance, and other services are available to members.

Circles

Rules governing traffic circles are not uniform. Check with a local tourist office to see if the circle or the entering traffic has the right of way. Watch all signs and road markings at circles. The inverted triangle YIELD sign, if present, will indicate whether incoming or circle traffic has the right of way. In addition to a sign the triangles are normally painted on the road way.

On the continent traffic goes counter-clockwise as in the USA. In Britain and Ireland, where the circle is known as a roundabout, traffic goes clockwise, i.e., backwards to us. It scares me even in a taxi. As you approach a roundabout you'll see a diagram of the branches indicating destinations for each branch. The circle will be broken just to the right of the branch you are entering from. This indicates that you can't turn right. Go left only.


Are we there yet? London traffic is as bad as it gets. [10247BoredKid.]

Kids in the Back Seat

Children less than 12 years old must ride in the back seat. In some countries the age limit is 6 or 10. You normally see young men driving around with their wife in the back seat holding the baby. It looks like chauffeur service.

Small children must use a child seat. Very small children must use a booster seat. Ask your car rental agency about local rules and availability of child seats.

PARKING

There are more cars than parking places.


On my first drive to Paris I found PLENTY of parking places — on the Champs-Élysées, the grandest boulevard in the city. In the morning the sanitation crew worked around my little Porsche and I got it out of there before the tow truck was called. [7x0027PorscheTriomphe.]

Here is an alternative parking method as practiced in Paris. Notice the green container in the background. That is for recycling green glass, e.g. wine bottles. Cities throughout Europe have similar containers to encourage recycling. There is another Do Not Enter sign. They are everywhere. [7c0010ParkingParis.]

No Parking

The NO PARKING sign is a blue circular board with a diagonal red band across it. NO STOPPING is a blue circle with two perpendicular diagonal red bands across it — a big red X if you will. Both also have a red border. NO PARKING signs may also be found in the local language posted on gates and garage doors, whether there is a sloped drive at the curb or not. If you see a word like interdit or verboten, find out what it means before you walk away from your car.

Another indication that you are not allowed to park is a large X in the parking place. This is two diagonal lines from corner to corner.


Parking within reach of a No Stopping sign is a favorite European hobby. This Mercedes in Riga, Latvia has a souvenir on his windshield. [P1170078MercedesTicketed.]


You probably don't need to know German to understand what this sign means. Hint: if you park your car in this place in Vienna, Austria it will not be there when you return. [P1090007TowTruck.]

Europeans normally park anyplace they can fit their car. Sidewalks and the middle of streets are used. Cars are often ticketed, but usually not towed unless they are blocking traffic. With American license plates, police would often put a kind notice on my car rather than a ticket. In one case when I went to the Haarlem police station to pay a parking ticket, the official looked at the ticket, looked at me, and asked, "Are you American?" I answered, "Yes." He replied, "American no pay!" and tore up the ticket. However, after having been ticketed a couple of times for parking on the sidewalk in front of my house, the police angrily announced that they would tow my car away the next time. There was no next time.

The German police can be downright nasty. I stood by my doubleparked car waiting for Elizabeth to run into the post office and drop off some letters. An officer walked over and told me to move it. I did, but I got a violation notice in the mail a week later anyway.

The Clamp

The Denver boot is known as "The Clamp" throughout Europe, and the process is called clamping. The Dutch police, unhappy that some German drivers ignore parking meters and violation notices, usually clamp German licensed cars in addition to the ticket. This is an expensive thing to get removed. My car was clamped in Bratislava, Slovakia. Late at night I had inadvertently parked in the space reserved for the Chief of Police, right at the front door of the police station of all places. I discovered the clamp the next morning and asked the hotel to call the police. It would have been a very expensive ticket, equivalent to a few hundred dollars. While the police were removing the clamp, I talked them down to half price, and then kept negotiating and got it down to zero. Our common language was German and it sure paid off for me that day.

The Amsterdam police have a special vehicle full of clamps. The officers cruise the streets and canals looking for parking violators, ticket them, and promptly clamp them. Parking on many streets in Amsterdam is reserved for locals with a permit. If you ever find an empty parking space in Amsterdam read all the signs, if you can read Dutch. [7c0005AmsterdamClamper.]

This warning sign in London, England should be enough to suggest that you park somewhere else. [40336Warning.]

Pay Parking

Metered parking is available on many streets and parking lots in Europe. In Paris, a sign in French announces that you must pay to park on the street. The sign points to an automat where you buy a ticket which you place on your dashboard. Many European cities and parking lots use a similar system. If you don't see parking meters look for an automat somewhere on the lot. Many of these have a photovoltaic panel on top. The panel generates the electricity for the machine.


Here are the instructions for using a parking automat machine in Paris, France. Visitors pay €3 per hour. Residents of zone 8F pay only €0.50 per day. I'd rather spend my money on a beer than parking. [0446ParisParkingVoucherDispenser.]





This sign indicates parking structures in downtown Düsseldorf, Germany with the number of available places in each. [P1100045FreiePlaetzeDuesseldorf.]

Parking structures are becoming common. Look for a rectangular blue sign showing a large white P with a roof over it. In parking structures you often pay at a cashier or automat before going back into the garage to get your car. Then insert the validated card in the exit gate machine while driving out.

Free Parking

In the US, the "blue zone" is reserved for handicapped persons. In Europe the "blue zone" is totally different. It allows limited time free parking on the honor system, for everyone. Zone Blue parking means that you must place a blue card on your dash board and set the pseudo clock face to the time that you arrived. You can then park for free for the time allowed as stated on the street sign. Buy it in a stationary store and use the Blue Zone card in France, Germany, and other countries. Some businesses give them out for free.

When traveling by car, it pays to use the Michelin Red Guides to find hotels and for other travel services. These guides show which city hotels have a garage or off-street parking. Very few do, and those which have it often charge extra. Hotels with garages rarely have enough parking spaces for all the guests. Claim a space early so you don't have to park out on the street. Most of the motels along the highways have free parking and plenty of it.

Bumpered Cars

Finally, in discussing parking, the Paris method comes to mind. It explains the derivation of the word "bumper," as on the front and rear of your car. In the tight parking spaces on the streets of Paris, this method tends to create a larger parking space and helps to minimize the work of turning, backing, and going forward again. Just back in until you hit the car behind you. Then turn in, drive forward and smack the one ahead of you. Turn out, and quickly rip into the car behind you again. Straighten out and inch it forward. If you're going to live in Paris, I recommend a six-year-old never-washed Peugeot. The Paris method is also practiced in Amsterdam, with gusto.

GASOLINE

Tanking up starts with knowing where the gas cap is located on your car, and knowing how to open it. These rudimentary minor items are not standardized in our modern world. To save yourself some potential embarrassment and frustration ask the auto rental company before you drive off.

Also be clear on their gasoline policy, i.e., how much, if any, should be in the tank when you return the car, and how much will it cost you if it is below that level. They may charge you the maximum local price plus a commission plus a service fee to go get the gas.

Cost

Gasoline generally costs 2 to 3 times as much as it does at home, throughout Europe.


Here is the price of gas and diesel in Paris, France, December 2008. The middle price for 95 octane is equivalent to about $5.80 per gallon. At that time the US national average price for regular gas was about $2.30. [0789GasolinePricesDec2008.]

No Gas

They don't call it gas in Europe. It can be called petrol, benzine, benzin, essence, or some other name. Diesel can go by diesel, gasoil, nafta, or some other name.

No Gallons

You can't buy a gallon of gas in Europe. Gas is sold by the liter, spelled litre in some countries. Our gallon is equal to a tad more than four liters. To be more exact, it is 3.785 liters per gallon. You'll see more about the metric system in chapter 27 The Metric System in Europe.

Octane

Both high and low octane are sold. The octane ratings in Europe are slightly less than in America. Although my Porsche ran fine on regular in the USA, I had to use super (the common name for "high octane") in Europe. I used super in my 1.9 liter Opel in Germany also. Just because the gas cap states the minimum octane doesn't mean that you have to use it. I generally use the highest octane to get some extra power out of the engine. This is very useful in passing slower vehicles on some of those winding roads.

Unleaded

Unleaded gas is sold almost everywhere. The German word bleifrei, (lead free) is often used in the east. French for unleaded is sans plomb (without lead).

Service

Many stations are self-serve. Pump your own and go inside to pay. It is becoming more common to be able to insert your credit card at the pump so you don't need to go inside. Some stations allow this even if they are closed. But don't count on being able to use a credit card everywhere for gasoline. Some stations are cash only. Never travel without a few days supply of local cash in your pocket.

Gas stations provide free air and water, and have all the usual items for sale. Maps are expensive. Restrooms are free and are generally cleaner than in America. You can buy booze at gas stations in Britain where you see the "off license" sign.

This gas station near Monza, Italy is closed on Sunday, but it is open if you have a credit card. Use that white box with the CRT monitor. Self serve stations like this are common throughout Italy. Senza Pb means unleaded. [P1080383Italian24HourGasStation.]

Open Hours

A good rule to follow is keep your tank at least half full, especially on Sunday nights. As with most restaurants and shops, gasoline stations are often family businesses. The general practice is that stations in towns have open hours similar to the hours of other businesses. Europe never was like America with a gas station (or two or three) on every corner open until midnight. However, there are a growing number of 24 hour stations, attended and unattended. The 24 hour stations usually have basic provisions like the USA's "7-Eleven" stores.

MAINTENANCE

Dealers and a large number of independent garages service automobiles. Quality of service ranges as widely as it does at home. The biggest difference is cost and how long it will take to get parts and make repairs. My experience in Holland is that it can take months to get simple items from Germany if the dealer does not stock the part.

I drove over to Stuttgart to get the Porsche tuned up at the factory, sort of an aside to a vacation trip to the south of France. I left the car at the factory for two days and enjoyed the tail end of a wine festival and some nice sightseeing while they worked on the motor. Apparently the mechanics had a little too much wine festival themselves because 70 miles south of Stuttgart the engine went dead in a small Dorf. Neither of the garages in the town knew what to do so I had to take a room overnight and call the factory the next morning to get help. After getting the supervisor on the line, I handed the phone to a mechanic, he said "Ja, ja, ja," hung up, took a screwdriver over to the car, adjusted something, and I was on my way. About a year later, shortly after I returned to the USA, the timing chain went kaput and the engine blew up, costing some $4,000 for repairs. So much for German quality.

For my German Opel, my company had leased the car and took care of all maintenance expense. I would just drop it off and the dealer drove me to the office. Pretty simple. However, you just about have to know some German to get special items taken care of. Auto mechanics only speak the native tongue.

Windshields

One surprisingly weak point in older and cheaper European cars is the windshield. Simple tempered glass had been used in some vehicles. In years past I have seen quite a few autos stopped by the side of the road with the windshield shattered and glass chips all over the passengers. If you are buying an older used car in Europe, make sure that it has the sandwich-style windshield (safety glass) which does not shatter. Look for D.O.T. on the glass and read the US Customs brochure on importing a car.

INSURANCE

If you buy a car in Europe or ship your own car over you are going to need insurance. Only a fool would drive in Europe without insurance, and only a clever fool could get away without it for any length of time. Your home state auto insurance does not cover you. You must purchase insurance valid in Europe.

Two Plans

There are two basic types of insurance. The "all-risk" insurance, identified by the green card, protects you against everything. It is required before crossing borders in Europe. The other plan is a limited protection insurance available to residents of each country valid in that country only. But if you have an accident outside that country, expect to be held by the police until you settle up for the damage you caused.

I bought my own insurance when living in Holland. In Germany, my employer provided it. However, they were initially going to provide only the basic service until I requested them to change this to "all risk" insurance. I was driving all over Europe.

Cost

Insurance is very expensive, upwards of double the rates in a large American city. Substantial discounts are available. Your company may be in a group policy arrangement allowing up to a 30% discount. Furthermore, with a good driving record and no claims on your policy at home, you may be eligible for up to 30% off the balance. Bring a copy of your policy, an affidavit from your agent, and a state motor vehicle report of your good driving record as evidence. Thus, it is possible to be insured for about half the going rate.

Where to Buy Insurance

Auto insurance is sold by banks and directly through European insurance companies. If you are purchasing an auto for tourist pick up, insurance is an obligatory part of the deal. You will not be allowed to pick up a car at a dealer or at the port unless you have a green card with you.

CRIMINAL ACTS

Theft and Vandalism

Theft and vandalism against automobiles is a common problem in Europe. The large cities are the worst for it, but it can happen anywhere. In Haarlem, a medium sized city in Holland, my car suffered a stolen antenna, stolen side view mirror, and attempts to pry off the California license plate and the Porsche emblem in various attacks by vandals. In Aschaffenburg, a smaller city in Germany, my antenna was ripped off along with all the others on our street. One night I caught a weirdo trying to get into the car. It's nice to have a garage.


A senseless vandal must have enjoyed defacing the door of this car in Paris, France. [0732Scratch. Photo by Stephanie.]

Defenses

Do not leave anything visible in your car. Do not park it on a dark side street overnight. The vermin hang out in the shadows. Park it on a busy street under a street light. When I drove to Paris I parked on the Champs-Élysée, a couple blocks from the Arc de Triomphe. Don't even leave anything in the trunk. Chances are that other keys fit your trunk. An out-of-country license plate indicates a traveler and tells a thief that there are probably goodies inside. Take everything to your hotel room and leave the thief disappointed.

I used two devices in the car when we made our trip from Germany to and from Istanbul. One was a lock bar connecting the brake pedal to the steering wheel. If someone were to break in and hot wire the engine they would have a nearly impossible job of driving anywhere but in a straight line. The other device was a fake burglar alarm. It was just a little black box with a blinking red LED light that I put into a slot on the dash. It made it look like the car had a burglar alarm at night.

For my Porsche I had the real thing, a full blown howler alarm that was activated by any movement of the car. That could be another car attempting to parallel park in front or in back which nudged mine. Earthquakes in California set it off a couple of times, as did a tow truck which hauled it away once. Then there was the day in Haarlem when some drunken Danes from a tour boat tried to roll my Porsche into the Spaarne River. They could have done it if I hadn't raced across the street to stop them. I warned the captain of the tour boat that I would sink his ship if that ever happened again.

SAFETY AND OTHER GEAR

Standard Items

Use of seat belts is required. Your car should also have some loose items to help in emergencies. These include a red reflecting triangle, towing cable, emergency medical kit, and a fire extinguisher. Several of these items are required by law in some countries. Inquire at the local automobile club or at a police station.

Other Essentials

Always keep a strong beam flashlight in the car. When I drove through the east to Istanbul I also carried a 12 volt air pump for the tires. It came in handy. Several drivers at border crossings wanted to buy it from me when they saw me topping off my tires.

Extra Light Features

Many European cars are equipped with a rear fog light. There is a switch on the dash for this. You'll probably have to look in the owners manual to locate the switch. The fog light is a single bright red light on the left rear. It can be seen from a much greater distance than the normal rear lights. It is also a good idea to use this when there is a light rain because the wheels of your car turn up so much mist that it is hard to see through it. This light cuts through a lot of mist. Another car can give your rear end a bump if you're going too slow and road conditions are poor.

Another auto light feature you might find is a roll switch which will raise or lower the aim of the headlights. Keep the lights pointed down in the city and raise them for country driving. This switch is not the high beam switch. That one turns on the brights as you know, something that you should rarely do.

Compass

As noted above, compass directions are not posted at intersections. For example, in the USA you always see route numbers and "north" or "south" etc., right under the route number sign. You will never see this in Europe. Heck, even route number signs are relatively scarce in Europe. I should never say never since compass directions will eventually be posted, probably. But you know that they will be in the local language. Do you know est from ouest?

Therefore it is a very good idea to have a car compass. The better quality ones have adjustment screws to let you compensate for the metal in the car. All that magnetically inclined steel can affect the operation of a compass considerably. Get one with a night light and mount it on your dash.

Global Positioning System, GPS

The modern day equivalent of a compass is a GPS device. Actually, it is far more powerful than a compass. It tells you exactly where you are and plots your course for you. Officially named Navstar GPS, the main feature is a system of about 30 satelites owned by the US Department of Defense. They broadcast signals which can be picked up by electronic devices which most people just call a GPS. These devices use triangulation and super accurate clocks to determine where on earth the device is and where it is going. Assuming you are holding the device you will never be lost again. That sure takes some of the fun out of life.

Then again a GPS can be fun. On a flight from Minneapolis to Santa Ana the fellow next to me turned on his GPS. It was interesting to track our progress and to know what it was we were flying over.

When renting a car in Europe many people will not drive out of the parking lot without a GPS in their hand. I have never used one but I can assure you that I wish that I had one of these genies on some of my drives. I can read maps and follow signs but Europe is not where those talents are appreciated. If you are out in the boonies you often need a local guide to show you which road to get on and in which direction. A GPS is the closest substitute for a local guide. But neither is foolproof. A map and compass is a recommended back-up combo.



These signs in Nova Milanese, Italy point you in the direction of a half dozen villages and cities, the village center, and a couple of motels. Distance is given but no route numbers. [P1080384ItalianRoadSigns.]


NOTE TO READERS

I welcome questions and comments. If you have any concerns about your trip to Europe that have not been covered well enough in this chapter do not hesitate to write and ask.

My email address is johnbermont@enjoy-europe.com.

When you write please include as much detail as possible. There are about 50 countries in Europe. It will help me answer if you mention the countries and/or cities you plan to visit. I will reply in a day or two.

Don't forget to scroll through the Table of Contents below. The other 29 chapters of HOW TO EUROPE are also available, free to read on line.

For a check-off punchlist of everything go to The Finale, Packing List and Last Call: For Travel In Europe.

If you know of someone else who would appreciate reading this web page please send the URL link to him or her. To easily do that, click your "File" tab in the tool bar and scroll down to "Send" or "Send Link." Your friend will thank you, and I thank you.

To bookmark this page type Ctrl D.